• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.494-510
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop unique men's pullovers using the patterns of Baekje tile, brick, and gilt-bronze shoes. As the method of the study, it was reviewed of the literature about Baekje traditional patterns and the knitting techniques. The development of pullover design was used TexPro design CAD program. The manufacture of pullover were knitted by Shima Seiki computerized knitting machines and Brother manual knitting machines. The results of study were as follows. First, the patterns of Baekje tile, brick and gilt-bronze shoes were suited to develop as motif for men's pullover. Second, men's pullover using Baekje traditional patterns were able to maintain the identity of Korean traditional culture and express the originality of design. Third, pullover was chosen three styles and was developed four design. Each pullover design was applied four colorway. Forth, pullover products were made by wool 100% yarn or cotton 47%/acrylic 53% mixed yarn. The patterns were expressed by knitting techniques of floating jacquard and birds-eye jacquard. Luxurious knit fashions were produced. Consequently, through the men's pullover development utilizing Baekje traditional patterns was showed the superiority of the local traditional culture, which is further emphasized by the current globalization. It also confirmed the possibility of the development of high value-added knitted fashion products to meet the needs of modern people to pursue individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.891-900
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• 2001

The purpose of this study were to evaluate the physical properties and dyeability of cellulase and alkali(NaOH, KOH) treated ramie/man-made fiber mixture fabrics. The mixture fabrics were plain weave made by rayon and polyester fiber as warp yarn, and ramie as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength, and water absorbancy were measured for test fabrics. The K/S value of dyed fabrics were calculated using color difference meter. Also colorfastness to washing and sunlight of dyed fabrics were evaluated. The results obtained from this study were as follows: Thickness and weight per unit area of alkali treated two mixture fabrics(rayon/ramie, polyester/ramie) increased compared to those of untreated fabrics, but cellulase treated fabrics did not changed a little. And alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics showed more change than polyester/ramie mixture fabrics on the thickness and weight. Tensile strength and water absorbancy of cellulase treated fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance increased. Crease resistance, tensile strength(warp direction), water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated polyester/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance and tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Tensile strength of KOH treated two mixture fabrics increased compared to that of untreated, but water absorbancy and drape decreased. Total hand of cellulase and alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics was improved compared to untreated. Dyeability of treated mixture fabrics was increased compared to untreated.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.7-19
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• 1997

The purpose of the study was to investigate the shrinkage and creep behavior of PET filaments which were prepared at various spinning speeds(3,300, 4,000, 5,000, 6,000, and 7,000m/min) and anneal($120^{\circ}$, 30min & $150^{\circ}$, 40min). In order to determine the shrinkage and creep behavior with the crystallinity change, PET filaments were treated with low(12$0^{\circ}C$, 30min) and high($150^{\circ}$, 40min) temperature conditions with hot air dryer under the constant tension. The results of the study were as follows: as the spinning speed increased, the degree of shrinkage and elongation of the sample treated by wet condition decreased. The sample with 0.01g/d of load under various spinning speeds showed shrinkage behavior and highest shrinkage ratio at $76^{\circ}$ which was Tg of PET. The degree of shrinkage and elongation of the treated sample was less than those of the untreated sample by wet treatment. Especially, there was less degree of shrinkage and elongation of the sample treated by higher temperature condition. In 3,300m/min of spinning speed the draw ratio of undrawn yarn of a mixture of a-axis orientation and c-axis orientation was 2.0, which is similar to the value of the traditional drawn yarn. Finally, there was a big range of shrinkage and elongation by wet treatment in 3,300 m/min of spinning speed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.121-128
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• 2003

A new textile material, poly(trimethylene terephthalate) polymer, has been introduced to the textile industry. The structure of PTT is similar to the PET, while the tensile deformation and subsequent recovery property is better than that of PET. In this study, the physical and mechanical properties of textile woven fabrics made of PTT, PET, and nylon 6 yarns as the filling yarn were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES), including tensile, bending, shearing, compression, and surface related parameters. On top of these measurements, the subjective ratings by evaluators were performed on the fabric samples. From the examination of the stress-strain behavior of the yarn specimens focused on the recovery mode, it was evident that the PTT specimen developed lower stress at 3% elongation. The subsequent recovery curve showed that the PTT has less stress-decay rate than the other specimens, implying that the recovery behavior of the PTT is recommendable for the end-uses including stretchable textile materials, sports wears, etc. The KES bending rigidity(B) value of the PTT sample fabric was lower than that of the PET sample fabric. Subjective evaluation of the fabric samples by the evaluators on the descriptive word pair "soft - not soft" showed similar tendency with the KES B determination of the fabric samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.105-112
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• 2017

