• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.448-458
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• 2010

Kenaf has a rigid and rough touch that inhibits the use of it as a textile material; therefore, this study developed a novel textile material using kenaf. Kenaf and cotton were blended in the ratio of 3:7 and manufactured as 20' spun yarn that was compared to 20's spun yarn made of 100% cotton. Both kenaf/cotton-blended and 100% cotton spun yarn were constructed as plain woven and knitted fabrics. Four kinds of fabrics were prepared as follows. Plain kenaf/cotton-woven fabrics, plain cotton-woven fabrics, kenaf/cotton jersey, and cotton jersey. A cellulase washing process was carried out to reduce the character of kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics, rigid, and rough touch. All fabrics were pretreated with NaOH. NaOH at the concentrations of 0, 0.25, 1.25, and 2.25mol/L, and cellulase at concentrations of 0, 1, 3 and 5g/L were used since the pretreatment of NaOH has a higher efficiency of weight loss than $Na_2CO_3,\;K2CO_3$ and Triton X-100. The ratio of weight loss, tensile strength, stiffness, drape property, and surface appearance were measured in order to evaluate the efficiency of the washing treatment on fabrics. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics exhibited more rigid and rough features than cotton fabrics. A cotton jersey showed significant differences in the degree of stiffness and drape properties. When all fabrics were treated with 1.25mol/L of NaOH and 3g/L of cellulase, kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a higher retention ratio of tensile strength than cotton fabrics after washing despite the increased weight l08s of kenaf-blended fabrics compared to cotton fabrics. The ratio of weight loss for all fabrics was well correlated with flexibility. The washing treatment process made woven fabrics more flexible than knitted fabrics, because the stiffness of woven fabrics made the rubbing actions stronger. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a significantly higher ratio of weight loss and more reduction in stiffness than cotton fabrics after the washing treatment. This might be due to the lack of cohesiveness and easy elimination from fabrics. The drape property of kenaf-blended fabrics was superior to cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.296-305
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• 2006

This study evaluate the effect of laundering on the deformation of knitted spandex/cotton fabrics compared with that of knitted cotton fabrics. Commercial knitted spandex/cotton and knitted cotton fabrics for T-shits were laundered in a drum-type washing machine and dried in a tumble dryer. Wale spirality, shrinkage, elastic recovery and surface contour of knitted fabrics were investigated under different laundering conditions: washing temperature, presoaking time and washing cycles. Knitted spandex/cotton fabrics had a lower angle of spirality than knitted cotton fabrics. After the first washing cycle, the angles of spirality of all the fabrics had decreased greatly. Knitted cotton fabric of low density deformed more than that of higher density. Knitted spandex/cotton. fabric of low density shrank less, because of the greater extension given during heat-set. Permanent elongation length at the 80$\%$ extension was longer than at the 50$\%$ extension, and the knitted spandex/cotton fabric which was expanded greatly during heat-set had a lower elastic recovery rate. The surface appearance of the knitted spandex/cotton fabrics was worsl~ than that of the knitted cotton fabrics before laundering and after repeated laundering, because of the much protruded cotton fibers from the yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.12-16
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• 2000

Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with Parmelia tinctorium that is a kind of lichen. Dyeing solution was prepared by fermentation in aqueous ammonia solution. The effects of pH and temperature in dyebath on dyeability were investigated. The maximum K/S value of each dyed fabrics was showed in 480nm. Silk fabrics showed better dyeability than cotton. Silk fabrics dyed well in acidic or neutral dyebath at $80^\circ{C}$ and cotton fabrics in neutral dyebath at $50^\circ{C}$. Both of silk and cotton fabrics showed poor dyeability in basic dyebath because of colouring anionic groups in lichen. The Munsell values of dyed silk fabrics were appeared in R(red) range, and them of cotton fabrics in YR(yellow-red) range. Light fastnesses of dyed fabrics were as poor as 2 or 2-3 grades. Also, Laundering fastnesses of dyed silk fabrics were as poor as 2 grade and those of cotton fabrics were 3 or 3-4 grades. But dry-cleaning fastnesses of all dyed fabrics were good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.197-205
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• 2007

