• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제20권6호
• /
• pp.713-721
• /
• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제5권4호
• /
• pp.130-158
• /
• 1997

This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.

• 전기학회논문지
• /
• 제58권4호
• /
• pp.849-856
• /
• 2009

Truncal obesity associated with insulin resistance and metabolic syndrome increase the likelihood of hypertension, various cardiovascular diseases, hyperlipidemia and coronary heart diseases. International Diabetes Federation (IDF) experts recognized that it is necessary to develop the simple diagnostic tool which is applicable to diagnose truncal obesity worldwide, and proposed the method using a waist circumference but there is a limit to estimate subcutaneous fat distribution. However, waist line is also influenced by total fat capacity less than the intra abdominal fat. The more having severe obesity, the more correlation coefficient between waist line and intra abdominal fat is low. Therefore, this thesis defines a new abdominal impedance measurement position and impedance-index to analysis central obesity. This proposes the new model to estimate abdominal obesity using the abdominal impedance-index and CT images acquired fro 160 Korean subjects. The proposed model shows that the abdominal fat distribution has a higher correlation than waist line. (Adj R2=0.809, 0.667 and 0.687 with abdominal fat area, visceral fat area and subcutaneous fat area respectively).

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제18권3호
• /
• pp.729-740
• /
• 2009

This study is to research on the rate of expansion or contraction according to movement of the lower body of the man their twenties using Rapid Form software. And aim of this study is to get information of ease allowance in developing slacks pattern using 3D body surface scan data through comparison with existing slacks patterns. Considering on the contraction and expansion according to movement, it need to set the more ease allowance in hip circumference than waist circumference, and the more ease allowance in back hip width than front hip width in slacks. In crotch length, the length of front crotch is revealed contraction but the length of back crotch is revealed expansion. It is desirable lowering front waist line and raising back waist line to possess ease allowance in back crotch area. The length of side seam is revealed a little expansion but the length of inseam is showed a great expansion. To develop slacks pattern of scientific approach using 3D body surface scan data, it need to analysis the rate of expansion and contraction of the lower body based on the movement, shear deformation, slip in fabrics and skin, or in fabrics and fabrics, and slip down from waist line.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제40권10호
• /
• pp.177-189
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권2호
• /
• pp.157-175
• /
• 2015

The study was aimed to develop a torso-type dress form representing body features of the female fashion models in Korea. To fulfill this purpose, 5 female fashion models aged between 20 and 26 having the average body measurements of professional fashion models in Korea were selected and their 3-D whole body scanned data were analysed. The 3-D whole body scanning method enabled to generate a virtual female fashion model within the CAD system by measuring the subjects' body shapes and sizes. In addition, the virtual model's body data led the development of a standard female fashion model dress form for the efficient fashion show preparation. In order to manufacture the real dress form for female fashion models, 3-D printing technology was adopted. The consequent results are as follows: (1) the body measurements (unit: cm) of the developed dress form were: biacromion length, 36.0, bust point to bust point, 16.6, front/back interscye lengths, 32.0/33.0, neck point to breast point, 26.0, neck point to breast point to waist line, 41.5, waist front/back lengths, 34.5/38.5, waist to hip length, 24.0, bust circumference, 85.0, underbust circumference, 75.0, waist circumference, 65.0, hip circumference, 92.0. (2) the body measurements differences between the developed and existing dress forms were highlighted with the body measurements of neck point to breast point and waist to hip length. (3) the body shape features of the developed dress form showed that bust, shoulder blade, shoulder slope, abdomen and back waist line to hip line parts were more realistically manufactured.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.153-158
• /
• 2004

With considerable development of comfortable and functional clothing in recent years, we need to evaluate the effects of garment pressure in daily wear on each parts of human body because the garment pressure is important to design the clothing. This study was designed to examine the effects of body postures on garment pressure on each parts of human body in the actual clothing conditions. All the data were collected from 50 volunteered subjects. The Garment pressure was measured in lune and December with 8 points CPMS clothing pressure system from scapular, upper am, elbow, under arm, front waist line, side waist line, abdomen, crista ilica, upper hip, middle hip, front thigh, back thigh, front knee and back knee. The postures of subjects were controlled with 3 positions such as standing (posture 1), sitting on the chair (posture 2), and sitting on the floor (posture 3) during measurement of clothing pressure. Clothing weights were more in men than in woman. It showed that clothing weights had no effects on the garment pressure. In this study, however, just the garment pressures on scapular and top of the hip increased significantly by clothing weight (p<. 05). Clothing horizontally pressed on scapular and top of hip but not on other parts. When subjects stood up, the garment pressure was the highest on the side waist. Especially, clothing pressure on the front waist point was lower than that of the left side waist. On the upper parts of the human body, the garment pressure of left side waist was the highest, and followed by front waist, crista ilica, and abdomen in order. When subjects were sitting on the chair, the garment pressure on the lower parts of the human body was the highest on the top of hip. When the subjects were sitting on the chair or on the floor, the surface area on their skin of hip and waist parts increased by postures. In addition, it showed that men felt more comfortable than women on higher clothing pressure level.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권5호
• /
• pp.13-28
• /
• 2006

