Wave Breaking in Shallow Waters

천해역에서의 쇄파

A local Iribarren number is suggested for the universal use of breaker type classification, which relates the bed slope to the wave steepness, both being given from the breaking point. The existing Iribarren number uses the wave length at an offshore point, while the local Iribarren number uses the wave length at the breaking point so that it can imply any influences due to current interaction and diffraction. The modified form of Miche's breaking criterion includes 고 breaking parameter which may be related to the local Iribarren number. Using the modifiedform of Miche's criterion with the local Iribarren number, the inclusion of Doppler effect seems to describe well the wave breaking mechanism in a current-interacted flow on a sloping beach without any additional effects implemented.