We investigated the effects of washing on the mechanical properties and hand values of spandex/cotton and cotton single jersey fabrics. These knitted fabrics were subjected to 30 laundering cycles with a drum-type washer and were followed by drying at $65^{\circ}C$ with a tumble dryer. The mechanical properties of the cotton knitted fabrics changed greatly during the first washing and then suffered no further change in their properties as the number of washing cycle increased. However, the properties of the spandex/cotton knitted fabrics changed continuously throughout all the washing cycles. The cotton/spandex knitted fabrics showed higher values in tensile and bending properties than did the cotton knitted fabrics, though both kinds of fabrics showed less difference in shearing, surface and compression properties. The spandex/cotton knitted fabrics which had proper density had a higher THV for winter underwear after 30 repeated washings than did the cotton knitted fabrics, and the THVs of both fabrics decreased with the increase in the number of washing cycles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.13-21
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• 1999

In this study, selected cotton fabrics and polyester/cotton(P/C) blended fabrics are treated with a soluble polyurethane(SPU) and then, printed by heat transfer to determine the effect of SPU treatment on dye uptake of the samples. The results obtained are as follows： 1) In heat transfer, dye-uptake gets higher in Vopotion to temperature and time. The optimum printing temperature and printing time of C.I. Disperse Orange 3 and C.I. Disperse Violet 1 are $200^\circ{C}$ and 50sec. 2) Dye-uptake gets higher according to SPU concentration ; both cotton and P/C fabrics show the highest at $100g/\ell$. 3) In color, as temperature, time and SPU concentration increase, P/C fabrics show more yellowish orange color than cotton fabrics in case of C.I. Disperse Orange 3 and P/C fabrics show more reddish violet color than cotton fabrics in case of C.I. Disperse Violet 1. 4) All fastness of cotton and P/C fabrics treated with SPU are good, but color fastness to washing and water of cotton fabrics treated with SPU are not good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1169-1177
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• 2006

The aim of this study was to investigate the change of the weight loss, tensile strength, flex stiffness, and color-values of the pigment-dyed cotton, polyester/cotton, polyester and nylon fabrics after washing process. Pigment-dyed cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics were treated with the cellulase, of which concentrations were 0, 1, 3 and 5g/l. The time of washing process ranges from 30 to 120 minutes. Pigment-dyed polyester and nylon fabrics were treated without enzyme, of which the washing temperature were 13, 30, $55^{\circ}C$ and the washing time ranges from 30 to 120 minutes. Also, they were tested in terms of the influences of agitation speed(rpm) and additives such as softeners, enzymes, detergents. The weight loss and tensile strength of the pigment-dyed cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics were positively correlated with the concentration of cellulase and washing time. Neither polyester nor nylon fabrics exhibited any change of the weight. All fabrics showed the decline of flex stiffness and decoloration after washing process. Decoloration of cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics was due to both the influence of cellulase and the mechanical rubbing. On the other hand, that of polyester and nylon fabrics was caused by the mechanical rubbing only.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.866-877
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.15-23
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• 2003

Chestnut trees have been used as a dyeing material, which are grow naturally, are cultivated all the area of Korea. So, there is abundant amount of the materials and they have better colorfastness than other natural dyeing materials. But chestnut husk extract is good at silk and wool fabrics, not cotton fabrics. That's why many methods using chestnut extraction for dyeing are being studied. But most of them depend on treatment method with chemical material which doesn't fit with the aim, using natural materials. Therefore in this research, we used protein pre-treatment method which is dyeing chestnut husk extract after treating at cotton fabrics with bean sap. And we studied the effect of dyeability of chestnut husk extract to cotton fabrics. As a result of pre-treatment of bean sap at cotton fabrics, dyeability was increased. Besides laundering fastness, dry cleaning fastness, perspiration fastness and light fastness were almost increased.