The object of this study lies on classifying the size, which is mostly favored in Korea where the wedding dress is usually regarded as an article for rent, and on suggesting the range of sleeve design and that of neck line of bodice. For that, I extracted the average size by analyzing and researching the standard size of actual bodice from real wedding dress manufacturing company. According to the result of the research I named the standard size of Korean wedding dress for rent as 'WM' which has the girth of 88cm and the waist measure of 69cm. Based on the size 'WM', I also named the size 'WS' which has the girth of 82cm with extra length of 6cm up and down and the waist measure of 64cm with extra length of 5cm, and the size 'WL' which has the girth of 94cm and the waist measure of 74cm with same extra length as the size 'WS'. The extra space for the inseam of the back is 3 inches for left and right for all sizes and the mark of body size is standardized as 'girth-waist measure'. After that, I suggested the design types of sleeves and neck line of bodice which defined as its size by classifying the bodice of wedding dress based on its size. Generally the neck line of the tank top style has the widest range of wearable size, and the high neck line and bateau neck line types have the narrowest range. And the sleeveless type has the widest range of wearable size while the raglan type has the narrowest one.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제16권3호
• /
• pp.179-189
• /
• 2014

Peplums have a great advantage in easy styling for wearers to acquire desired physical and reminiscent images depending on the type and where it is placed on the waist line. However, the study of peplum blouses has not yet recognized. This study suggests a baseline data for visual appraisals as a determined key factor is changes. The result of this study as follows: First, peplums published between 2012 through 2014 collections are used for decorative effects on tops or bottoms as the finest decoration details of fashioning women's physical attractiveness. Its application has been extended to various fashion themes such as belts and overskirt that are made of peplum itself. Second, peplums published between 2012 through 2014 collections have close correlation of how the position, shape, and length of peplums are attached on bottoms. Peplum effects are categorized as extension of tops, expansion of bottoms, connections of tops and bottoms, and separation of tops and bottoms. Third, total of seventy nine peplum blouses that are found in the domestic online shopping mall are analyzed. The total length of peplum blouses are generally produced to 56 to 61cm, which is little shorter than or approximately equal to the hip line of women aged in between twenty to twenty four. In addition, the most popular peplum design is made of flare and cutting lines on the waist line and is 45.56% of samples. The most common location of peplums is identified as 3 to 6 cm above the natural waist line or the natural waist line and is 78.47% of samples. Fourth, the key factor of peplum blouse that can significantly influence the visual image is the total length of blouse, position of peplum, and peplum shape.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제20권1호
• /
• pp.3-18
• /
• 1996

The aim of this study is to clarify the style of fashion design which represented three types of erotic mood. And it will have its significance in finding out some standards which call be applied to practical designing. The positive analysis on this study is composed of two parts-the analysis of fashion journals and of questionaire. Analysis of fashion design is to seize and to compare frequence of 17 style of fashion design in the delivery of erotic mood in $\ulcorner$Mot$\lrcorner$ and $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$. The questionaire is to investigate preference and inclination of perception in erotic mood of 17 style of fashion design by sex and age. The results were as follows: 1) In $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$ than in $\ulcorner$Mot$\lrcorner$ erotic style ate actively made use of. 2) To suggest style of fashion design expressed 3 moods of erotic can be applied to practical designing is as follows. Expression of 'romantic & mysterious' mood is desirab]e exposed body line in motion style in male, twenties and thirties. Expression of 'seductive h stimulating' mood is desirable bosom exposure, leg exposure, adhere of bosom, adhere of waist, seen-through leg, slit, exposed body line in motion style in male and twenties and seen-through bosom, adhere of hip, slash style in male. This mood is desirable exposed body line motion style in thirties and forties. Expression of 'sensuous & attractive' mood is desirable bosom exposure, leg exposure, adhere of bosom, adhere of waist, seen-through leg, slit, exposed body line in motion style in male and twenties and adhere of hip, seen-through bosom, slash style ill male. And this mood is desirable adhere of waist, arm exposure style in female and adhere of waist, exposed body line in motif style in thirties and forties.