A virtual garment fitting system which fits the top and bottom of a garment on 3D body data is introduced. This system uses the laser scanned 3D body data and the digital images photographed the front and back of a garment. The digital images are modeled to reflect tensions among particles in the images and the friction and gravity effects are considered in the fitting process to the body data. When a bottom is fitted, a virtual belt to hold the bottom in the waist is introduced since gravity effects pull down it. Also the process for fitting the top and bottom on layers is proposed here. The system has the strengths that it uses only the front and back image of a garment instead of using complicated patterns of a garment, and provides a realistic fit result as a 3D figure. As on-line retailing shop in present displays front and back images of garments, this system also does. However this system provides a differentiated service to user than present retailing shop as showing a 3D fit image. It will make a new trend in online shop retailing of garment.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.32
no.1
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pp.99-109
/
2008
The purpose of this study was to survey sizing system and preferable ease and to decide the body measuring items for pattern making in a men's dress shirt for mass customization industry that is rising to the surface as a new production system. For this, it had a survey subjects were 254 males between 25 to 44 years old who wear dress shirt frequently and the relevant on line companies, and analyzed the garment sizing system and preferable ease. Collected data were analysed by frequency analysis, t-test, $X^2-test$, and ANOVA using SPSS 12.0 for window. Garment pattern making should reflect the sizes of the body parts well, and simplification of the ordering process would work as an important variable. In relation to the preferable ease, older people preferred more ease while younger people preferred fit ease. In relation to the sizes, people wearing the size of '110' preferred more ease than the size of '90'. And people weighing over 90kg preferred sufficient ease than less weighing. People height over 170cm people preferred sufficient ease for the length between shoulders than height under 170cm. In case of the companies had no consistent sizing system. Significant difference was found in the sizes, except for the size of '100', among those companies, there was significant difference in the length between shoulders and the length of the shirt among those companies and those sizes. Significant body parts for a garment pattern making was height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.2
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pp.187-199
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2009
Recently, the quality and design of the children's wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children's wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.
The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.32
no.5
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pp.846-858
/
2008
This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.
The purpose of this study is to identify the design features appropriate for the altered physical characteristics of pregnant women and formulate the direction of future design and development of maternity wear. A Delphi research method based on a panel of experts and pregnant women was used and the survey was conducted to determine the suitability of maternity wear. The survey found that A-line silhouette outerwear with round necklines, with wide sleeves and snap-button fastening on the front with a formal and decent look was considered appropriate as maternity and postpartum wear. Shirts and blouses long enough to cover the hip area to complement women's curvy and full figures, especially around the bust, waist, and hip areas during the later stages of pregnancy were found to be appropriate. Calf-length pleated skirts were comfortable to wear during pregnancy due to the abundant freedom of movement and space offered by pleats. Ankle-length straight leg pants were rated appropriate in terms of comfort and style both during late stages of pregnancy and at work postpartum. Dresses decorated with pleats from the armholes all the way down to the knees were found to provide high levels of comfort at the abdomen, chest, and hips, and considered appropriate. Based on this study results, a follow-up study will be conducted to examine the design of maternity wear during pregnancy as well as at work after pregnancy.
Femme Fatale in Film Noir is a wicked woman character who seduces the male partner to a ruin. In the film, the dress style is of extreme importance for the personality creation of the character as well as the development of the plot. With this background, I have looked over the Femme Fatale dress style that appears in the movie . First, it expresses Femme Fatale which stresses the feminine trait by a dress style with enlarged chest and hip parts and long, slim silhouette with tight waist and knee line. Second, the Femme Fatale with pretended purity presents narcissistic satisfaction like a saint virgin by wearing a neck-high one-piece dress embellished with frills, but the use of mirror represents self-alienation and the vanity of purity. Third, the Femme Fatale with its military dress style presents authoritative sternness which leads seduced male into ruin with its destructive power. Fourth, wearing jersey type or knitted wear that sticks to the body presents sensual Femme Fatale. Fifth, the tulle, chiffon, and white handkerchief used for the creation of grotesque Femme Fatale represents harmlessness and prohibition of immoral behavior, and the black gloves, pillbox, and the number on the tulle present her uneasy psychological state from the fear of being discovered after murdering her husband. On the other hand, the see-through tulle presents alluring sensual beauty. Sixth, the combination of the dialogue in the final sequence and drapery type as in Greek goddess represents the saint virgin of salvation who acknowledges her own fault and returns to her purity again. In addition, accessories and others made from shining material represent hidden conspiracy through simple dress and contradictory dynamics, and shoes embellished with bonbon, etc represent sexual implications in connection with male.
Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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v.25
no.5
/
pp.81-90
/
2020
In this paper, we propose setting measurement point in the 3D scan data based on the manual measurement data. The optimal 3D body scan postures and measurement points for automatic measurement of breast were set up. The outer breast point may be different depending on the body shape or standing posture as it is on the line connected from the bisecting point of the lateral waist thickness to front armpit point. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the breast-related outer point proposed in this study. And many researches need to reduce the differences between MAM and 3D dimension items associated with the upper breast point. When measuring depth, the difference by pressing in MAM should be taken into account. And the differences in flexion depending on breast type can make a difference in the 3D measurement. So the measurement method in 3D scan should be further studied depending on the types of breast and verified by multiple subjects.
The purpose of this study was to investigate current garment sizes of women's formal jackets, targeting plus-size women in online shopping malls, and to identify effective size information involved in online apparel purchase behaviors to overcome the short comings of current garment sizes from the perspectives of consumers. Basic 88 size formal jackets from the seven companies found on the 22 websites were collected and analyzed. The data were collected from March to October 2007, and analyzed using SPSS 14.0. The results were summarized as follows. First, there was no website using standard garment size labeling with 'bust-hip-height' set up by KS K 0051 among the 22 websites. Instead, all 22 websites used garment size labeling with figures such as 88, 99, 100, 110, and 120 or with letters such as L, XL, and XXL. The websites presented no body size, but listed garment size. Furthermore, the size information was presented differently, ranging from three items of bust circumference, upper arm length, and jacket length to six items of shoulder width, bust circumference, waist circumference, sleeve width, sleeve length, and jacket length. In addition, no website presented basic information for hip circumference, despite the jacket length covering the hips. Second, a total of 85.7% the websites listed bust circumferences in 88 garment sizes collected as 100cm. Shoulder widths were presented as 39cm or 37cm. Sleeve circumferences were addressed the same, 36cm, in all websites. Third, comparing the differences between guidance sizes and measurement sizes, only 28.5% of the web sites posted guidance sizes of shoulder widths the same as those of the measurement sizes. All web sites presented guidance sizes of bust circumstances as 1 to 5cm smaller than those of the measurement sizes.
The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.
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