• Title/Summary/Keyword: Vogue

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Study of Hippy style in 1960s France (60년대 불란서 히피복식에 관한 연구)

  • 이인성
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.35 no.6
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 1997
  • Hipp8ie style was introduced in 1960s when young generation's movement against industrial society and mass culture was spread. Its value was to go back to "Real and Pure Nature". Hippie originated from "Human Be-in" which was on-violent revolution held in sanfrancisco. American Hippie style was represented through freedom and love based on drug and psychedelic culture which were created by the young generation who were against traditional esthetic value as well as the moral and material value. However, Hippie style was represented differently in France. The privilege classes such as artists who were interested in surrealism, art negro and primitive culture, the intelligentsia like Montparnass in Paris, accepted Hippie style faster than ordinary people did. therefor, Hippie style in france was represented as an esthetic mode not a symbol of anti-culture and anti-policy. The general public imitated the style of the privileged classes and coordinated their style according to their personality without any standard such as blue jeans, ethnic, psychedelic, mini, mods, beatnik, etc. Yves Saint Laurent who was influenced by hippies led the mode of Paris to introduce "Africa", "Saharienne", "Pathwork". therefore, in 1960's fashion in Paris, everything was possible because of too many changes in fashion and refusal of accepting vogue.

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Abdominal Epilepsy Misdiagnosed as Acute Surgical Condition in Childhood (소아에서 급성 복증으로 오진될 수 있는 복성 간질)

  • Shim, Ooh-Shin;Jung, Poong-Man
    • Advances in pediatric surgery
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.170-176
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    • 1995
  • Abdominal epilepsy is accepted as unusual cause of abdominal pain in children and young adolescents. Although its abdominal symptoms may be similar to those of the irritable bowel syndrome, it may be distinguished from the latter condition by the presence of the altered consciousness during some of attacks, EEG abnormalities, and a good response to anticonvulsant medication. The diagnosis of abdominal epilepsy came into vogue in the 1950s and 1960s as an explanation for childhood abdominal complaints. More recently, it has been recognized that isolated vomiting without loss of consciousness or other more common paroxysmal symtoms is rarely attributable to abdominal epilepsy. We report 4 cases of abdominal epilepsy, whose ages ranged from 8 to 11 years, with paroxysmal abdominal pain or vomiting consistent with a diagnosis of abdominal epilepsy.

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The Grotesque in the Work of Alexander McQueen (알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander Mcqueen) 작품의 그로테스크적 특성)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.8
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    • pp.106-119
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    • 2008
  • This study explores grotesque characteristics that were raised as the Aesthetics of the Ugly and how it was featured in Alexander McQueen's arts. In a methodological approach, the study attempted the analysis of historical literature that was published both nationally and internationally, along with justifiable investigation using fashion/collection magazines such as Vogue, Gap and Internet search. The scope of this study ranges from 1996's Haute Couture and Pret-a-porter collection pieces modern, to date The results of this study are summarized as follows: The first grotesque characteristic present throughout Alexander Mcqueen's arts is that it featured horrifying images or evil motives with pointy heads or horns, dark colored dresses, silver accessories, Dracula, witches, skulls, soldiers of evil, death and sickness. Second, aversion was realistically portrayed by frightening objects, extreme intimacy and motives that signify death and closely relative to cruelty to human bodies. It also became visible with physical destruction of the bodies and dissecting of internal organs, etc. Thirdly, its expression of humor is out of common sense with distorted human bodies by intentionally overemphasizing certain portion of the clothes or body parts. It also featured strangely deformed bodies by ignoring the typical shapes of clothes, vague definition of gender and using of unusual objects. Forth, half-man and half-beast images are portrayed using various types of bird species or animals to Identify disparity. It further defined this image in the form of non-human cyborg by incorporating technology.

An Analysis on Priority of Clothing Evaluative Criteria using AHP (AHP를 이용한 의복평가기준의 우선순위 분석)

  • Cho, Youn-Joo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.81-88
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    • 2007
  • This study aimed to develop priorities alternatives based on relative rather than absolute assignments on clothing evaluative criteria. The relative comparison approach includes much redundancy and is thus less sensitive to judgemental errors common to techniques using absolute assignments. By deriving evaluative criteria for consumers in choosing clothing, and considering their relative important or value in the priority of evaluation elements. When the consumer selects clothing, it requires multi-criteria decision making exercise and needs to make trade-offs between different alternatives. With an application of the AHP's hierarchical structuring and pair-wise comparisons, this study will determine the weight and priorities of evaluation factor in clothing evaluative criteria in choosing cloth, which will eventually lead to improve management. Items for the setting priority were decided as 'symbol', 'practicality', 'economy', 'vogue', and 'aesthetic' by council. The data for this research were collected from respondents of 108 females in Busan. Data were analyzed by frequency and AHP. As the results, 'economy' was decided as a most important item. And 'a fashionable color' evaluated as that of first priority in the totality evaluation elements.

Does Economy Dictate Hemline Move? -Verification of the Hemline Theory- (경제와 헴라인의 상관관계 -헴라인 이론의 검증-)

  • Ahn, Insook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.39 no.5
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    • pp.755-764
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    • 2015
  • This study investigates if the relationships between hemline and macro-economic factors (rGDP, recession, and unemployment) are still applicable as well as analyzes time lags that reflect economic factors on the hemline index using U.S. data. The hemline theory and fashion cyclical theory were applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the hemline measurements of women's day-wear were obtained from US Vogue spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. Data were standardized by dividing the length from shoulder to hemline by the length from the shoulder to ankle. I aggregated 2260 samples and hemline data to create a yearly average. This study used OLS of Stata 13 program to explore the relationship between macro-economic factors and hemline. The main findings were the recession and unemployment influenced hemline length for four years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of previous recession and unemployment on the current hemline were very close to the significant level respectively. This finding supports the hemline theory in that a recessionary economy is related to longer hemlines and hemlines become shorter in flourishing economic periods.

