• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is for considering about Zen fashion in the point of view of culture transition. Through this research, the Far-East including Korea will be confirmed as a center of fashion culture in 21st century. The contents are the meaning of culture transition in Post Modern period, the meaning of Zen and changing of fashion trend as the background of Zen Fashion, and the characteristics of Zen fashion design. The results are as follows: Anti-western movement or dismantlement of culture has been represented the limitation of western centered culture. So the interesting about East means the changing to east from west in ideas. To make new creation in fashion field, the comprehension about the western fashion which has been preceeded and new trials using the our tradition will be needed. Zen is a kind of Buddhism and the essence of it is to find myself and express individual experiences. The change of one's sens of value, new age movement and concerning of environment and ecology make more comfortable, simple and healthy elements in clothing. The fusion style is under a vogue in life style and Zen is the core of this trend. The characteristics of Zen fashion are flat dismantlement which has been know as a Japanese style, oriental minimalism and nature beauty of ecology. This characteristics are found not only the shape, color but the will of the behind. The pursing temperance and naturalism are represented the fashion culture transition from the West to Far-East. Therefore multi points of fashion research is very important and the identify about Korean fashion is required in lately for new fashion paradigm.

• 정보관리연구
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• 제41권4호
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• pp.93-118
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• 2010

본 연구는 KESLI 컨소시엄을 안정적으로 운영하기 위한 실천 가능한 대응 전략을 마련하도록 유도하려는 연구목적에 따라 외국 문헌연구를 통해 전자저널 컨소시엄의 당면과제를 국내와 비교하여 해결방안을 도출하였다. 연구된 주요 당면과제는 학술커뮤니케이션 변화와 전자저널 비중 증대, 빅딜 계약중심의 컨소시엄 가격 모델 성행, 컨소시엄의 가격 인상과 예산 확보 곤란, 이용통계 표준화에 의한 분석 결과의 활용, 아카이빙 및 아카이브 보장의 불확실성, 계약과 서비스 조건의 외부 공개 가능성 등 6개 항목으로 정리하였다. 연구결과 국내외 전자저널 컨소시엄 연구동향과 이슈는 대체로 유사하지만 내용과 연구의 깊이는 달라 국내에서 전자저널 컨소시엄에 대해 더 많은 연구와 보고가 KESLI를 중심으로 이루어져 합리적 인식과 과학적 근거에 기반한 문제제기와 대안제시가 실무현장에서 더 활성화될 필요가 있었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the Muslim fashion that has recently appeared in the global fashion collection to see how the global fashion brand expresses Muslim's traditional costumes so as to provide references in design development to prepare for the larger Muslim fashion market in the future. In order to analyze Muslim fashion, keywords related to Muslims such as "Muslim," "Islamic fashion" and "hijab" were searched on Google, Samsung Design Net and Vogue websites, and a total of 370 fashion photos were selected for the final data, which was judged to reflect Muslim fashion styles after a review by four clothing experts. Muslim fashion styles have the following characteristics: Above all, the use of veils was most noticeable, with many T-shaped loose long tunic dresses. The hijab, which had the highest proportion of veils, was used to produce various images with wide range of materials and colors. Achromatic colors were the most common, but more than three colors were used to create an exotic image. There have also been cases of using direct religious images such as arabesque patterns and mosques and Muslim priests. As a final, Muslim fashion styles were studied follow: first, a unique style using a veil. Second, conservative style with minimal exposure, third, restrained long-and-lose fit style, fourth, exotic style by elaborate pattern. The domestic fashion industry is also expected to generate economic demand if it is designed with reference to such collection trends along with market research on Muslim consumers.

• 대한건축학회논문집:계획계
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• 제35권11호
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• pp.89-100
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• 2019

In modern Korean architecture, some of school buildings have been referred to as Tudor Gothic style by its design elements. But, to be more exact in detail, they have to be interpreted as a Collegiate Gothic style that has occurred in the United States since the mid-19th century. Therefore, this study explains the progress of Collegiate Gothic style in the United States through the literature published since the 19th century, and examines the adoptation process of Korea. In addition, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of American Collegiate Gothic style and the elements of Collegiate Gothic style universally adopted in Korea, and then attempts a new interpretation on the representative Collegiate Gothic architecture in Korea. The results of this research are as follows. The Collegiate Gothic style in the United States caused by the change of educational environment in the 19th century was accepted for religious purposes by foreign architects such as Henry K. Murphy and W. Vories, and was also accepted by domestic architects who were directly influenced by Western architecture such as Park, Dong-jin. In addition, the accepted Collegiate Gothic style shows common features not only in the decoration of Tudor Gothic but also in the material and compositional aspects such as the quadrangle plans and the rock-faced exterior facades. From the point of view of the Collegiate Gothic style then in vogue at many schools and universities, further researches will be needed to interpret modern school architectures in Korea.

