• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.223-233
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• 2020

This study aims to analyze the influence of apparatus resources, organizational commitment, internal control on the accountability of village fund allocations with the level of education as a moderating. Accountability analysis of village fund allocation is carried out at every stage of planning, implementation stage, administration stage, reporting stage, and accountability stage. The study was conducted in 18 villages in Undaan District, Kudus Regency - Indonesia, with a total sample of 115 village officials. Structural Equation Model analysis techniques with Warp Partial Least Square were used to test the research hypotheses. The results showed that apparatus resources, organizational commitment, and internal control had a positive effect on the accountability of village fund allocations. The level of education strengthens the influence of apparatus resources on the accountability of village fund allocations. The findings of the study further prove that commitment has positive implications for achieving accountability. It means that the higher the commitment made by the government apparatus, the better and higher the effect on accountability in managing public funds. With an ethical commitment of the government apparatus in managing the budget, the use of funds can be in accordance with the planning and designation so that goals can be achieved.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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• 제7권9호
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• pp.727-736
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to investigate the contiguity of social capital and competence on business performance moderating by government policy. A total sample of 225 Village Credit Institution (LPDs) managers in Bali, the hypothesis is examined using the WarpPLS analysis. The findings reveal that social capital has an important role in enhancing performance, Competence is also an important factor for managers because it can intensify performance. Social capital is largely related to the recognition of society regarding the credibility of the managers, while competence emphasizes the ability of the managers to manage the organization. Government policy must be viewed as a regulation that is able to help improve performance. However, the public policies issued by the government are still unable to help improve social capital and competence. Thus, to create public policies that are able to improve the competence and social capital, a further examination into the variables must be conducted. The findings suggest that two-way communication must be developed and synergy between the government and organizations to create opportunities and overcome the increasingly complex business challenges. The results emphasized the importance of social capital in enhancing business performance. In addition, the role of competence is of equal importance to enhance business performance.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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• 제7권9호
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• pp.631-638
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• 2020

The intention of this research is to identify the effect of corporate social responsibility (CSR) disclosure on firm value with profitability as a moderating variable. Data collection is carried out with data documentation that is based on financial reports and sustainability reports. All companies listed on the Indonesia Stock Exchange (IDX) during the 2013-2017 period are considered as the population of this study. Samples were selected using the purposive sampling method. The following are criteria that would be used in this study: 1) publish a sustainability report using the GRI G4 standard as a reference in preparing reports for 2013-2016, 2) publish a complete financial report for the 2014-2017 observation period, 3) not experience a loss during the 2014-2017 period. The total sample of the study was 109 companies. The study uses path analysis assisted with WarpPLS software version 6.0. The results show that the disclosure of corporate social responsibility has a positive and significant effect on firm value, and profitability moderates the effect of corporate social responsibility disclosure on firm value. The implication of the research is that implementing corporate social responsibility is very important to increase firm's value and firm's sustainability in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제22권
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• pp.61-70
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• 1994

the purpose of study is to grasp the actual state of the textiles of Kojosun, Booyeo and Kogooryeo, by examining and studying about the excavated article of the textile of the Booyeo Age which was being gamered in the Research Institute of Study of antiquities of Civilization of gilimsung without being analyzed and examined after being excavated at September in 1990 and 1993, the textile of Kojosun Age wich was excavated and examined at East and North Gilimsung in China and the textile excavated and examined at the Kogooryeo grave at jiban China. 1. The kinds of textiles of Booye Age are warp kum plin weave silk plain weave bang gong Sa, and drawn and dyed textile, It is deemed that the real state of keum, Jeung and Hwi in the old literature of Sam guk Ji was grasped. 2. It emerges that more detailed wool than the wool fabric of China area of the same age was manufactured as the textile of Kojosun Age. hemp cloth corresponds to 12 Seung, in converting into fabric width of 50cm. 3. Keum was examined and reported as the textile of Kogooryeo Age and the real state of Woonkeum of Kogooryeo Age was grasped through "Wang ja moon keum" of Keumjang of mural of South and North I room of the grave that the same keum was excavated. The real state of dyed textile of hemp was grasped as the red hemp cloth was examined. Moreover the real state of development of advanced technique to weave with machine appeared by the grasp of inclination of loom with reed of Kogooryeo.Kogooryeo.