A Study of Trompe l'oeil Expressions in Modern Fashion - With a Special Reference to Those Since 2000 - (현대패션에 나타난 Trompe l'oeil 표현에 관한 연구 - 2000년 이후를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.4
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    • pp.597-605
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    • 2010
  • This study is about the expression types and characteristics of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion. The study defines the concept of Trompe l'oeil, examines the Trompe l'oeil in the surrealist works from which the Trompe l'oeil derives from, and analyzes the works that have emerged since 2000. The study used a collection of magazines such as Vogue, Gap, Fashion News, and the Internet. According to the findings, the expression types of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion were seen in the human body, the wearing style, the details, and accessory effects of clothes. The modern fashion design using the Trompe l'oeil based on such external expressions was characterized by the following: first, the fashion design destroyed the concept of common sense and expressed the purity of the human spirit by revealing the human body hidden in clothes from the combination of clothes and the human body with surrealism. Second, the details or accessories of clothes were printed or painted as if they existed. Pleasure was expressed by applying Trompe l'oeil to the wearing methods and forms of clothes through the optical illusion of materials or colors. Third, the effects of an optical illusion were displayed by transforming and distorting the wearing style and reversing the front, back, exterior and interior of clothes; this optical illusion characterized the deconstruction expressed through the transformation of ideas.

Case Study Color Analysis of Work Clothes and Industrial Factories for Coordinating Environment Planning -Focus on Shipbuilding Companies- (통합환경 계획을 위한 작업복과 작업현장의 색채실태 사례연구 -조선업체를 중심으로-)

  • Park, Hye-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.3
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    • pp.540-552
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    • 2010
  • This research forms preliminary data for the coordination of environmental color planning in industry through a color analysis of work clothes and the work environment. A digital camera was used to study the work environment of two major shipbuilding companies located in Geoje city and Goseong county. The picture data was analyzed as G (ground: environment) and F (figure: clothes), and analyzed hue, value, and the chroma value through a Muncell conversion 9.0.6 from the color cluster, number of pixel, and RGB value. The results are as follows: First, GY, Y color were mostly used in the shipbuilding environment and work clothes. The color value was used in a relatively wide range but very low chroma (0-3), dark grayish, grayish tone dominated both fields. Second, the use of limited colors cannot be secured for safety in attention of the shipbuilding field. Third, unclear and vogue colors lessened the optical tiredness of workers that helped in the prevention of industrial accidents. Color combination and color selection should be considered for a secure safety color coordination between work clothes and the work environment when it comes to complicated color principles.

A Comparative Study of Textile Printing and Traditional Screen Printing (디지털 텍스타일 프린팅과 재래식 스크린 날염의 비교연구)

  • 정용순
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.363-372
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    • 2004
  • In the new millenium of information and digital age, the vogue cycle has been gelling shorter and shorter and the individualistic and high quality preference of contemporary consumers drive the small quantity production by order. The traditional screen printing system can not hold the competitive edge anymore. In order to actively meet the demand of the fast evolving market, compete with other nations, and produce high value-added products, we need the new production system to meet the individual needs promptly. Mass production using the traditional screen printing system has the economic advantage of the production speed and cost. The digital textile printing system digitalizes the total process from the design to the printing and omits the separation and engraving. It is more suitable to produce the multiple item-small quantity and add more values to its products. It has also the advantage of less pollution problem.

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A Study on the Fashion Design of Velvet (벨벳(Velvet ; 첨모직물(添毛織物))의 패션 디자인 연구(硏究) - 벨벳의 종류(種類)와 그 상징성(象徵性)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Chung, So-Young;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.49-56
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    • 1998
  • This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

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Study on Original Design Features of First Ladies' Evening Dresses - Comparison of Jacqueline's Styles and Later First Ladies' Styles -

  • Lee, Young-Jae
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.16 no.3
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    • pp.95-106
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    • 2012
  • Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (July 28, 1929 - May 19, 1994) was served as First Lady of the United States in the early 1960s. Her fashion styles are analyzed into the elements of designs, and the features of Jackie look are assorted. A variety of sources about women's suits for the 21st century are suggested in the research. Jackie's taste in fashion, her fashion image are searched. In addition, after Jackie, other nine fashionable First Ladies' evening dresses are compared to Jackie's dresses so as to see if there are similarities between their styles. Based on this data, the typical First Lady's look is classifiable. The purpose of this study is to furnish the industry with basic information which helps create high value fashion design. Most of Jackie's evening dresses had the straight - sheath silhouettes, and the round or bateau necklines without collars. Pale tones like white predominated in her dresses, and patternless colorful silk, silky and bright texture of cloth was used for the dresses. Elegance and classic represented her image. Design features of Jackie look are the straight silhouette, the simple line excluded adornments, and the fine quality of cloth. There has been little change in other nine First Ladies' evening dresses since Jackie. They weren't influenced by the vogue at that time, but they kept the style the way Jackie did. Jackie style is the beginning of the typical first lady look, that is.