• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.135-144
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• 2008

The reason that we are familiar with fashion from the 1950s is because of the work such as New Look done by a french fashion designer, Christian Dior who had taken on an almost mythical significance by his name. Moreover, in the sense of popularity, the appearance of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, two typical Hollywood actresses who each has directly-opposed image, is the symbol of youthful America of the 1950s and represents the remarkable start of the American fashion. Still, these days designers and mass medias recall the fashion from the 50s remaking and parodying it to suit public's taste. Being due to the World War II, Europe suffered not only the loss of its national tradition and reputation but also got a fatal blow politically and economically. On the other hand, the United States of America occupied a primary position in the world and outstandingly became the most powerful country. The American fashion of the 1950s represents youth and newness and rejects outdated and outmoded style. In this period, appears the indication which announces previously the youth culture. Poodle skirt is the fashion item that acquired popularity among young american women and girls in the late 1950s. In effect, it is the fashion as American as apple pie. A costly A-line skirt had been transformed into a cheap felt skirt. Instead of a real poodle dog which was carried by French women like an accessory, they embroidered a poodle dog on the lower edge of their skirt. As deriding the snobbish gait, they swayed themselves frantically to the rhythm of Rock n' Roll which swept those days. This was an attitude of young Americans against the existing trend of Europe. Poodle skirt showed the free spirit and intention of young people unbound to custom and established vogue. In addition, in the aspect of comprising the American spirit of independent, pioneer, and subjective American people, it goes beyond the bounds of common concept of fad. Poodle skirt is an unique symbol of the 1950s' American fashion which prognosticates the advent of the United States and the success in modern fashion world which was changing after 1950s.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.29-45
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide base line data required to establish a viable knitwear marketing strategy targeting young people by comparing and analyzing preference and buying behavior of customers in their twenties. A survey was conducted in 2009 and 2013 on people in their 20's male and female living in Busan. The total of 362 people participated in the survey and the results are as follows: Firstly, the seeking factors for knitwear were utilization factor, functionality factor, care for clothing factor, economics factor and vogue factor. Secondly, a differentiated marketing strategy targeting 20-something customers needs to be established as there was a steep rise in the number of customers purchasing clothes on online shopping malls using smart phone devices according to the survey.'Low-price, broad-line strategy'is also required as those surveyed preferred stores offering a wide choice of designs with reasonable price. Considering the survey results that a growing number of people tended to buy a variety of knitwear items regardless of the seasons, knitwear production needs to be diversified in terms of designs and materials. Thirdly, the survey revealed that pastel-colored knitwear was preferred for spring/summer season whereas knitwear with achromatic colors was voted the most-preferred one during the autumn and winter season. In terms of knitwear shapes, the gap between genders continues to narrow and tendency sensitive to fashion trend became more apparent reflecting the change of the times.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.15-34
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• 2006

Knit wear was industrialized, diversified, specialized and was made into high-class and it is including knitted cloth and small product for fashion as well as cardigan, sweater, and jacket etc. unlike past recognition only with underwear and inner wear. To consider elasticity to be the best strength of knit wear, middle-aged women that form change is serious are wearing knit wear as clothes for going out, and this may be regarded as clothes action to be conscious of form than vogue. Thus, in this study, this researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women. This researcher tried to develop the design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women, after examining the theoretical background of knit wear, the bodily and mental feature of middle-aged women. Internal and external knit wear brand that middle-aged women prefer as the scheme for solving the problematic form of middle-aged women with knit wear. As the result first, to see the present situation of inland production enterprise of knit wear, almost all the brand companies are concentrating energies on widening age class. Second, middle-aged women become far off from the form which is regarded ideal form in modern society. Third, result that this researcher examined the brand of knit wear of middle-aged women is as follows : MORADO, Cartknit, Escalier. And, in foreign knit wear brand, ST John, Missoni, ESCADA. Fourth, as the result that this researcher did work manufacture for the supplement of form defect of middle-aged women, it has practical and active side, and off-time has high-class and elegant refined beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.235-249
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• 2001

This study the changing aspects in accessories, skin care and hair style in 「Maeil Shinmun」 from Jan. 1, 1946 to Dec. 31, 2000, and the results are as follows. In the period of 1946 to 1959, articles were about how to select accessories and the role of skin-protection cosmetics for skin care, and the cases of people wearing color makeup in pursuit of beauty increased. The hairstyle trend began to gradually shift from long hair toward short. During the time of 1960 to 1969, how to select accessories an also how to match them with clothes were dealt with in articles, and how to massage face or use pack for healthy skin was introduce. From 1970 to 1979, as the number of working women increased, proper use of accessories according to each occasion was introduced, and, for hairstyle, the way to keep their hair healthy and shine, rather than a fashion of its style itself, was emphasized. In 1980∼1989, as casual wear became so popular worldwide and a variety of way to use shoes, mufflers, scarfs, shawls, and hats to go with it were highlighted, practical fashion got in vogue and use of accessories with which individuality can be expressed in a simple way prevailed. During the time of1990 to 2000, the trend changed to the pursuit of chic using accessories that reveal wearers'individuality, and especially came the boom of charming schools and makeup lesson for skin care. The prominent trend was that men and women of the new generation expressed their individuality by having their hair partly dyed or fully dyed in various colors and tried to resemble famous entertainers. In particular, as people get more and more interested in body shape, various ways to take care of body were introduced, such as body care products and aroma treatments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2073-2084
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• 2010