A string wallcovering is a kind of textile wallcovering which is made of cellulose fiber yarn laminated on base paper. Compared with normal paper or PVC wallpaper, a string wallcovering is preferred continually in the interior design market, as it is not only environmentally friendly but it also has less cost on mass production without the weaving process and has a natural visual effect, excellent functionality such as thermo keeping, permeability, sound absorption. However, in the dyeing process, it is not appropriate to use plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals considering the environmental trend and the government policy plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals. Currently, a string wallcovering is made of raw white yarn and padding with direct dye or pigment which includes toxic elements, especially the use of direct dye is restricted in a part of the developed country due to inclusion of azo. In this study, we researched dyeing based on cold pad batch dyeing of a string wallcovering with reactive dyestuff. The peel strength and bending depth test confirmed that the optimum adhesive type and spread amount improved the water resistance of the string wallcovering. Also, pad batch dyeing with optimum reactive dyestuff enhanced the color fastness to light and rubbing in dry and wet conditions. Additionally, for improvement of color fastness to rubbing in a wet condition, the additional treatment finishing without soaping process which is used water. The results of this study can be used as basic data for environmentally friendly and energy saving of the textile wallcovering.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.334-339
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• 2015

Polyketone fiber, a newly developed high strength fiber, has a tenacity and modulus similar to the paramid fiber, and can be used for reinforcing mechanical rubber goods(MRG), such as tires, hoses, and technical textiles. In addition, aliphatic polyketone, which has excellent strength, modulus, chemical stability and reasonable price, is being developed only in South Korea. It will be expected for replacement of super fiber such as aramids and increasing the technical textile market share. This paper surveys the mechanical properties of polyketone fiber yarn for technical textiles. For this purpose, two kinds of yarns are prepared, mechanical properties of coated and uncoated polyketone yarns such as tensile strength, elongation and modulus were examined before and after weather resistance test(temperature $60^{\circ}C$, humidity 60%, amount of power $0.67w/m^2$). The differences of mechanical properties between uncoated and coated yarns for high functional technical textiles and composite materials are estimated through this study.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.22-31
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• 2014

This study investigated the physical properties of warm up yarns and their knitted fabrics including the dye affinity and color fastness to washing of these knitted fabrics according to the various dyeing times and temperatures on dyeing process. The results were summarized as follows. The tenacity of Nylon/PP warm-up yarn was 4g/d and breaking strain was 4.5%. The wet and dry thermal shrinkages were higher than those of PET warm-up yarn. The maximum heat flow rate(Qmax) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was lower than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric and heat keeping rate(a) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was higher as 47% than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric. It was shown that the shape retention and wearing comfort of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric were better than those of PET warm-up knitted fabric. The dye-affinity(K/S) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the dyeing condition of 40minute or 50minute dyeing time with $80^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature, but PET warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the 30minute or 40minute with $110^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature. Finally, the color fastness to washing of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed good value as between 4 and 5 grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.78-86
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• 2009

When scouring and contraction finishing at $90^{\circ}C$ using Relaxer or Rotary Washer contraction and weight loss ratio in warp and weft directions were excellent. Also surface state of fabric after drying or sanding treatment was excellent without crease. Low melting polyester fabric showed a complete melting bond by heat setting(P/S) at above $160^{\circ}C$. The alkali hydrolysis reaction of polyester showed the breakpoint in the weight loss behavior test, polyester yarn showed a breakpoint ranging from 25% to 28%. This is due to the difference of the hydrolysis rate between regular polyester and soluble polyester. Initially the soluble polyester was eluted and micro-fibrillized 5 times faster than a regular polyester. At a later time, a regular polyester was reduced weight to impart a proper flexibility and drape property to the fabric. As a result of surface sanding finishing, the surface of interior fabric showed a surface state most stabilized when using Mesh No. 220 in mono 0.2d after elution finishing. When the rotation direction of sanding roller was pro-, pro-, pro-, and retro-direction, a directional effect of tuft was not shown, a writing effect as suede was exhibited and a surface state was even. Sublimation fastness was 3-4 class for polyester and 2-4 class for nylon. Light fastness 3-4 class after lapse of 100 hours and 2-4 class after lapse of 160 hours. Abrasion fastness was 3-4 class on wet and 4-5 class on dry Laundry fastness was 2-4 class. As such, the abrasion fastness is slightly reduced upon wetting and the use thereof for interior is excellent, whereas laundry fastness is slightly lowered.