• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.25-34
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• 1998

This study has it's purpose in examining the materialized background. characteristic of African traditional costume and the A fro fashion of the year 1960. and it's influence on the contemporary fashion. Then the findings are applied to suggest a new way of image creation. 1960' s was the year in which people tried to free oneself from the ruling culture of the social standards. war. and the development of science. By such movement. people started to get interested in the environment and ecology. This then lead to the interest of the rights of the minority. With the youngs as the central figure A fro hair style and dashiki appeared as the street fashion. The characteristics of African costume applied to A fro fashion in 1990' s is as below. First. the North African style. Djellaba. and wrap style in the most common silhouette. Second. heavy materials such as stone. copper. silver. and gold are used. Necklace can be classified according to it's simple but. modern style. delicate but grand style. Bracelets are however. broad in width and many rings are worn widely. Third. Multi colored stripe and prints inspired by tattoo and deformation using red brown. dark beige. and orange are printed on textiles such as see through. Fourth. image of tattoo and deformation are applied to make-up. A fro hair and corn beads are also African taste. Fifth. African taste in recent fashion showed off the black beauty by appointing black models at the collection. In analyzing the study done above. characteristic images of African costume. accessaries and body painting was applied in presenting 3 creative designs. The first design named "Geometric I", took it's motif from the geometric pattern of the body painting with the afro hair. "Geometric II", the second design, showed it's application of geometric pattern of mutilation and the silhouette of the costume by using the see through. The third design called the "Geometric III" showed that the aesthetic and decorative side of clothing can be satisfied by applying various form and color of accessaries as the motif. A fro fashion is chosen as one of the folklore mood and it's beauty is conveyed on till today.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.1-14
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to find out how the urban landscape of Korea, especially Seoul, changed during the last half century since 1945. The modernization of Korea, which had begun in 1960's after the chaotic period caused by Korean War, influenced the rapid growth of cities and the radical changes of its structures. But the Western-minded planning theories based on rationalism and positivism was directly applied in developing our traditional cities and consequently the modern urban landscape including urban pattern, architectural style, and commercial and residential landscape revealed disharmony, discrepancy and inconsistency in skylines, streetscape and so on. The findings are summarized as follows. 1. Because the urban structure and pattern changed in undesirable manner in terms of land use and traffic circulation, cities as a whole resulted in exclusive and heterogeneous landscape, and citizens lost their identity and felt alienated. 2. Because the architectural forms of important and monumental buildings which influenced the character of streetscape were not so successful in inventing contemporary Korean Style in true sense, we still have difficulty in creating the urban landscape of originality and legibility. 3. Because from the beginning of this era almost all highrise buildings were designed by modernism-oriented western architects, the commercial landscape of central cities did not evoke a sense of place, and after the introduction of postmodernism this tendency is ore striking even in everyday ordinary streetscape. 4. The newly formed residential landscape which was mainly composed of highly dense and highrise apartment, not only evolved very overwhelming and ugly visual impact but also exposed many social problems in living condition, neighboring and face-to-face contact. In conclusion, in ordr to define the 'Koreanness' of our urban landscape, we have to struggle to combine traditional architectural heritage and native townscape with Western shape, thought and theory, no matter how difficult it may be.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.4
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• pp.1-20
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• 2017

Centered on Kathleen Kye, a designer who conveyed messages on social issues through her dresses, and established her own identity, this study aimed to examine what theme, method of expression and inner meaning her 'statement' had, as a way of expressing a critical awareness. After reviewing discussions by Duggan G. G. as well as dictionary definitions, statement fashion design can be defined as a work or fashion shows containing a message of a designer who is free from a particular trend or consumerism in various social issues. Statement fashion designers give opposing messages on social issues through their fashion collections. As a result, research shows that contemporary statement fashion designers are expressing themes of a fashion systems, fetishism, body image, collision, environment, as well as the socially disadvantaged by appropriation, reuse, slogan, metaphorical pattern and performance. Satire, awakening, challenge and support can be derived from the inner meaning of contemporary statement fashion design. In terms of the theme, method of expression and inner meaning, this study showed that KYE collection of the designer Kathleen Kye expresses critical awareness on the modern society. Research findings reveal that KYE collection include the following themes: long-term youth unemployment, conflict collision in war or on the Internet, fetishism by youth in a get-rich-quick fever, environmental issue causing destruction of an ecosystem by decrease in bee population, school violence and the socially disadvantaged related to alienated immigrants. Also, as a method of expression themes, such as metaphorical patterns, were used. The patterns used images including a skeleton, gun, heart, rope, plaster, homeless box, bee, honeycomb, chain and a slot machine. On the other hand, the inner meaning of statement in KYE collection showed satire on social issues, awakening on social issues unrecognized by the masses, and support for the socially disadvantaged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

