• Atmosphere
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.349-364
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• 2007

The main purpose of this study is to examine the sensitivity of the WRF (Weather Research and Forecasting) in the wind field to the steepness of mountains in the case with a strong downslope wind occurred in the Yeongdong province. We conducted WRF simulations for February 13 2006. The initial and boundary data are from the NCEP/NCAR $1^{\circ}{\times}1^{\circ}$ GDAS. Arbitrary terrains of the mountains with a symmetric orography and an asymmetric one with steeper leeward slope, were introduced to examine the sensitivity of the shape of the mountains. The simulation with an asymmetric terrain results in stronger maximum surface wind by about $10ms^{-1}$ than with a symmetric terrain, especially in the narrow region from the peak to ~ 4 km away in the downstream. However, the maximum surface wind speed is weaker by $20ms^{-1}$ than with a symmetric terrain away from the narrow peak region. This indicates that the steeper slope leads to the intensification of downslope wind in the narrower region leeward. In addition, for the simulation with an asymmetric terrain, the strength of wave breaking is greater and the Lee wave is more dominant than for that with a symmetric terrain.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.34-39
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• 2002

본 논문에서는 수면파(Surface wave)와 수중파 (Internal wave)간의 동적 상관관계에 관하여 수행된 연구결과를 정리하였다. 표면파의 비선형 문제는 파의 경사매개변수를 2차원으로 가정하여 해석하였으며, Cauchy 문제는 불균일 조류상의 균일 수면중력파에 대하여 해석하였다. 또한, 파의 경사, 주기의 범위(Frequency range) 그리고 자유표면하의 조류의 분포들간의 조화에 대한 연구가 수행되었으며 해류 및 이동파와 연계되어 수중파의 최전 후방에 형성될 수 있는 정적 파형 (Steady wave pattern)이 수면파형에 포함되었다.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, take into account the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, wave-wave interaction, and wave-current interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process, we applied the spectral wave model to the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on. We also compared the simulation results with the calculatea from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and safer use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.102-108
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• 2013

In this paper time series wave data, which were measured at the Draupner platform in the North Sea on 1995, are used to investigate statistical characteristics of nonlinear wave. Various statistical properties based on time and frequency domain are examined. The Gram-Chalier distribution fits the probability of wave elevation better than the Gaussian distribution. The skewness of wave profile is 0.393 and the kurtosis is 4.037 when the freak wave is occurred. The nonlinearity of D1520 data is higher than two adjacent wave data. AI index of the New Year Wave is 2.11 and the wave height is 25.6m. The zero crossing wave period of the New Year Wave is 12.5s which is compared to the average zero up-crossing period 11.3s. The significant steepness of wave data is 0.077 when the freak wave was occurred. H1/3/${\eta}_s$ does not increases as the kurtosis increases and the values is close to 4. The New Year Wave belongs to highly nonlinear wave data packet but the AI index is within linear focusing range.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.140-145
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• 2000

The spectral method which is composed of an eigenfunction expansion of free modes in the wave number domain is used to produce two dimensional unsteady inviscid wave simulation such as progressive waves in a numerical pneumatic wave tank. A spatial and time dependent free surface elevation and the potential are calculated by integrating ODE derived from fully nonlinear kinematic and dynamic free surface boundary condition at each time step. The nonlinear characteristics in the waves by this method were notable as increasing wave steepness. This method is very useful and powerful in terms of saving computational time caused by rapid convergence exponentially with increasing number of nodes, even preserving accurate numerical results. Moreover, it will given us many possibilities to apply to naval and ocean engineering fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.96-103
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• 1990

A local Iribarren number is suggested for the universal use of breaker type classification, which relates the bed slope to the wave steepness, both being given from the breaking point. The existing Iribarren number uses the wave length at an offshore point, while the local Iribarren number uses the wave length at the breaking point so that it can imply any influences due to current interaction and diffraction. The modified form of Miche's breaking criterion includes 고 breaking parameter which may be related to the local Iribarren number. Using the modifiedform of Miche's criterion with the local Iribarren number, the inclusion of Doppler effect seems to describe well the wave breaking mechanism in a current-interacted flow on a sloping beach without any additional effects implemented.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.610-625
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• 2015

In this paper the wave run-up around a circular column in regular waves is numerically calculated to investigate the applicability of the Modified Marker-Density (MMD) method to prediction of wave run-up around an offshore platform. The MMD method is one of the methods to define the highly nonlinear free surface. The governing equations are the Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation which are computed in Cartesian grid system. To validate incident waves generated by numerical simulation, those are compared with the solutions of the Stokes $5^{th}$ order wave theory. The wave run-up simulations are performed varying the steepness and period of incident waves as referred experimental data. The numerical results are compared to the experimental data and the results show good agreements.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.18-24
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• 2007

When the wind blows strong, most waves are breaking at sea. Breaking waves occur by exceeding the limitation of wave steepness (wave height/wave length = 1/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at a two-dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies based on dispersion relation. This study investigates the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force at the breaking point and breaking region. We compare the regular wave load in a regular wave, which has same specifications (wave height, period and length), with the breaking waveload. Also, the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated, by comparison with the analytic results using the potential theory.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.60-73
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• 2014

The seaward reverse wave, occurring on the submerged dual porous horizontal plate, can contribute to the reduction of the transmitted wave as it reflects the propagating wave. However, the collision between the propagating and seaward reverse waves increases the water level and acts as a weight on the horizontal plate. This study investigated the characteristics of the wave pressure created by the seaward reverse wave through the analysis of experimental data. The analysis confirmed the following results: 1) the time series of the wave pressure showed reverse phase phenomena due to the collision, and the wave pressures acted simultaneously on both upper and lower surfaces of the horizontal plate; 2) the horizontal plate became repeatedly compressed and tensile before and after the occurrence of the seaward reverse wave; and 3) the seaward reverse wave created the total wave pressure to the maximum towards the direction of gravity, primarily on the upper plate. It was also confirmed that the wave distributions showed a similar trend to the wave steepness. Such outcome of the analysis will provide basic information to the structural analysis of the horizontal plate as a wave dissipater of the steel-type breakwater (STB).

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.47-52
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• 2007

This paper presents the design of a submerged breakwater, which functions as an eco-structure in a marine environment. Newly patented blocks were used in the submerged breakwater to both make it stable and provide an inhabitable space for fish. To investigate the wave transmission of the proposed submerged breakwater, parametric studies were conducted through two-dimensional hydraulic tests, which were carried out at the National Fisheries Research and Development Institute (NFRDI) in South Korea. Those parameters are relative crest width (B/L), wave steepness (H/L), relative crest depth (hB/H), and submerged breakwater configuration. The hydraulic experimental results can be used to predict the performance of the proposed submerged breakwater covered with the multi-function blocks.