• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is for considering about Zen fashion in the point of view of culture transition. Through this research, the Far-East including Korea will be confirmed as a center of fashion culture in 21st century. The contents are the meaning of culture transition in Post Modern period, the meaning of Zen and changing of fashion trend as the background of Zen Fashion, and the characteristics of Zen fashion design. The results are as follows: Anti-western movement or dismantlement of culture has been represented the limitation of western centered culture. So the interesting about East means the changing to east from west in ideas. To make new creation in fashion field, the comprehension about the western fashion which has been preceeded and new trials using the our tradition will be needed. Zen is a kind of Buddhism and the essence of it is to find myself and express individual experiences. The change of one's sens of value, new age movement and concerning of environment and ecology make more comfortable, simple and healthy elements in clothing. The fusion style is under a vogue in life style and Zen is the core of this trend. The characteristics of Zen fashion are flat dismantlement which has been know as a Japanese style, oriental minimalism and nature beauty of ecology. This characteristics are found not only the shape, color but the will of the behind. The pursing temperance and naturalism are represented the fashion culture transition from the West to Far-East. Therefore multi points of fashion research is very important and the identify about Korean fashion is required in lately for new fashion paradigm.

• Journal of Information Management
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.93-118
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• 2010

This study was aimed to establish a workable strategies to operate KESLI consortium reliably. To encourage the research purposes, it was mainly investigated international literature on current challenges for the e-journals consortium in comparison with the domestic implications. Major issues and challenges are divided to six items by scholarly communication changes and e-journals percentage increase, a big deal for a contract -based consortium pricing model in vogue, a consortium of the price hikes and making budget difficulties, use the standard statistics by the results of the use, archiving and archive security uncertainty, and contracts public availability of such external conditions. As a result, the international challenges of E-journals consortium was similar to KESLI, but the depth of information and research on domestic was weaker than the international research. To see more research and a rational perception based on scientific evidence and alternatives that enable KESLI working in the field was needed to be.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the Muslim fashion that has recently appeared in the global fashion collection to see how the global fashion brand expresses Muslim's traditional costumes so as to provide references in design development to prepare for the larger Muslim fashion market in the future. In order to analyze Muslim fashion, keywords related to Muslims such as "Muslim," "Islamic fashion" and "hijab" were searched on Google, Samsung Design Net and Vogue websites, and a total of 370 fashion photos were selected for the final data, which was judged to reflect Muslim fashion styles after a review by four clothing experts. Muslim fashion styles have the following characteristics: Above all, the use of veils was most noticeable, with many T-shaped loose long tunic dresses. The hijab, which had the highest proportion of veils, was used to produce various images with wide range of materials and colors. Achromatic colors were the most common, but more than three colors were used to create an exotic image. There have also been cases of using direct religious images such as arabesque patterns and mosques and Muslim priests. As a final, Muslim fashion styles were studied follow: first, a unique style using a veil. Second, conservative style with minimal exposure, third, restrained long-and-lose fit style, fourth, exotic style by elaborate pattern. The domestic fashion industry is also expected to generate economic demand if it is designed with reference to such collection trends along with market research on Muslim consumers.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.89-100
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• 2019

In modern Korean architecture, some of school buildings have been referred to as Tudor Gothic style by its design elements. But, to be more exact in detail, they have to be interpreted as a Collegiate Gothic style that has occurred in the United States since the mid-19th century. Therefore, this study explains the progress of Collegiate Gothic style in the United States through the literature published since the 19th century, and examines the adoptation process of Korea. In addition, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of American Collegiate Gothic style and the elements of Collegiate Gothic style universally adopted in Korea, and then attempts a new interpretation on the representative Collegiate Gothic architecture in Korea. The results of this research are as follows. The Collegiate Gothic style in the United States caused by the change of educational environment in the 19th century was accepted for religious purposes by foreign architects such as Henry K. Murphy and W. Vories, and was also accepted by domestic architects who were directly influenced by Western architecture such as Park, Dong-jin. In addition, the accepted Collegiate Gothic style shows common features not only in the decoration of Tudor Gothic but also in the material and compositional aspects such as the quadrangle plans and the rock-faced exterior facades. From the point of view of the Collegiate Gothic style then in vogue at many schools and universities, further researches will be needed to interpret modern school architectures in Korea.

