• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

Long-term wave distribution at Jeju sea is investigated by a numerical simulation based on the thirdgeneration wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The Jeju sea which retains relatively high wave energy density among Korean coastal regions is considered to be a suitable site for wave power generation and the efficiency of wave power generation is closely related to local wave characteristics. The monthly mean of a large-scale long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002, which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute. is used as the boundary condition of SWAN model simulation with 1km grid. An analysis of wave distribution concentrates on the seasonal variation and spatial distribution of significant wave heights, mean wave directions and mean wave periods. Significant wave heights are higher in winter and summer and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively higher than east's. The highest significant wave height occurs at the northeast sea in winter and the second highest significant wave height appears at the southeast sea in summer, while the significant wave heights in spring and autumn are relatively low but homogeneous. The distribution of wave directions reveals that except the rear region influenced by wave refraction, the northwest wave direction is dominant in summer and the southeast in winter. Wave periods are longer in summer and winter and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively longer than east's. The longest wave period occurs at the west sea in winter, and in summer it appears relatively homogeneous with a little longer period at the south sea.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.102-108
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• 2013

In this paper time series wave data, which were measured at the Draupner platform in the North Sea on 1995, are used to investigate statistical characteristics of nonlinear wave. Various statistical properties based on time and frequency domain are examined. The Gram-Chalier distribution fits the probability of wave elevation better than the Gaussian distribution. The skewness of wave profile is 0.393 and the kurtosis is 4.037 when the freak wave is occurred. The nonlinearity of D1520 data is higher than two adjacent wave data. AI index of the New Year Wave is 2.11 and the wave height is 25.6m. The zero crossing wave period of the New Year Wave is 12.5s which is compared to the average zero up-crossing period 11.3s. The significant steepness of wave data is 0.077 when the freak wave was occurred. H1/3/${\eta}_s$ does not increases as the kurtosis increases and the values is close to 4. The New Year Wave belongs to highly nonlinear wave data packet but the AI index is within linear focusing range.

• The Korean Journal of Ecology
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• v.21 no.5_2
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• pp.491-499
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• 1998

An investigation was performed to establish the mathematical theories of a vibration for the plant growth and a wave distribution of a plant population on the boundary condition of a limiting factor in the environment. The mathematical theories of the plant growth vibration and wave distribution had been elucidated by the plant growth and the timber line on the middle slope of the west side of Mt. Paektu. The Betula ermaruii composes the timber line on about 2,060 m elevation of sea label, has a growth vibration on the ground surface and takes a wave distribution due to a boundary condition of alpine temperature gradient.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.58-65
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• 1993

The theoretical treatment of statistical properties and distribution relevant to nonlinear random wave field of moderate bandwidth such as peak and trough of wave elevation is an overdue task hampered by the complicated form of nonlinear random waves. In this study, the extreme distribution of nonlinear random waves is derived based on the simplified version of Longuet-Higgins' wave model. It is shown that the band width of wave spectrum has a significant influence on these extreme distribution and the significant wave height is getting larger in an increasing manner as the nonlinearity is getting profound.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.121-126
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• 2006

Modern Ocean wave forecasting systems predict the mean sea state, as characterized by the wave spectrum, in a box of size ${\Delta}x{\Delta}y$ surrounding a grid point at location x. It is shown that this approach also allows the determination of deviations from the mean sea state, i.e. the probability distribution function of the surface elevation. Hence, ocean wave forecasting may provide valuable information on extreme sea states.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.26-36
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• 2020

An extreme value analysis of metocean data which include wave, wind, and current data is a prerequisite for the operation and survival of offshore structures. The purpose of this study was to provide information about the return wave, wind, and current values for the Barents Sea using extreme value analysis. Hindcast datasets of the Global Reanalysis of Ocean Waves 2012 (GROW2012) for a waves, winds and currents were obtained from the Oceanweather Inc. The Gumbel distribution, 2 and 3 parameters Weibull distributions and log-normal distribution were used for the extreme value analysis. The least square method was used to estimate the parameters for the extreme value distribution. The return values, including the significant wave height, spectral peak wave period, wind speed and current speed at surface, were calculated and it will be utilized to design offshore structures to be operated in the Barents Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.75-82
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• 1990

A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.61-67
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• 2009

In this paper time series wave data which contain a freak wave is investigated. Various wave characteristics are compared between wave data with a freak wave and without. Among 24 hour wave data measured in the Yura Sea, two adjacent 30 min wave data with and without a freak wave are examined intensively. It is seen that the highest waves do not have the longest wave period. The wave period of the longest period waves is a little longer than the average wave period and much shorter than the significant wave period. Although the sea state is quite high, the Rayleigh distribution fits well to the probability of wave height. The characteristics of the wave spectra do not change much, but the nonlinearity increases for the wave data with a freak wave. The significant wave height without a freak wave is larger than that with a freak wave. Hence, the higher significant wave height does not always increase the probability of the occurrence of the freak waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.130-141
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• 2004

For a coastal or harbor structure design, one of the most important environmental factors is the appropriate design wave condition. Especially, the information of deepwater wave height distribution is essential for reliability design. In this paper, a set of deep water wave data obtained from KORDI(2003) were analyzed for extreme wave heights. These wave data at 67 stations off the Korean coast from 1979 to 1998 were arranged in the 16 directions. The probability distributions considered in this research were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-pearson Type-III, and Lognormal distribution. For each of these distributions, three parameter estimation methods, i.e. the method of moments, maximum likelihood and probability weighted moments, were applied. Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov goodness-of-fit tests were performed, and the assumed distribution was accepted at the confidence level 95%. Gumbel distribution which best fits to the 67 station was selected as the most probable parent distribution, and optimally estimated parameters and 50 year design wave heights were presented.

• Journal of Astronomy and Space Sciences
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2022

It is suggested that magnetosonic waves (also known as equatorial noise) can scatter radiation belt electrons in the Earth's magnetosphere. Therefore, it is important to understand the global distribution of these waves between the proton cyclotron frequency and the lower hybrid resonance frequency. In this study, we developed an empirical model for estimating the global distribution of magnetosonic wave amplitudes and wave normal angles. The model is based on the entire mission period (approximately 2012-2019) of observations of Van Allen Probes A and B as a function of the distance from the Earth (denoted by L^*), magnetic local time (MLT), magnetic latitude (λ), and geomagnetic activity (denoted by the Kp index). In previous studies the wave distribution inside and outside the plasmasphere were separately investigated and modeled. Our model, on the other hand, identifies the wave distribution along with the ambient plasma environment-defined by the ratio of the plasma frequency (f_pe) to the electron cyclotron frequency (f_ce)-without separately determining the wave distribution according to the plasmapause location. The model results show that, as Kp increases, the dayside wave amplitude in the equatorial region intensifies. It thereby propagates the intense region towards the wider MLT and inward to L^* < 4. In contrast, the f_pe/f_ce ratio decreases with increasing Kp for all regions. Nevertheless, the decreasing aspect differs between regions above and below L^* = 4. This finding implies that the particle energy and pitch angle that magnetosonic waves can effectively scatter vary depending on the locations and geomagnetic activity. Our model agrees with the statistically observed wave distribution and ambient plasma environment with a coefficient of determination of > 0.9. The model is valid in all MLTs, 2 ≤ L^* < 6, |λ| < 20°, and Kp ≤ 6.