불서속에 표현된 복식의 구조와 형태연구-고려시대를 중심으로

  • 채금석 (국립창원대학교 자연과학대학 의류학과)
  • Published : 1994.11.01

Abstract

This research has been made through analyzing clothes of human dresses and ornaments appeared in the Buddhist pictures which were drawn at the times of the koryo Dynasty. Clothes of the Korea Dynasty could be analyzed as below : First, as for Turban (Doogun), common people used Ogun, Doogun, Byunsangmo and Chaek. For clothes, the style of the era of the ear of the Three-Dynasty. That is , they wore long shirts with narrow sleeves and narrow trousers and skirts. However, around the years of 1320, shirts had no more belt but became to show a kind of ribbon which is called as Gorum , and length of shirts was a bit shortened between hip and waist lines. Second, as for officials clothes, a kind of Rhangkan was used through the Dynasty but after the years of 1300, Wonryukwan was also used. In the clothes, Bangshimkikryung was used and the royals wore full-dress attire which looks like a long gown. Under the full-dress , we can see two different which seems to be a kind of present under-water. Third, in public clothes, same type of Danryung. Holl, belt and shoes were used throughout the Korea Dynasty. In addition Line (Yeon) was remarkably used skirt was dressed under Danryung by middle of the Dynasty the skirt was replaced with trousers. For Bokdoo, Jeonkak bokdoo was mostly used at the beginning of the Dynasty , but in the end of the Dynaty a lowr-flap bokdoo was in the main current. Meanwhile , we can see that the Korea Dynasty had its own in dependence in the clothes although the Dynasty was much affected by the Chines Song Dynasty System. We can hardly find a Mogrian cloethes style in the Korea-Dynasty clothes. Fourth, in Queen's clothes, banbi and pyo were used and sleeves were decorated with birds feather throughout the Dynasty. Lastly , famer's clothes are quite similar to those of the Chinese Song and won Dynasties and a decorative line was used in official clothes. These facts make us have a presumption of our Dongii culture might be conveyed to the Chinese in the ancient times but much more research is needed to clarify.

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