• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study was aimed to make clear fashion is an expression art displaying not only functional or commercial aspects, but creative functions as an artistic work by analyzing Art Mode and its values, and to help develop more creative design by combining fashion with art. In terms of method, relevant documents, precedent studies, and the works announced in domestic and foreign fashion collections, such as Vogue, Fashion News, Gap, and Collections from 2000 to 2009. According to the findings, artistic works were used by the Art Mode in modern fashion. The respect of artists was expressed using historic famous painting works or current works in various fields, designers' individuality was shown by directly applying work messages to clothes, and fashion design was converted into a tool to communicate the messages like artistic works. Second, the various styles, using the formative character of modern art styles from animalism to modern abstractism, showed the creativity of design, transformed art into the art that enables to see the image of modern art, and presented the possibility of developing into a newer creative design through the application of numerous art styles and the transformation of ideas. Third, the collaboration with artists was used. Fashion designers or fashion brands tried to change the images of works or brands in partnership with artists or to increase differentiated images. The future direction of fashion is a pursuit of new form and content to express fashion, not simply to use artistic works. It is expected that such pursuit will lead to more creative and artistic fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.103-110
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• 2007

Ubiquitous computing is a vogue word, and its service is very popular in Korea. However, present ubiquitous service(u-Service) is thought to be more oriented to the provider's point of view, not the consumer's. To complement this problem, an online survey was performed for internet users, which consists of 24 single choice questions on six fields such as transportation, healthcare, environment/city-management, culture/education, administration, and industry. 2463 people joined the survey, who were grouped according to their age, resident region, level of education, and sex. Each group's demand for specific field of u-Service was examined. General level of demand was higher in case of the elderly and male than the younger and female for overall u-Service.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.217-227
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• 1998

Male underclothing during this period preserved in the shirt its former qualities though somewhat diminished. The habit of leaving much of the waist coat unbuttoned to display the fine quality of the shirt was more than evidence of social ranks : it appears to have had its attractions to the other sex. But in other respects man's underclothing was sinking into obscurity. This was due, in a great measure, to the closer fit of his suit, designed to exhibit the shape of his legs in breeches and stockings, leaving little opportunity for the display of garments beneath. With the latter part of the eighteenth century man's underclothing ceased to serve for sex attraction, a function on it has never regained, while continuing -in the shirt front and cuffs- to indicate class distinction, until, in modern times, that too has disappeared. The term 'smart' was coming into vogue to indicated the well-dressed man, and for at least a century after, the word implied tightfitting garments which, of necessity, reduced underclothing to a very subordinate function, so that only the shirt front survived for display purpose. Artificial calves was introduced by the Macaronis its purpose was to accenturate the captirating shapelines of the calf of the leg appearing below the tight breeches of the period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.661-673
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.873-889
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• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1728-1737
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• 2001

1760년대 말의 미국문화는 전통적인 가치관에 반발하는 청년문화운동의 화산으로 특징지을 수 있는데 이러한 사회적인 변화는 복식에 새롭고 혁신적인 스타일을 가져오게 되는 요인이 되었다. 특히 이 시기의 미국의 청년층에 의해 일어난 반문화적인 현상으로 인식되어 온 동앙문화의 도입은 미국의 여성복식에 tie-dyeing(홀치기염)패션의 출현으로 복식에 반영되었다. 이에, 본 연구는 지금까지 복식 학자들에 의한 단편적인 추론으로만 설명되어 왔던 1960년대 말 미국여성복식에 나타난 홀치기염 패션의 특성에 관하여 문화적인 배경에 관한 고찰과 함께 이 시기에 출판된 정기 간행물을 연구의 일차자료로 이용하여 실증적으로 분석하는 데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법으로는 1955년부터 1975년 사이에 출판된 Vogue와 Mademoiselle 잡지에 실린 홀치기염 패션 사진자료를 내용분석법을 이용하여 수집하여 의류품목, 소재, 기법, 디자이너 및 제조업 체에 관한 내용으로 나누어 분석하였다. 연구 결과, 두 종류의 잡지 모두에서 다양한 소재로 만들어진 여러 의류품목에 각종 기법으로 적용되었던 홀치기염 패션이 이 시기에 나타나, 청년층에서 시작되었던 이 패션이 미국의 대중 및 상류층의 복식에도 확산되었음이 밝혀졌다. 나아가 홀치기염 패션스타일이 가장 많이 보여졌던 1969년에서 1971년 사이의 기간은 청년층의 반문화적 현상이 절정을 이루었던 시기와 일치하고 있어서 이러한 급진적인 사회 현상이 그대로 패션에도 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.607-620
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to identify the variables which could predict advertisement preference and intention to purchase product in sexuality-oriented fashion advertising. The data were collected using questionnaires which contained nine advertisements of Guess jeans, selected from Vogue magazine published from 1990 to 1996.441 college students (female= 225, male=216) living in Seoul, Korea participated in the study. The data were analyzed by factor analysis and stepwise elimination method of multiful regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows: First, seven factors of New Young Generation oriented characteristics were identified: fashion, individuality, preferences of caffa or reggae bar with affective mood, expression of emotion, individualism, preferences of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes and activity of fan club/chatting through personal computers. Three factors of fashion advertising involvement were identified: social involvement, hedonic involvement and utilitarian involvement. Second, the variables which predicted preferences of advertisements in sexuality-oriented fashion advertising were perceived eroticism levels, hedonic involvenent, prior brand attitude and preference of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes in the case of females, while perceived eroticism levels, hedonic involvenent prior brand attitude, preference of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes and activity of fan club/ chatting through personal computers were identified as predictor variables for males. Third, the intention to purchase product was predicted by preference of a foreign-made product/western culture oriented tastes, prior brand attitude, hedonic involvenent and fashion for females, and by perceived eroticism levels, fashion opinion leadership, hedonic involvenent and prior brand attitude in the case of males.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.