• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.106-110
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• 2005

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions on the projectile and air-jet looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of projectile and air-jet looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.772-777
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• 2004

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weaving weft tensions on the 3 types of rapier looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of 3 types of rapier looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권3_4호
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• pp.452-459
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of reference fabric for the tactile sensation of worsted fabrics. As specimens, 32 worsted fabrics for spring/fall suits were selected. A series of subjective evaluation for roughness, harshness, coarseness, smoothness, warmth, bulkiness and softness were performed with 20 trained panels. The panels were selected by the test of consistency and trained for 3 weeks to enhance the reproducibility and consistency. Subjective evaluation was performed using 9 points Semantic Differential Scales with and without reference fabric. Results showed that the sensations were very similar between the results for the test of with or without reference. However the standard deviations of ratings for the with-reference were much less than that of without-reference which means the use of reference fabric can reduce the subjective error or can reduce the number of panels to test.

• 감성과학
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.299-306
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• 2007

본 연구에서는 남성용 소모직물의 품질향상을 위해 국외 유명 브랜드 소모직물의 물성을 분석하고 이를 바탕으로 국내 소모직물을 시생산하여 국외 소모직물과 비교 분석하였다. 분석방법은 의류소재의 객관적인 평가방법인 KES-FB system과 국내 복지 전문가 등에 의해 평가된 주관적인 평가방법인 Blind field test 방법으로 소모직물의 물성을 평가하여 두 측정 방법 간의 결과를 비교해 보고자 한다. 본 연구에서는 이태리와 영국 그리고 국내에서 생산된 7개 품종의 14개 소모직물 시료를 사용하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권7호
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• pp.807-815
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• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.279-284
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• 2010

본 연구는 직물구조 디자인의 데이터 베이스에 대한 기초 연구를 수행한다. 이를 위해서 소모직물과 면직물들의 직물밀도계수가 월츠 교수와 피카놀 회사에서 제안된 커버팩터와 관련시켜 분석되고 토의된다. 또한 소모직물과 면직물의 직물밀도계수와 커버팩터와의 관계가 직물조직과 실의 번수에 따라 분석 토의된다. 끝으로 이들 천연직물들의 염색 가공공정에서의 공정수축률이 직물밀도계수와 함께 직물구조 디자인의 데이터베이스 시스템의 예비 연구로서 분석 토의된다. 그 결과는 소모직물과 면직물의 밀도계수, K 값은 600에서 1000까지 분포하였으며 이들 직물들의 직물밀도계수는 0.4에서 0.8 그리고 0.2에서 1.0의 범위에서 각각 분포하였다. 모직물의 가공축은 2%에서 10% 그리고 면직물의 가공축은 2%에서 20%까지 분포하였다. 그리고 모직물과 면직물의 직물밀도계수는 직물구조디자인에 대한 데이터 베이스의 개념으로서 직기와 직물구조 그리고 직축과 가공축에 따라서 분포됨을 보여주었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.35-46
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• 1989

Experiments described in which cotton fabrics at different stages of chemical processing were abraded to different extents on a Stoll Abrasion Tester with three different abradants, namely, a worsted fabric, flax fabric and silicon carbide paper. The four different plain-weave cotton fabrics selected were 1) desized, 2) scoured and bleached, 3) mercerized, 4) resin-treated. The surface abrasive damages of treated fabrics were observed by SAM, and load-elongation percent retentions of abraded samples were measured by Instrong Tester. The result were as follows: 1. The maximum percent retention of load-elongation with three different abradants was exhibited by the scoured and bleached fabrics and the minimum by the resin finished fabric. 2. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by flax, worsted fabric abradants for 900 rubs showed a large number of criss-crossing stray fibers in fabric structure. It may be the molecular adhesion for frictional resistance to be explained. 3. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by silicone carbide abradants showed the form of busing or mashing fibers in fabric structure. The above might be on the basis of the ploughing theory.