This study provides references that can be applied to future suit design by analyzing the formative characteristics of modern men's and women's suits. Research on related literature and case studies were carried out simultaneously. A criterion for analyzing formative characteristics of suits was drawn up through an examination of past research. A total of 1,410 suit photographs that appeared in the U.S. edition of Vogue Magazine from 1985 to 2008 were analyzed in order to observe the formative characteristics of men's and women's suits. Research results showed that in the 1980s suits pursued a more comfortable and natural fit based on the original properties of simplicity, modernity, and practicality; in addition, women's suits had a tendency to use excessive shoulder pads due to the power-look influence. In the early 1990s exaggerated shoulders and boxy straight silhouettes were in fashion but towards the later years suit designs gradually started to fit the body and established a skinny versus slouch conflict. Women's suits gradually began to show more curvy body lines, and men's suits became more feminine on the surface in terms of color and material. In the 2000s suits have become more feminine and sensual than the 1990s, design focuses of both men's and women's suits moved to the waistline. Skinny and long styles became the ideal silhouette and differences between formative characteristics of the two genders decreased. Fashion elements of men's and women's suits are seen to have changed with a mutual intimate connection under the influence of a similar societal environment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.119-132
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were 1) to classify female consumers on VALS, 2) to identify the differences of psychological characteristics and demographics among the classified groups, and 3) to investigate the apparel benefits, buying behavior, shopping practices and psychological characteristics of each groups. For the study, a sample of 340 female consumers participated in this survey research. The data was analyzed utilizing descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, $\chi^2$-test, one-way ANOVA and Duncan test. Seven dimensions of values were identified by factor analysis: Consumption-oriented, Achievement-oriented , Diligence/sincerity-oriented, Pessimistic value tendencious, conservative/conventional value oriented, Dignity-oriented and Socialite-oriented. Based on these dimensions female consumers classified into three clusters: inner values-directed group, passive/inactive group, and achievement-oriented group. Achievement-oriented group showed the highest scores in optimum stimulation level and materialism, and tended to be younger and be employed than the other two groups. Both inner values-directed group and achievement-oriented group showed higher scores in self-expression/individuality and quality out of five apparel benefit than passive/inactive group. Innovative communicators, fashion innovators and fashion opinion leaders were mostly in the achievement-oriented group, while fashion followers and fashion indifferents were mostly in the passive/inactive group. It was revealed that achievement-oriented group had a larger number of fashionable clothing items and experienced more activities in vogue. Also, there were significant group differences in shopping practice, such as average monthly allowance, number of annual purchase clothing items.

• Advances in environmental research
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.71-84
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• 2019

Effective waterproofing of structures was a compulsory constraint to avoid leaks and dampness or humidity in walls, ceilings, roofs underground tank and underground room. Traditionally used methods of roof waterproofing were bitumen with tinny seared clay tiles are very troublesome, overwhelming time and involving high labor cost. These waterproofing methods are not allocation the purpose due to their intrinsic disadvantages. Prepackaged polymer modified slurries (PPPMS) are now attainment the vogue and easy to use, easily available in the market, cheaper in cost and more workable than the traditional methods of waterproofing. An experimental study has shown that prepackaged polymer modified slurries (PPPMS) are superior in cost and performance to as a roof water proof coatings. Bituminous coatings were mixed with water and different combination of prepackaged polymer modified slurries and primer respectively, to find optimum coverage underneath worst atmospheric conditions. Every specimen of different proportioned was applied on plane roofs and through the passage of time, their performance was checked, assessed and associated with each other. The roof of approximately 40000 ft² area of prepackaged polymer modified slurries was used will give us hundred percent result (no water seepage or no water absorption) therefore no complaints as compare to roofs area of approximately 24000 ft² bituminous coating was used for waterproofing they have shown the result of 30 to 40 percent water seepage. This result shows that prepackaged polymer modified slurries were two times cheaper than bituminous coating. Comparing an equal number of surfaces coated with a polymer modified prepackaged mortar and bitumen the prepackaged polymer modified slurries (PPPMS) showed excellent performance, ease of application and low bitumen coating cost.