• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.526-539
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• 2005

Recently in the apparel industry, early adolescent girls are emerging as a new consumer group. In response to this, companies are developing clothes, cosmetics, underwear, etc. This study proposed a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls and presented reference measurements for body parts necessary in designing clothes. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, frequency analysis. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 7 sizes (140A-67, 145A-65, 145A-69, 150A-69, 150A-73, 155A-73, 155A-76): for Type X - 7 sizes (150x-72, 155x-72, 155x-77, 160x-77, 160x-80, 165x-77, 165x-80); and for Type H - 8 sizes (145H-74, 145H-82, 150H-78, 150H-82, 155H-82, 155H-86, 160H-86, 160H-88). Reference measurements suggested for upper garments were 9 items. The outcome of this study may be used as a basic material for adolescent apparel manufacturers to set their apparel sizing system and to supply their consumers, namely, adolescent girls with products fitting their somatotype.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.939-946
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• 2009

This study is to classify the shape of the body by means of the drop value of the middle-age women. Drop value is based on the circumstances of the body deciding the dimentions of the clothes. Therefore, the study based on the drop value seems to decided the measurement of the clothes in making mass production of ready made clothes. In order to put measure items on this study of the value on 'The fifth survey of body measure of Korean', select 785 people in middle-aged women aged from 40 to 59. And considering the characteristic of upper-drop and lower-drop, and swelling belly by accumulated fat, selected five items(Bust Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Bust Circumstance, Waist Circumstance(Omphalion) - Waist Circumstance, Hip Circumstance - Waist Circumstance(Omphalion)). The result of the study is summarized as follows. Type 1, M type of the body showed the distribution of 32.5% and belonged to low body development style. The line of human body is the nearest of the four bodies in middle-age woman out of whole shapes of 4 types and the line of human body is close to middle-age woman. Type 2, X type of the body showed the distribution of 40.8% and the line of human body remarkably showed. Type 3, H type of the body showed the distribution of 12.4% and the line of human body appears least. This group was larger than any other group in having more fat in the belly above the circumstance of the hip than other groups. Type 4, Y type of the body showed the distribution of 14.4%. This type was upper half of body development style, waist was slender, and there was seldom the bend around the circumstance of belly and hip.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.176-190
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• 2011

Today's young generation in digital era has a rich education environment and convenient life, on the other hand, there was negative impact on growth as normal body type because of adverse impact on an excessive study and insufficient exercise, etc. Also, for these people in IT culture generation, using small mobile including computer for long time is becoming main issue as changing factor in posture and body type in terms of spine like their neck disc. This body-typed characteristic reaches to normal adult body type in the process of physical development of adult woman and has least modification in body type. Therefore, despite of early young generation, body suitability of upper body clothes might caused imbalance. So, for intended to early 20s women, to design clothes with consideration on imbalance of body type by bended and curved spine, body type studies about size of upper body and forms are needed. As this researcher measured the body type of early 20s college women in metropolitan area, changes in body type of young generation with use of digital equipment recently were recognized since straight body type was decreased unequally and had characteristic in terms of changes to be bended body type. The changes of these body type should be considered to make clothes. Also, since there are some restrictions on this research objects in terms of local and numbers of measured objects, a broad interpretation of result on this research should be really careful.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.840-857
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• 2017

