• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.85-102
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2020

During the Joseon Dynasty, the rituals that were celebrated in the palaces were mainly held inside the palace and in the courtyard of the palace. Mats were spread on the floor of the place where the ritual was held. The mats spread in the Joseon Dynasty rituals divided the space in various ways, and in particular, they were spread in a certain form in the spaces of royal wedding, customs, and court banquet. Mats were the primary physical element that divided the royal ritual space of the Joseon Dynasty, and functioned to elevate the general space to the ritual space. In the ritual space, mats were spread inside the palace, and divided the courtyard of the palace into left and right in a symmetrical form to distinguish the hierarchy of the participants. Mats with special and white patterns were spread in the external ceremonial space and mats with flower and colorful patterns were spread in the internal ceremonial space. This was the subdivision of the Confucianism's male-female division through the mat. The pattern of the mat that divided the space of the royal family elders also meant longevity to reflect the filial thoughts of the Confucianism through the mat. Mats were a physical element for subdividing the royal family and the participants in the hierarchy of the space where the ritual is held, and it also performed a subdividing function between the royal participants. In other words, in the Joseon Dynasty ritual space, mats were temporarily spread while the ritual is being celebrated and functioned to elevate the space to a ritual space. It is confirmed that the fact that the mats were temporarily spread to divide the space into the hierarchies according to the status and were subdivided into colors and patterns to perform the function to reflect the subdivision of the royal family according to Confucianism and the statue of filial piety in the ritual.

• 역사민속학
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• 제52호
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• pp.197-250
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• 2017

관혼상제를 다룬 의례 매뉴얼의 출간과 필사가 일제강점기에 범람을 이루었다. 그러한 의례 매뉴얼은 대개 의례준칙, 사례서, 축문집, 종교예식서, 일용예식서 등 5종으로 분류될 수 있다. 이런 5종의 의례 매뉴얼은 목표와 내용이 서로 달랐지만, 당대 일반인들의 일상적인 민속과 종교의 형성에 깊은 관련이 있다는 점에서 상통하는 면이 있다. 당시 의례 매뉴얼은 엘리트 지식인의 지적인 성과물이기보다는 전근대의 예서와 문집에서 폭넓게 발췌하고 시대적 변화에 맞춰 첨삭을 가하는 수준에서 편집 발간된 것이며, 근대 인쇄술의 원조로 특정 계층에 제한되지 않고 폭넓게 유통되었다. 의례 매뉴얼은 깊이보다는 넓이를 강조하고 체화보다는 참조를 중시하는 민속지식을 대량으로 보급시키고 확산시켰다고 할 수 있다. 따라서 의례 매뉴얼에 대한 질적인 분석 못지않게 중요한 것이 그것이 얼마나 일반인들에게 참조되었는지를 판단하는 양적 이해라 할 수 있다. 일제강점기 의례 매뉴얼의 이해를 통해 당대는 물론 이후 20세기 민속의례 및 민속종교의 방향과 특질을 읽어내는 통로가 마련되길 기대한다.

• 영어영문학
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.171-190
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• 2011

Shakespeare's plays deploy an interesting array of food signs in a way to illuminate the historical process of what Stephen Mennell has described as "the civilizing of appetite"-a process in which the changes of food choices and eating habits took place in response to the changes in people's way of life and personality structure over the long-term modern period since the middle ages. Shakespeare's plays suggest that the civilizing of appetite in early modern England was heavily affected by the forces of social mobility as well as the nascent market economy. The Capulets' costly preparation of Juliet's wedding banquet is a showcase of conspicuous consumption which was a structural necessity for the ruling class in Shakespeare's time. Some fifteen years later, the same kinds of foodstuffs are included in a shepherd's shopping list for the sheepshearing festival in Winter's Tale. This is a significant coincidence to prove that food was an important source of emulation and contest among different social classes; and that the rich diet of the upper class gave impetus to social mobility. The Elizabethan subjects, especially among the elite noblemen, were interpellated by the ideology of food that equated the quality of food and the eater's social identity. Faced with bankruptcy as a consequence of his extravagant consumption habit, Bassanio in The Merchant of Venice testifies to the gripping ideology of food onto early modern people, while Poor Tom in King Lear presents a comic parody of the rich people's conspicuous waste. Also in Coriolanus and The Merry Wives of Winsor, Shakespeare uses food as a metaphor for class-motivated social struggles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.272-288
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women's Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.348-365
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

• 인간식물환경학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.455-466
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• 2019

This study was carried out to analyze trends in floral products and services through the big data analysis of various social networking services (SNSs) and then to provide objective marketing directions for the floricultural industry. To analyze the big data of SNSs, we used four analytical methods: Cotton Trend (Social Matrix), Naver Big Data Lab, Instagram Big Data Analysis, and YouTube Big Data Analysis. The results of the big data analysis showed that SNS users paid positive attention to flower one-day classes that can satisfy their needs for direct experiences. Consumers of floral products and services had their favorite designs in mind and purchased floral products very actively. The demand for flower items such as bouquets, wreaths, flower baskets, large bouquets, orchids, flower boxes, wedding bouquets, and potted plants was very high, and cut flowers such as roses, tulips, and freesia were most popular as of June 1, 2019. By gender of consumers, females (68%) purchased more flower products through SNSs than males (32%). Consumers preferred mobile devices (90%) for online access compared to personal computers (PCs; 10%) and frequently searched flower-related words from February to May for the past three years from 2016 to 2018. In the aspect of design, they preferred natural style to formal style. In conclusion, future marketing activities in the floricultural industry need to be focused on social networks based on the results of big data analysis of popular SNSs. Florists need to provide consumers with the floricultural products and services that meet the trends and to blend them with their own sensitivity. It is also needed to select SNS media suitable for each gender and age group and to apply effective marketing methods to each target.