• 영미문화
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.53-92
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• 2018

This essay aims to examine chick lit written within the Asian American context. For the most part, the chick lit genre has been typically regarded as a site to study contemporary white women's experiences and to debate the genres' credentials as feminist literature. Though some may disagree, there is general consensus that chick lit has fallen out of vogue after reaching its peak in the first decade of the new millenium.; nevertheless, it is being revisited by readers and critics alike as it has recently re-emerged as a location upon which to examine how race and gender inform notions of national belonging and female subject formation in the twenty-first century. To this end, this essay reads Kim Wong Keltner's The Dim Sum of All Things (2004). Keltner's protagonist Lindsey Owyang is yet another twentysomething "chick" looking for love, self, independence, and success in the huge megalopolis of San Francisco. What sets Lindsey apart from the chick prototype is that she is a third-generation ABC (American-born Chinese) and issues relevant to Asian America frequently make their way into Lindsey's narrative. Though it is generally considered as standing a "few notches above the standard chick-lit fare" (Stover n. pag), I would argue that meaningful reflections on many of the major pillars of Asian American literature, history, and cultural politics are glossed over in favor of cursory musings about the daily vicissitudes of Lindsey's life. This essay thus takes to task Ferriss's claim that a "serious" consideration of chick lit "brings into focus many of the issues facing contemporary women and contemporary culture - issues of identity, of race and class, of femininity and feminism, of consumerism and self-image" (2). I contend that a close examination of Keltner's The Dim Sum of All Things discloses that the chick lit format undermines a "serious consideration" of Asian American issues by presenting in particular a highly problematic representation of race and of Asian American femininity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• 한국건설안전학회 논문집
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2021

현재 유행하고 있는 COVID-19는 '세계보건기구' 설립 이래 가장 많은 사망자가 발생한 대유행이다. 수많은 건설 프로젝트에도 상당한 영향을 미칠 것으로 예상된다. COVID-19가 건설업계를 강타한 이후, 그들이 감당해야 할 위험은 매년 줄어들었다. 그러나 COVID-19의 장기화로 인해 대기 지연, 자재 공급, 경제적 손실의 위험이 증가했다. 정확한 대책은 파악이 필요할 것이며 현재 건설사업 중 리스크가 더 큰 비중으로 완화될 수 있어야 한다. 따라서 이번 연구는 COVID-19로 인해 국내 건설사에 건설사업에 영향을 미친 위험요소를 분석하고 규명하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 이전 건설 프로젝트의 리스크를 바탕으로 조사, 가중치 부여 등을 통해 리스크 사례 연구, COVID-19 관련 리스크 등을 추출한다. 각 위험 요소는 AHP 분석 기법을 기반으로 계산된다. 이에 따라 COVID-19로 인해 건설공사 리스크 연구 결과가 달라질 것으로 예상된다. 그것은 현재 상황과 이후의 전염병 상황에 대처하기 위해 제시될 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.165-181
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• 2022

The fashion industry is creating innovative business models using artificial intelligence. To efficiently utilize artificial intelligence (AI), fashion data must be classified. Until now, such data have been classified focusing only on the objective properties of fashion products. Their subjective attributes, such as fashion brand sensibilities, are holistic and heuristic intuitions created by a combination of design elements. This study aims to improve the performance of collaborative filtering in the fashion industry by extracting fashion brand sensibility using computer vision technology. The image data set of fashion brand sensibility consists of high-end fashion brand photos that share sensibilities and communicate well in fashion. About 26,000 fashion photos of 11 high-end fashion brand sensibility labels have been collected from the 16FW to 21SS runway and 50 years of US Vogue magazines beginning from 1971. We use EfficientNet-B1 to establish the main architecture and fine-tune the network with ImageNet-ILSVRC. After training fashion brand sensibilities through deep learning, the proposed model achieved an F-1 score of 74% on accuracy tests. Furthermore, as a result of comparing AI machine and human experts, the proposed model is expected to be expanded to mass fashion brands.