• English & American cultural studies
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.53-92
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• 2018

This essay aims to examine chick lit written within the Asian American context. For the most part, the chick lit genre has been typically regarded as a site to study contemporary white women's experiences and to debate the genres' credentials as feminist literature. Though some may disagree, there is general consensus that chick lit has fallen out of vogue after reaching its peak in the first decade of the new millenium.; nevertheless, it is being revisited by readers and critics alike as it has recently re-emerged as a location upon which to examine how race and gender inform notions of national belonging and female subject formation in the twenty-first century. To this end, this essay reads Kim Wong Keltner's The Dim Sum of All Things (2004). Keltner's protagonist Lindsey Owyang is yet another twentysomething "chick" looking for love, self, independence, and success in the huge megalopolis of San Francisco. What sets Lindsey apart from the chick prototype is that she is a third-generation ABC (American-born Chinese) and issues relevant to Asian America frequently make their way into Lindsey's narrative. Though it is generally considered as standing a "few notches above the standard chick-lit fare" (Stover n. pag), I would argue that meaningful reflections on many of the major pillars of Asian American literature, history, and cultural politics are glossed over in favor of cursory musings about the daily vicissitudes of Lindsey's life. This essay thus takes to task Ferriss's claim that a "serious" consideration of chick lit "brings into focus many of the issues facing contemporary women and contemporary culture - issues of identity, of race and class, of femininity and feminism, of consumerism and self-image" (2). I contend that a close examination of Keltner's The Dim Sum of All Things discloses that the chick lit format undermines a "serious consideration" of Asian American issues by presenting in particular a highly problematic representation of race and of Asian American femininity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Construction Safety
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2021

COVID-19, which is currently in vogue, is a pandemic with the largest number of deaths since the establishment of the "World Health Organization". It is also expected to have a significant impact on countless construction projects. After COVID-19 hit the construction industry, the risk that they needed to cover, decreased every year. However, the prolonged COVID-19 increased the risks of air delays, material supply, and economic losses. The exact measurements will be needed to be identified and the risks of the current construction projects must have a mitigated risk with a greater proportion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze and identify the risks that have influenced construction projects to the domestic construction companies due to COVID-19. Based on the risks of the previous construction projects, risk case studies, and risks related to COVID-19, are extracted through surveys, weights. Each risk factor are calculated based on the AHP analysis technique. Thus, it is expected that the results of the risk research on construction projects will change due to COVID-19. It will be presented to cope with the current situation and later pandemic situations.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.165-181
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• 2022

The fashion industry is creating innovative business models using artificial intelligence. To efficiently utilize artificial intelligence (AI), fashion data must be classified. Until now, such data have been classified focusing only on the objective properties of fashion products. Their subjective attributes, such as fashion brand sensibilities, are holistic and heuristic intuitions created by a combination of design elements. This study aims to improve the performance of collaborative filtering in the fashion industry by extracting fashion brand sensibility using computer vision technology. The image data set of fashion brand sensibility consists of high-end fashion brand photos that share sensibilities and communicate well in fashion. About 26,000 fashion photos of 11 high-end fashion brand sensibility labels have been collected from the 16FW to 21SS runway and 50 years of US Vogue magazines beginning from 1971. We use EfficientNet-B1 to establish the main architecture and fine-tune the network with ImageNet-ILSVRC. After training fashion brand sensibilities through deep learning, the proposed model achieved an F-1 score of 74% on accuracy tests. Furthermore, as a result of comparing AI machine and human experts, the proposed model is expected to be expanded to mass fashion brands.