• Journal of Biomedical Engineering Research
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.491-498
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• 2002

In medical visualization fields, anisotropic volume data are more common than isotropic ones. In this paper, we propose an efficient rendering method for anisotropic volume data, which directly computes the intensity of intermediate samples by interpolating the intensity of two corresponding voxels on consecutive slices. Unlike conventional rendering method, it does not require a preprocessing step for generating intermediate slices or additional memory for storing them. In order to evaluate the validity and performance of our method, we applied the method to shear-warp rendering algorithm. Experimental results show that this method improves rendering speed without significantly sacrificing the image quality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.299-307
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• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.39-46
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• 1997

In this study, Two types of polyester fabrics were hydrolysed with NaOH using the CDR m/c of pad-steam type and the Sofleena m/c of liquor-flow type to determine the alkali hydrolysis properties of polyester fabrics. The results were as follows: Under the same conditions, the weight loss of charmeuse was about 0.5% and 2~3% higher than that of pebble with CDR m/c and with Sofleena m/c, respectively. The weft density of pebble decreased about 14picks/inch with CDR m/c and 3picks/inch with Sofleena m/c comparing to the untreated sample at 18% of weight loss, while the weft density of charmeuse decreased about 5picks/inch with CDR m/c and 2picks/inch with Sofleena m/c at 20% of weight toss. K/S value decreased almost identically within about 11% weight loss of pebble and 8% of charmeuse processed with both CDR and Sofleena. However, in the above these weight losses, K/S value of the fabrics processed with Sofleena was higher than that of fabrics processed with CDR. The bending rigidity of warp direction of the fabrics ($2{\times}10^{-2}gf.cm^2 /cm$ higher for charmeuse and ($7{\times}10^{-3}gf.cm^2 /cm$ higher for pebble) processed with CDR m/c was higher than that of the fabrics processed with Sofleena m/c.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.110-117
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to fabricate the flame retardant polyester fabric by thermal bonding with low melting component of flame retardant bicomponent filament(LMFRPC) and to describe the characteristics of thermal bonded fabrics. The fabrics were prepared with flame retardant polyester filaments(FRP) as warp and blended filaments of FRP and LMFRPC as weft. The LMFRPC have a sheath and a core wherein the core comprises a flame retardant polyester and the sheath comprises a thermoplastic polyester of low-melting point. In this study, we investigated the physical properties, melting behavior of filament, the effect of the component of FRP and LMFRPC on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties. Melting peak of LMFRPC showed the double melting peak. The thermal bonding of the fabric formed at lower melting peak temperature of bicomponent filament of LMFRPC. The optimum thermal bonding conditions for fabrics was applied at about $170^{\circ}C$ for 60 seconds by pin tenter. On the other hand, the tensile strength, elongation, and LOI of the fabric increased with an increasing component of FRP of weft.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.102-111
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• 2010

The pegging board planning for jacquard weaves was carried out to express a big enough design in 60 inch width. 20 Kinds of fabrics were fabricated by a jacquard loom with a warp density of 168 yarns/inch, a weft density of 100T, and a weight of 180-220g/$m^2$ or 250-300g/$m^2$. The result of sanitary test about Escherichia coli, Staphilococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Salmonella typhimurium showed a sterilizing power of over 90% after cultivating for 30, 60, 120 minutes. And also its property was sustained after laundrying 20 times. The flame retardant properties showed a good result and complied with the flame retardant criteria of KOFEI 1001. Abrasion, laundry and light fastnesses of flame retardant fabrics showed 4-5 grades. The fabrics manufactured from 30's fiber appeared a little fluff and pill on the fabric. Therefore, they need a shearing process after finishing all processes to decrease the fluff or pill on the fabric. The flame retardant fabric manufactured from 30's and 40's fiber showed increased strength and elongation after soaping and dyeing finishing because the fabrics were shrunk.