In 1995, the costumes were restored in an unknown woman's tomb at the Jeonju Lee's family cemetery in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-Do, and there are currently nine items remaining. In this study, we first introduced these 9 relics to academia and analyzed the morphological characteristics of the costumes. We also estimated the time and person of burial compared with costumes unearthed from other burials. Jeogories (short jacket) are all four items. One of these items was unusual in shape, and the upper part of the seop (gusset) was wrinkled and shaped. This type of Jeogori appears only till the 1520s in other tombs. There are also two skirts, one of which is characterized by a superimposed pattern. The top and bottom / middle part of the skirt were rolled up, and the skirt, which was double-rolled up in this way, was first discovered. An analysis of the shape of Jeogori and skirt indicated that the person buried in the Jeonju Lee's family tomb was believed to have survived until the early 16th century. Based on these estimated periods, as a result of looking at the genealogy of Jeonju Lee's family, it was concluded that the tomb was probably a woman named Lee Geum Myeong (李金命) born in the mid-15C and died between the late 15C and the early 16C.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the general status of wearing clothes and clothing purchase of middle-aged women in the 40's to 50's, the patterns and colors of clothes they prefer, clothing preference related with fitting or such, and also complaints. And this paper also divides the middle-aged women into those in the 40's and 50's to analyze how they differ in terms of the apparel brands and fitting they prefer and also the status of wearing clothes. For the research, a survey was performed to 350 women, and the survey data went through x2 and t-test analysis by using SPSS 20.0 to examine significant difference. The results of this study are as follows: the women in the 40's included as the subjects showed a high frequency of clothing purchase from casual brands or SPA brands and regarded design to be important at the clothing purchase. Meanwhile, the women in the 50's indicated a higher frequency of clothing purchase of middle-aged women's apparel brands, outdoor brands, madam clothes, or designer brands and thought activity to be crucial at the clothing purchase. As the women in the 40's and 50's showed difference in the brands they preferred, particularly the fitting indicated difference in terms of dissatisfaction. While those in the 40's preferring and buying young casual showed particularly more fitting problems in the arm-hole girth, upper arm circumference, bust size, and thigh or hip area, those in the 50's indicated fitting problems in the hip circumference or waist measurement. It is expected that this study will be used as foundational data to set up the target age by related apparel companies or develop clothes with great size fitting and design satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.904-915
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop and examine an in-line skating uniform that is also suitable for everyday wear, through research on the dressing needs of skaters. The results of this research are as follows: when asked about the garment, ordinary clothes were more inconvenient than professional uniform. In the case of the upper garment, the skaters who dressed in ordinary clothes felt the most inconvenience in the part of sleeve, back side of bottom and width. The skaters who dressed in professional in-line uniforms felt the most inconvenience in the part of neck girth, of sleeve, back side of bottom. In the case of the lower garment, the skaters who dressed in ordinary clothes felt the most inconvenience in the knee, crotch and hip. The skaters who dressed in professional in-line uniforms felt the most inconvenience in the hip and crotch. Damage due to wear was shown up the hip, knee, side of thigh and shoulder. The answer rate was high that the ordinary clothes usually wore out and the uniform used to tear out in the form of clothes damage. An appropriate sample pattern was made up, based on the problems revealed in the results of the questionnaire analysis. Evaluation of samples was used linear Measurement (5 point preference scale) by organized with 15 male and female's subjects group and 12 observer group.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.79-88
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to propose the design of the patient's clothes for a disabled child between 4 and 6. For this, in this study, I would present the following design plan which includes 3 upper garments, 2 trousers and a one-piece dress. In case of the damage on head and neck, a neck line should be deep and wide thereby providing ease to the clothes. To facilitate injection and dressing/undressing, there should be parting from neck to cuff which can be fixed by snap or button. By rolling up sleeves with strings inside the cuffs and fixating plaster cast with snap button outside the cuffs. In case of body cast with plaster cast around body part, front adjusting part should be wider and the width should be adjusted with strings. In case of hip spica cast which covers waist, I separated front part and rear part, fixated them with snap buttons, gave more width to front adjusting part with strings to adjust width, which constitute one-piece dress. In case of shoulder spica cast, the other shoulder which is not covered with plaster cast should be exposed, and to prevent clothes' coming down, strings with snap button or velcro should be attached over a shoulder so that the length of the strings can be adjusted. In case of applying plaster cast or aid to the whole part of a leg, one part of trousers should be shorter so as to expose the injured part and there should be a parting with strings or velcros on the side for easy dressing/undressing. When plaster cast or splint is short, The strings are meant to adjust length of trousers. The partings are located 2 cm from side lines toward the center.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.108-124
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• 2014

The purpose of the study is to figure out the difference in preference of clothes between Korean and Chinese female college students, who share similar ethnic traits despite having different sociocultural backgrounds and environment, and see the differences in their body image and body satisfaction. The questionnaire-based survey for the study was conducted for about a month and a total of 449 copies of the questionnaire were collected for the final research. For the research method, we examined the differences in clothes preference and fit between Korean and Chinese students, and then the corresponding differences in body image and body satisfaction. The result showed significant differences in the categories of skirt length, pants length, upper garment fit, and lower garment fit. Korean students preferred slim fit clothes, while their counterparts preferred natural fits. A comparison of body image between Korean and Chinese female students showed that the Korean students had lower body satisfaction levels, and viewed themselves as fat even though they were slimmer than their counterparts. The conclusion of the analysis was that compared to Korean students the Chinese students pursued a more comfortable and casual style, preferring unique and diverse designs instead of simply following a fashion trend.