Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2017.67.4.001

The Statement in KYE Collection by Designer Kathleen Kye  

Lee, Dah-Yeh (Dept of Fashion Design, Graduate School of Design, Kookmin University)
Park, Juhee (Dept of Fashion Design, Kookmin University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume / v.67, no.4, 2017 , pp. 1-20 More about this Journal
Abstract
Centered on Kathleen Kye, a designer who conveyed messages on social issues through her dresses, and established her own identity, this study aimed to examine what theme, method of expression and inner meaning her 'statement' had, as a way of expressing a critical awareness. After reviewing discussions by Duggan G. G. as well as dictionary definitions, statement fashion design can be defined as a work or fashion shows containing a message of a designer who is free from a particular trend or consumerism in various social issues. Statement fashion designers give opposing messages on social issues through their fashion collections. As a result, research shows that contemporary statement fashion designers are expressing themes of a fashion systems, fetishism, body image, collision, environment, as well as the socially disadvantaged by appropriation, reuse, slogan, metaphorical pattern and performance. Satire, awakening, challenge and support can be derived from the inner meaning of contemporary statement fashion design. In terms of the theme, method of expression and inner meaning, this study showed that KYE collection of the designer Kathleen Kye expresses critical awareness on the modern society. Research findings reveal that KYE collection include the following themes: long-term youth unemployment, conflict collision in war or on the Internet, fetishism by youth in a get-rich-quick fever, environmental issue causing destruction of an ecosystem by decrease in bee population, school violence and the socially disadvantaged related to alienated immigrants. Also, as a method of expression themes, such as metaphorical patterns, were used. The patterns used images including a skeleton, gun, heart, rope, plaster, homeless box, bee, honeycomb, chain and a slot machine. On the other hand, the inner meaning of statement in KYE collection showed satire on social issues, awakening on social issues unrecognized by the masses, and support for the socially disadvantaged.
Keywords
Kathleen Kye; KYE; metaphorical pattern; statement; statement fashion design;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Kye Fashion (n.d.-e). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/15-fw-collection
2 Kye Fashion (n.d.-f). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/15-ss-collection
3 Kye Fashion (n.d.-g). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/13-ss-collection
4 Kye Fashion (n.d.-h). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/14-ss-collection
5 Kye Fashion (n.d.-i). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/14-ss-nyfw-collection
6 Kye, H. H. (2014). Look good [좋아보여]. Seoul, Republic of Korea: Nexus book.
7 Lim, E. H.(2002). Subcultural styles that appeared in fashion in the 1990s (Unpublished master's thesis), Seoul University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
8 Leach, J. (2015, March 15). Stella McCartney Introduces 'Fur-Free Fur'. Retrived from http://styleblazer.com/382891/stella-mccartney-introduces-fur-free-fur/
9 Look good, Kathleen-Kye (2014, September 3). Retrieved from http://www.imagazinekorea.com/daily/dailyView.asp?no=2124
10 Mendes, V. (1999). 20th century fashion. (J. E. Kim, Trans), Seoul, Republic of Korea: Re2003.
11 Pak, E. (2013, February 8). NYFW: MOVE OVER K-POP, HERE COMES K-FASHION AT CONCEPT KOREA. Retrieved from http://www.villagevoice.com/news/nyfw-move-over-k-pop-here-comes-k-fashion-at-concept-korea-6672953
12 Park, J. S. (2015, October). New world of fake fur. Retrieved from http://navercast.naver.com/magazine_contents.nhn?rid=2011&contents_id=100497
13 Park, Y. J. (2013. February 14). Designer Kye Han Hee, Concept Korea F/W "Inspired from Youth Unem ployment", Retrieved from http://bntnews.hankyung.com/apps/news?popup=0&nid=08&c1=08&c2=08&c3=00&nkey=201302141055533&mode=sub_view
