• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.129-141
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of historical costume style and painting on Vivienne Westwood design. For this purpose, the costume style after 16C and the rococo painting of 18C are researched. And through Westwood's recent designs, the external form and internal symbol are compared. The results of this study were as follows : 1. From Renaissance, Rococo, Crinoline, Bustle, S style were showed on Westwood design. 2. In external method, historical costume styles were expressed by silhouette, detail, costume item, textile and various cuttings. 3. In the case of painting, it focused on Rococo painting of 18C. Costumes in painting were realized or painting itself were used for textile. 4. Most of her design was cut in the round rather than in the flat, bold cutting and slash were employed. 5. These works are symbolizing the harmony of tradition and future, at the same time through the transformation of orthodox style, containing ridicule to the authority and a challenge to society as well as sex. These results let us know that Westwood is versatile to transform the history and harmonize the tradition and 20C Fashion successfully. (Korean J Human Ecology 2(1):129∼141, 1999)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of national images represented in Vivienne Westwood' collections through investigating her works in an aspect of national identity. The results were as follows: British fashion is generally known for having two national identities, Monarchy and Anarchy. Monarchy is the traditional British look and Anarchy is the free-spirited look which is related with the postwar phenomenon of rebellious youth culture. As a punk, Westwood participated in creating Anarchic identity of British fashion. But from the 80s, Westwood's attitude toward the national images has been changed. As a high fashion designer who became to represent British fashion in global market, Westwood started to research British dress tradition, especially through comparing with French fashion. She was particularly fascinated with the traditional fabrics like tartans, tweeds and innovative tailoring skills, which were related with the heritage of Englishness in dress. But she didn't follow the conventional ways and tried to reinvent the historical tradition in modern ways. By combining Monarchic tradition with tempting female sexuality, Westwood transgressed the existing ordinary Britishness of British fashion which was composed of aristocratic and royal identities, and created some innovative British fashion images. With these works, Westwood contributed to consolidate Englishness in dress on the one hand, but on the other hand, served to reconfigure Britishness of British fashion. Consequently, Westwood showed that what is believed as the essential national fashion identity can be challenged and reconfigured in modern fashion field.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.14-31
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• 2007

The Vivienne Westwood's design is divided into four eras : The 'Punk and Ethnic Style' era, The 'Feminine Style' era, The 'Eclectic Style' era and The 'Retrospective Style' era. The aesthetic characteristics of Vivienne Westwood's design vastly divided into Parody and the Punk Couture. Westwood's parody is exprssed by british materials, that is traditional British tailoring, dressmaking techniques, traditional british fabrics and her debt to the past. Also Westwood has presented the special characteristics of Punk Couture showing Punk-Style clothes by applying Couture sense to her own Pret a Porter Collection. She pursued newness breaking the conventional aesthetic consciousness through her cutting, mix and match of fabrics and cordy of punk details. Westwood pursued new aesthetics by deconstruction and destruction regulated existing ideas that had been systematized, conventionalized and standardized by history and culture. She had shown pluralistic fashion through her design that exactly reflected characteristics of the modern society demanding variety.

• 디지털콘텐츠학회 논문지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.147-154
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• 2014

높은 오류율을 가지는 무선 TCP(Transmission Control Protocol) 환경을 위한 TCP-Westwood 방법에 대한 연구가 많이 진행되었다. 이러한 TCP-Westwood 방법은 가용대역폭측정(Available Bandwidth Estimation)에 의해서 혼잡윈도우를 조절하는 방법이기 때문에 오류율이 높아질수록 이 가용대역폭측정값의 정확도가 떨어지는 문제점이 있다. 이러한 문제점을 해결하기 위해 본 논문에서는 ACK의 도착간격이 주어진 시간 간격을 벗어나는 경우에 ABE값을 무시하는 기존의 패킷 패턴 기반 가용대역폭필터링 방법과 가용대역폭측정값이 허용 가능한 범위를 벗어나는 경우에 주어진 허용 가능한 가용대역폭측정값으로 할당하는 새로운 방법을 모두 사용하였다. 제안한 방법의 실험결과는 기존의 다른 알고리즘들보다 가용대역폭측정값이 설정한 시뮬레이션 대역폭에 가장 유사함을 확인하였다.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.60-76
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the viewpoint on the 'clothes' as a part of art works which has the kunstwollen(artistic will) and the philosophy of a creator rather than just an outfit. For the literary research, this study investigates the history of Iconology and the E. Panofsky's theory. In order to make up for the limitation of Panofsky's iconology, applies the theories of H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood is selected because her fashion works have been mentioned as the artistic pieces by many fashion critics or the presses. Also Westwood has different social and cultural contexts which based on the periodic background, social influences and cultural actualities. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, in order to read the symbolic meaning, the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness of the fashion designer's works properly, the systematized interpretation method is necessary. Second, the creative works of Vivienne Westwood have been influenced by the various external elements. Especially her national background and identity are the main elements which have governed her creation. Third, Vivienne Westwood creates her works not just to wear but to incorporate the ideology and the philosophy of herself. She expresses the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness through her works. Forth, Vivienne Westwood pursues the communication between the human being and the world. Fifth, fashion makes various attempts to combine with different artistic fields. The 21st century fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trials and combinations. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.71-88
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• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.