• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.219-234
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• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to conduct research on the degree of satisfaction (for both wearing and functioning) of cycle wear; to present the basic data to develop cycle wears which can lesson the trouble for human body and have an excellent feeling in wearing. To inquire the degree of satisfaction, the method of questionnaire was used for 100 peoples consisted of male cycling players. As the result of the satisfaction degree in wearing, it can be certain that the users are satisfied overall and yet they express the lowest satisfaction at material among material, design, color and function. When it comes to unsatisfactory factors of wearing cycle wear, the most unsatisfactory one is the poor function of clothing on the whole. As the result of the site suitability of cycle wear, we can find the problems on the girth of neck and armhole of the upper garment, and on the part from waist to hip length and the girth from thigh through knee to calf of lower garment. As the result of the motion suitability of cycle wears, we can acknowledge that there are problems on the part of neck, armpit, and abdomen of the upper garment rather than the lower one.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.20-46
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• 2003

This study analyzes the garment decorations in the history of western costume based on their kinds and techniques, and consider the beginning and the development of costume decoration. The purpose is to promote a historical understanding of modern ornamentation. Based on the theoretical background concerning the origin and purpose of costume decoration, its symbolism and its relationship with images, this study classified the techniques and kinds of ornament and considered each costumes by their decoration. 1. The ornament was originated from the primitive custom of coloring the skin for the purpose of protecting the body, symbolizing the tribe, indicating the class, and threatening the enemies. As this custom changed into the decoration on the body as a form of tattoos or physical transformations, the practice of ornament seems to begin as a display of one's authority and wealth as well as a human instinct to decorate oneself beautifully. 2. The basic purpose of ornament is to look attractive by decorating oneself with ornaments. Addition of decorative design to the garment tends to complement the practical aspects of the whole clothing, and elevate its value and originality. 3. From the past, ornament has been used as a symbol of wealth and status. Originated from the desire to display one´s authority and power and to receive respect from others, the people's interest in ornament have rising. 4. The kinds and techniques of ornament can be classified into the structural and applied decorations. The former is decorating a part of a garment, such as the neckline, cellar, cuffs, or pockets. The latter includes braids, laces and embroideries. These ornament are diverse in their details and techniques, and should consider both functional aspects of clothing and its decorative functions emphasizing the aesthetic expressions. In the above considerations, we can see that costume ornament was most splendid in the premodern times and it was the simplest in the ancient times. And we also saw the possibility that decorative techniques could be created almost limitlessly.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1013-1019
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• 2015

As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m²/hr and 450l/m²/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m²/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m²/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.149-161
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to examine the effect of Tencel fabrics on physiological reactions of a human body and thermal comfort under the hot environment. The 3 females subjects in their twenties were selected and a wear sensation test of the subjects was performed with four experimental ensembles made of cotton and Tencel fabrics for the study in the hot environment(3$0^{\circ}C$, 70%RH). The resets of the test were summarized as follows: For the mean skin temperature, Tencel garments showed about 0.2$^{\circ}C$-0.4$^{\circ}C$ lower than that of the cotton garment. The temperature of the rectal was 0.2$^{\circ}C$-0.4$^{\circ}C$ lower for Tencel garments than that for the colon garment. In the form of ensembles, the order of rectal temperature of the subjects for both Tencel and cotton ensembles was 1>IV>III>II. In the body weight loss according to garment materials, Tencel had a lower and more uniform than the cotton Thus, it could concluded that if the perspiration took into account, garments made of Tencel can be more ideal than that of the cotton. The heart rate and oxygen consumption appeared to be proportional to each other. For the heart rate, ensemble TI and TII of Tencel were much lower than ensemble CI and CII. For whole enembles except for TIV, Tencel ensembles showed relatively better thermal sensation and comfort sensation than the cotton ensembles. In the fatigue sensation, the reactions of the subjects were “slightly fatigue” and “fatigue” for the cotton, but “neutral” and “slightly fatigue” for Tencel.

• 복식
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• 제6권
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• pp.105-119
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• 1982

This thesis is mainly about the changes of Garment's collar(옷깃) and outer collar (옷섶) which indicate the identification of dress history. Through the observations of some reports about important folk materials and genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on Yi-Dynasty. (1400-1900) For the shape of the outer lapels(겉깃) of Korean Jacket(저고리) were used together Squar-Tray-Collar(목판깃), Sharped-Collar(칼깃), and Dang ko-Collar(당코깃) and coming to the end of inner lapels(안깃) formed squar-tray-collar. Squar-tray-collar and sharped-collar were mainly used together for the shape of the outer lapels of Korean overcoat(포). Dang ko-collar was seen only in two overcoat. Coming to the 18th centry, the outer lapels became round-edged like those of jackets, while the inner lapels formed squar-tray-collar. In the process of positional changes of the collar and outer collar of Korean jacket and overcoat, the outer lapels positioned outside the outer collar, or a part of width of collar's positioned upon the outer collar, or the whole outer lapels positioned inside the outer collar. And through these changes the current position of the outer lapels became settled in the end of the 19th centry. But the inner lapels did not undergo many changes compared with the outer ones, and their position was mainly outside the outer collar like those of current lapels. And the garment's collar and outer collar of jacket and overcoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie(고름) became large.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.265-275
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.48-59
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• 2003

The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.