• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.160-176
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• 2017

The interaction of focused wave groups with a vertical wall is investigated based on the second order potential theory. The NewWave theory, which represents the most probable surface elevation under a large crest, is adopted. The analytical solutions of the surface elevation, velocity potential and wave force exerted on the vertical wall are derived, up to the second order. Then, a parametric study is made on the interaction between nonlinear focused wave groups and a vertical wall by considering the effects of angles of incidence, wave steepness, focal positions, water depth, frequency bandwidth and the peak lifting factor. Results show that the wave force on the vertical wall for obliquely-incident wave groups is larger than that for normally-incident waves. The normalized peak crest of wave forces reduces with the increase of wave steepness. With the increase of the distance of focal positions from the vertical wall, the peak crest of surface elevation, although fluctuates, decreases gradually. Both the normalized peak crest and adjacent crest and trough of wave forces become larger for shallower water depth. For focused wave groups reflected by a vertical wall, the frequency bandwidth has little effects on the peak crest of wave elevation or forces, but the adjacent crest and trough become smaller for larger frequency bandwidth. There is no significant change of the peak crest and adjacent trough of surface elevation and wave forces for variation of the peak lifting factor. However, the adjacent crest increases with the increase of the peak lifting factor.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02a
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• pp.451-454
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• 2008

Potential tsunamis which may occur near Ryukyu Islands were simulated. Propagation characteristics of the potential tsunamis over the southwestern sea and the influence of tsunamis on the southwestern coast of Korean Peninsula were analyzed. The shallow water area in the east sea of China and the deep water Okinawa Trough play an important role in wave transformation and propagation of the potential tsunamis. The propagation characteristics of the potential tsunamis generated near Ryukyu Islands can be described as in followings : In the first stage after generation, the tsunamis propagate with high speed both northeastward and southwestward along the Okinawa Trough. As a result the waves are elongated and the tsunami height is significantly reduced. The elongated crest of tsunamis spans the whole distance of the Okinawa Trough and lines up toward the edge of the continental shelf of East China Sea. Then, the tsunamis are propagating towards the southeast coast of China. Thus, the influence of tsunamis on the Korean coasts becomes weak.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.58-65
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• 1993

The theoretical treatment of statistical properties and distribution relevant to nonlinear random wave field of moderate bandwidth such as peak and trough of wave elevation is an overdue task hampered by the complicated form of nonlinear random waves. In this study, the extreme distribution of nonlinear random waves is derived based on the simplified version of Longuet-Higgins' wave model. It is shown that the band width of wave spectrum has a significant influence on these extreme distribution and the significant wave height is getting larger in an increasing manner as the nonlinearity is getting profound.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.103-111
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• 1996

I followed the results of Lee and Min(1996) for classification of the months of cold and warm winter. The winter of 1992 and 1984 recorded extraordinary cold and warm. Study of the Synoptic Climatology on the January's cold and warm winter is below: (1) Climatology's characteristic. Temperature of extremely high temperature month is higher compared with extremely low temperature month. Also precipitation is more than over low temperature month compared with extremely high temperature month. (2) In circulation of 500hPa surface. (1) Extremely high temperature month At 500hPa, negative geopotential height anomalies in high latitude, three trough developed over eastern Canada. In midlatitude, a deep trough persisted in the central North Pacific and conspicuous positive height anomalies showed over northwestern Europe, Where a blocking anticyclone developed. It had been warmer than normal since last year in Korea due mainly to positive height anomalies stretched from central Siberia (2) Extremely low temperature month Appeared the strong meridional circulation and negative height anomalies showed from Far East to the Mid-Pacific and appeared ridge in the west of the North America and Atlantic. Alutien Low shows negative deviation during 1984. In northern hemisphere shows negative deviation. Therefore, we can show that the surface pressure distribution and height distribution of 500hPa level are closely connected with each other as parts of general circulation. (3) The characteristics of the general circulation pattern of the 500hPa (1) Extremely high temperature month is high than extremely low temperature month1984 in Zonal index (2) The majority type is S type in 500hPa level circulation of extremely high temperature month but extremely high temperature month is M type (3) The wave number in 500hPa all shows 3 wave. So can not distinguished by only predominant wave number pattern.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.8-15
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• 2012

An experimental study was carried out in order to understand the kinematics of bichromatic waves. Bichromatic waves are generated in a two-dimensional wave tank, and measured by panorama PIV technique, which allows the flow fields to be captured with respect to a spatial coordinate system. We compared wave profiles and velocities of wave particles obtained by experiment with theoretical results using Stokes 1st and 2nd order waves. The velocity distribution at wave crest and trough of the highest and lowest point of a bichromatic wave are investigated in this study.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.44-51
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• 2008

The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.99-108
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• 2014

One year long time-series current data were obtained at two stations (K1 and K2) located in the Usan Trough in the area north of Ulleungdo in the East Sea from September 2006. The observed data reveal enhanced seafloor flows in both stations with variabilities of about 20 days which is possibly governed by the topographic Rossby wave. After February 2007, strong flow in the upper layer in St. K1 appears throughout the mooring period and this is due to the passage of the warm eddy comparing with satellite sea surface temperature data. During this period, no significant correlation between the current in the upper layer and those in two deep layers is shown indicating the eddy does not affect flows in the deep ocean. It is also observed that the flow direction rotates clockwise with depth in both stations except for the upper of the K1. This implies that the deep flow does not parallel to the isobaths exactly and it has a downwelling velocity component. The possibility of the flow from the Japan Basin to the Ulleung Basin across the Usan Trough is not evidenced from the data.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.843-848
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• 2015

The objective of this study is to observe and optimize a typical ocean environment and reduce wave reflections in the wave flume. In order to generate ocean waves in the wave flume, a combination of a horizontal piston type wave generator and wave absorbers was installed in the channel. Two probes for measuring the wave heights, i.e., wave level gauges, were used to record the continuous variation of the wave surface, the phase difference, and the maximum (crest) and minimum (trough) points of the propagating waves. In order to optimize the shape and size of the propagating waves, several absorption methods were proposed. Apart from an active wave absorption method, we used methods that involved vertical porous plates, horizontal punching plates, and sloping-wall-type wave absorbers. To obtain the best propagating waves, a sloping-wall-type wave absorber was chosen and tested in terms of the constitutive filling materials and the location and shape of the plate. This study also focused on the theoretical prediction of the wave surface, separating them into the incident and reflective components. From the results, it is evident that the wave absorber comprising a hard filling material exhibits a better performance than the absorber comprising a soft material, i.e., the wave absorber can be a strong sink to control the energy of the incoming wave. In addition, larger wave absorbers correspond to lower reflectance because a larger volume can reduce the incoming wave energy. Therefore, at constant absorber conditions, the reflectance of the wave increases as the wave period increases. Finally, the reflectance of the wave was controlled to be less than 0.1 in this study so that the wave flume can be used to simulate an offshore environment.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.