• 원예과학기술지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.366-370
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• 2013

본 연구는 P. carotovorum subsp. carotovorum에 의해 발생하는 칼라의 무름병 저항성 품종 선발을 위한 효율적인 검정 방법을 구명하기 위해 수행되었다. Z. aethiopica 4품종에 대하여 $1{\times}10^7cfu/mL$, $1{\times}10^8cfu/mL$, $1{\times}10^9cfu/mL$ 농도의 EccNHRI-21 균주 현탁액을 잎과 엽병에 상처접종하고, 접종 후 4, 18, 26시간 후에 무름병 발생 정도를 조사하였다. 그 결과, $1{\times}10^9cfu/mL$ 농도의 균주 현탁액을 잎에 접종한 후 18시간 이후에 저항성 정도를 평가하는 것이 칼라 무름병 저항성 검정 및 품종 선발을 위해 가장 적합한 것으로 나타났다. 상처접종법을 이용하여 Z. aethiopica 재배품종 10종과 야생종 4종 등 총 14종에 대하여 무름병 저항성 정도를 평가한 결과, 재배품종의 경우 'Crowbrough'와 'White Cutie'가 가장 강한 저항성을 보였으며, 'Mont Blanc'과 'Silky White'도 저항성 품종으로 선발되었다. 또한 'Wedding March'와 'Kiwi blush'는 중도저항성 품종으로 평가되었고, 'Childsiana' 등 4품종은 감수성 품종으로 평가되었다. 야생종의 경우 'Z. aethiopica wildtype 11'이 저항성을 보이는 등 4종 모두 중도저항성 이상의 무름병 저항성을 가지는 것으로 평가되었다. 지금까지 경종적 방제 및 생물학적 방제, 화학적 방제 등 여러 가지 방제 방법이 시도되었으나, 무름병 발생 피해를 최소화하기 위해서는 내병성 품종을 재배하는 것이 가장 효율적이다. 따라서 상처접종법을 이용한 무름병 저항성 검정 기술이 칼라의 무름병 저항성 품종 개발에 유용하게 쓰일 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.569-577
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• 2002

본 연구는 서울 지역의 주부를 대상으로 하여 혼례음식(폐백과 이바지 음식)의 인식상황과 실태를 파악함으로써 혼례음식 발전의 기초자료를 제공하고자 얻은 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 폐백음식의 인식에 대해서는 '결혼 후 시댁에 인사를 드리는 것'이라는 응답이 55.2%, '옛날부터 내려오는 하나의 풍습'이 35.8%로 나타나 상당히 정확하게 알고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 폐백음식에 대한 중요도 인식수준은 전체 응답자의 10.2%가 '매우 중요하다'라고 응답하였으며, '중요하다' 48.5%, '중요하지 않다'는 11.9%로 나타나 폐백음식의 중요성에 대하여 공감하는 비율이 높게 나타났다. 특히 주부의 연령별로 20대 집단에서 30대 이상의 집단에 비해 '중요하지 않다'는 응답율이 높게 나타났다(p<0.05). 둘째, 폐백음식 준비방법으로는 '가정에서 직접마련'한다와 '시장이나 떡집에서 마련'하겠다는 응답이 비슷한 비율을 보였으며, 연령별 교육수준별(p<0.05)로 유의한 차이를 보였다. 폐백음식 장만시 드는 비용으로는 '30-50만원'이라고 응답한 비율이 50%로 가장 높게 나타났고, '10-30만원'29%>'50-100만원'18% 순으로 나타났다. 셋째, 선호하는 폐백음식으로는 '밤 대추고임'을 준비한다는 의견이 77.5%로 가장 높게 나타났으며, 그 다음으로 '떡류'>'육포'>'술'>'한과'등의 순으로 나타났다. 넷째, 이바지음식에 대한 의미로는 48.2%가 '신부측에서 마련한 음식을 시댁에 보내는것'이라고 응답하였으며, 이바지 음식의 필요성에 대해서는 '반드시 준비해야한다'라는 의견이 15.5%, '형편에 맞추어 준비한다'는 78.7%, '준비할 필요가 없다'5.8%로 나타나 전반적으로 이바지 음식의 필요성에대해서 공감대를 형성하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 또한 취업주부가 '필요하다'라는 응답이 높게 나타났고, 종교적으로도 불교를 믿는 주부보다 기독교를 믿는 주부들에게서 유의적인 차이를 보였다(p<0.01). 다섯 번째, 혼례음식의 개선점으로 메뉴의 간소화> 가격을 저렴하게 하는 문제> 폐백음식 선택의 다양화 순으로 나타났다. 연령별로 40대 주부집단에서 '메뉴의 간소화' 응답율이 높게 나타났다(p<0.01). 이상의 같은 연구 결과로 보아 우리나라의 모범이 되는 혼례음식의 계승을 위해서 꾸준한 노력과 관심이 필요하다고 사료된다. 과거와 다른 신식혼례를 치르면서도 폐백을 드리고 이바지 음식 보내는 풍습은 계속 이어지고 있다. 이러한 혼례 풍습은 계속 이어질 것이기에 혼례음식이 가지고 있는 기복과 주술적인 의미를 되살리면서 저렴한 가격으로 누구나 손쉽게 장만할 수 있는 간편한 방법이 모색되어 전통을 살리면서 모범이 되는 혼례음식문화를 계승 발전시켜 나가야 하겠다.