Najang was the central Seori, affiliated to the Ministry of War during the Joseon dynasty. The objective of this study is to research the existing authentic Najang costumes from the late-Joseon dynasty by examining factors, such as the composition of the costume, size, and method of creation, and attempt to replicate it. The Leipzig Grassi Museum in Germany possesses an official uniform of Najang from the late-Joseon dynasty, and we visited the museum in May of 2013 to examine it for the study. Written records, or Uigwe, and other pictorial data from the Joseon Dynastry describe the Najang wearing black or navy clothing with white decoration and pointy hats. The most notable characteristic of the Najang uniform is that it has the cotton cords pattern. The hat has a brass ball attached, which was worn with the ball facing the front in the early Joseon Dynasty, and was worn facing the back in the later years. They usually wore black head cloths (Heuk-geon), but would attach feathers on the black hats (Heuk-rip) for special occasions. The Najang uniform preserved in the Leipsiz Grassi Muesim does not exist in Korea. It is made of cotton. The cotton cord pattern of the uniform of Najang was made using single-ply cords and double-ply cords. The hat worn by Najang is in a form of a cone that becomes narrower towards the top or is in a form with wide and open end. It was made of oiled paper covered with hemp, and two circular metal disks were attatched at the rear.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.40
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• pp.61-96
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• 2010

This research established that the two characteristics of Femail Gugguek were explored on the character as genre and the nationalism discourse. This research also included how to encounter the characteristic of Female Gugguek as a popular entertainment with the social context at the time and how to re-produce the social ideology. The 'historical nationalism narrative' piercing Female Gugguek had the close relation with the nation/state discourse of the time. The history reproduced by Female Gugguek was not real. It was the imagined past, the history as image. The Female Gugguek was a genre which typically showed how to intermediate fantasy, ideology and narrative. The happy-endings with the victory of male hero, the narrative pattern on overcoming national crisis, the narrative emphasizing the glorious past and the unification of nation, all these were projected the discourse on nationalistic ideology and nation/state-making in 1950's. The Utopian desire of Female Guggeuk imagining the glorious past and strong nation was the fantasy which concealed the contradiction in real life and the national identity damaged by colonial experience, division of territory, governance by U.S. Military Government and the Korean War. The Female Guggeuk was doing well, because it had amusement. Futhermore, imagination of glorious past and strong state/nation of Female Guggeuk satisfied the public's desire of escapism and wish to establish their position and identity in the rapid social-economic changes. However, Female Guggeuk repeatedly produced the never-changing characters, narrative pattern and conservative world-view. Thus, it became regarded as immature and obsolete thing in late 1950's. Female Guggeuk, which kept re-producing the retrogressive image of the past without modern viewpoint and interpretation, was not sensitive about change of time and trend of the people. Consequently, it was pushed out of people's major interest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.777-787
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.

• Journal of Korean Society of Industrial and Systems Engineering
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.163-172
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• 2012

In this study, It is assumed that customers are both usage unit of spare parts and stores of displaying and selling the goods that are installation unit of having the spare parts. The demand pattern through the effective order of spare parts and issue list in installation unit is investigated based on the assumption. Current ASL (Authorized Stockage List) selection of the army has been conducted in the way of using the analysis result of real usage experiences on spare parts used during the Korea War. For this study, ASL selection criteria and procedures based on army regulations and field manuals are specified. Since the traditional method does not presents the association analysis on spare parts used for the current equipment operating and does not have the clear criterion and analysis system about the ASL selection, in order to solve these problems, it was carried out that the association rule is employed for analyzing relationship between the effective order and issue list of the spare parts in point of the spare parts between usage unit and occurring month about purchase spare parts based on the star-schema table. Finally the new ASL selection way using the analysis result is proposed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.891-909
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• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2009

This research covers the ways in which typography, which has been expressed in a diverse range of fields and changed communication functions from the era of reading to the era of feeling according to the change in the times and social demands, has been represented in modem fashion, along with examining its inherent aesthetic characteristics. I reviewed the general information of typography's fundamental notions and functions through documented records, and analyzed the inherent aesthetic characteristics by examining the typographical patterns shown in modem fashion based on art works in domestic and international collections after 2000. The result of this research is that typography in modem fashion has been used for improving brand image, expressing social slogans, expressing images, linguistic function for playful expression and the interdependent relationships of modeling functions. Typography in modem fashion has always been diversely expressed harmoniously with linguistic and modeling functions. Through this, the aesthetic characteristics were firstly parodies through direct sentences addressing political and social ideologies, economic gaps, environmental issues and anti-war protests. Secondly, by using brand logos, typography was used as a commercial means like brand-image transfer and separation through customization of other brands. Thirdly, the aesthetic and artistic value of fashion were expressed after being used as experimental visual components like image, motive and patterns which are all elements of fashion design. Fourthly, by distortion and transformation of characters or childish decorations, along with the harmonization of words, cathartic humor was provided for the calloused senses of modern people.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.34-40
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• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.