14 An, Y. H. (1999). Dictionary of Contemporary Art[현대미술사전]. Seoul, Republic of Korea: Mijinsa.
15 Bae, S. Y. (2015, July 24) Young designer Kathleen-Kye who care about contemporary youth. Retrieved from http://sports.chosun.com/news/utype.htm?id=201507280100308910022146&ServiceDate=20150727
16 Blanks, T. (2014, March 1). Vivienne Westwood Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear. Retrieved from http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/vivienne-westwood
17 style.com (n.d.-a). Retrieved from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/view.asp?scd_code=2559
18 style.com (n.d.-b). Retrieved from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/view.asp?scd_code=2838
19 Viva girl (2012, July 19). Retrieved from http://www.glam.kr/style/style-trend/37752
20 Yoon, Y. J. (2013). Ugliness aesthetics in contemporary fashion: The focus on fashion collection from 2000 to 2012 (Unpublished master's thesis), Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
21 Kirschbaum, S. M. (2002. October 21). Retrieved from Imitation of a Designer. http://observer.com/2002/10/imitation-of-a-designer/
22 Holmes, A. S. (2010, May 10). Katharine Hamnett meets Thatcher. Retrieved from https://iconicphotos.wordpress.com/2010/05/10/katharine-hamnett-meets-thatcher/
23 Im, G. W. & Jin. H. S. (2010). A Study of Tourism Resources Preservation of the World Heritage in the Danger. Jorunal of Photo Geography[한국사진지리학회지], 20(2), 97-115.
24 Imitation of a Designer (2002. October. 21). Retrieved from http://observer.com/2002/10/imitation-of-a-designer/
25 Chun, J. I. (2009). Design Issues for Society and a Direction of Design Sensitivity for the Minority (Unpublished doctor's thesis). Kookmin University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
26 Collins Cobuild English Dictionary for Advanced Learners (3rd ed.).(2001). London, UK: Harper Collins.
27 Jung, H. S. (1999). A Study on the British street as a Lower Culture Fashion Source. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 42(-), 137-162.
28 Kim, B. N. (2014). Study on the formative characteristics of the fashion brand MOSCHINO (Unpublished master's thesis), Hongik University, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
29 Kim, J. Y. (2015). Study on the art teaching method of upcycle based on sustainable design (Unpublished master's thesis), Dankook University, Cheonan, Republic of Korea.
30 Kim, M. J., Kown. Y. J., Song. S. W., Choi. G. H., Lee. J. M. & Lee. M. S. (2014). Fashion designers and fashion icon. Paju, Republic of Korea: Gyomoon Publishers.
31 Kim, N. R. (2012, July). VIVA GIRL. Marie claire.
32 Ko, H. Z. (2012). The Political and Social Statement through Fashion Design. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 62(5), 108-124.   DOI
33 Kye Fashion (n.d.-a). Retrieved from http://kyefashion.com/
34 Kye Fashion (n.d.-b). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/13-fw-collection
35 Kye Fashion (n.d.-c). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/12-ss-collection
36 Kye Fashion (n.d.-d). Retrieved from http://www.kyefashion.com/index.php/project/16-ss-collection
37 Dnarnton, R. (2008). The Kiss of Lamourette: Reflections in Cultural History. (J. H. Kim, Trans.). Seoul, Korea: Gil. (Original work published 1990)
38 Duggan, G.G. (2008). The greatest show on earth: A look at contemporary fashion shows and their relationship to performance art. In Brand. J. (Ed.), The Power of Fashion: About Designing and Meaning, Tielt, Belgium: Lannoo.
39 SOURCE Intelligence meets: Katharine Hamnett CBE (2012, August 8). Retrieved from http://source.ethicalfashionforum.com/article/source-intelligence-meets-katharine-hamnett-cbe
40 Evans, C. (2003). Fashion at the Edge. New Haven, USA: Yale University Press.
41 Firstview (n.d.-a). Retrieved from http://www.firstview.com/collection_images.php?id=6499&p=0&list=all&jumpto=938544#a938544
42 Firstview (n.d.-b). Retrieved from http://www.firstview.com/collection_images.php?id=29746
43 Firstview (n.d.-c). Retrieved from http://www.firstview.com/collection_images.php?id=660
44 Firstviewkorea (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.firstviewkorea.com
45 Buxbaum, G. (2009). Icons of Fashion. (Nam, H. N., Gum, K. S. & Park, H. S. Trans.). Seoul, Republic of Korea: Misulmunhwa. (Original work published 2006)
46 Ham. M. J. (2013, December 16). Create 'The high end street fashion.'. Retrieved from http://www.fashionbiz.co.kr/PE/main.asp?cate=2&idx=137155
47 Ham. M. J. (2014. March 27). Kye Han HEE KYE A Great Crowd, Retrieved from http://www.fashionbiz.co.kr/TN/?cate=2&recom=2&idx=139228