• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.538-553
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• 2021

As interest in the sustainable fashion industry continues to increase along with climate issues, it is necessary to identify research trends in sustainable fashion and seek new development directions. Therefore, this study aims to analyze research trends on sustainable fashion. For this purpose, related papers were collected from the KCI (Korean Citation Index) and Scopus, and 340 articles were used for the study. The collected data went through data transformation, data preprocessing, topic modeling analysis, core topic derivation, and visualization through a Python algorithm. A total of eight topics were obtained from the comprehensive analysis: consumer clothing consumption behavior and environment, upcycle product development, product types by environmental approach, ESG business activities, materials and material development, process-based approach, lifestyle and consumer experience, and brand strategy. Topics were related to consumption, production, and education of sustainable fashion, respectively. KCI analysis results and Scopus analysis results derived eight topics but showed differences from the comprehensive analysis results. This study provides primary data for exploring various themes of sustainable fashion. It is significant in that the data were analyzed based on probability using a research method that excluded the subjective value of the researcher. It is recommended that follow-up studies be conducted to examine social trends.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.13-25
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• 2023

The implementation of ESG practices in the fashion industry has been accelerating, and its significance has been growing across all industries. This paper aims to examine the strategies for ESG implementation in domestic fashion brands and analyze how ESG principles are applied in the context of domestic conscious fashion. To analyze conscious fashion as a means of ESG implementation, the evaluation criteria of ESG from the Textile Fashion Policy Research Institute were utilized as analytical tools. As a result, five categories of domestic conscious fashion emerged: animal-free vegan fashion, eco-friendly plant-based vegan materials, upcycled fashion, regenerated fiber fashion utilizing waste materials, and fair trade fashion. The characteristics of these ESG practices in conscious fashion were identified with four key features. Firstly, the adoption of environmentally friendly materials demonstrates a tendency towards resource conservation, minimizing environmental degradation, and protecting ecosystems. Secondly, technology-driven circular practices are predominant in vegan and upcycled types, evident in the development of fashion materials and secondhand content. Thirdly, design practices based on scarcity incorporate characteristics of upcycling and fair trade. Lastly, the practices of social and ethical values underlie the philosophies of three types of conscious fashion. With the acceleration of ESG practices in the fashion industry and the increasing importance thereof, it is expected that domestic conscious fashion in South Korea will diversify in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.374-387
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop up-cycling fashion design methods centered on discarded denim material for the study of original up-cycling design methods. Up-cycling fashion design work was developed using digital clothing technology. This is a recent hot topic among sustainable fashion design methods. Up-cycling fashion design expression methods (categorized as dismantlement, collages, dépaysement, grafting, weaving, and tearing) were centered on design methods. These methods create various three-dimensional modeling effects in planar forms, whereby five pieces can be applied to the fabric and digitally produced. The results are as follows: First, the use of discarded denim fabric for the development of up-cycling fashion design pieces enabled the recycling of existing resources, provided solutions to environmental pollution problems, and provided expansion opportunities for design processes for sustainable fashion products that expand the design value of denim products and their utility. Second, new eco-friendly fashion designs that attempt to achieve diversity in modern fashion trends could be presented through formative contemporary fashion produced by up-cycling work products. Third, up-cycling fashion design work is expected to provide opportunities for eco-friendly fashion design methods. This will expand the value of sustainable fashion design by recycling simple waste materials through the use of three-dimensional digital clothing technology and further through the presentation of expanded life cycles that extend product planning, production, and life cycles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.1-15
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• 2024

Christopher Nemeth is a designer who combines characteristics of a pioneering upcycle design and deconstructionist design with fabrics, waste clothing, and pieces of fabric recycled in the 1980s. By hommaging his work from the Louis Vuitton 2015 F/W collection, Kim Jones is once again becoming a source of design inspiration in an era where upcycling fashion is attracting attention. Accordingly, an upcycling design approach might appeal to the MZ generation. Christopher Nemes' design presented in this study as a representative fashion designer of dismantling upcycling is basically based on dismantling. It can also be interpreted as dismantling upcycling design because it uses used clothing, waste clothing, and discarded fabrics as materials. This study examined main techniques of upcycling fashion design and derived characteristics of Nemes design as "deconstructive techniques using free lines of construction," "recycling upcycling vintage materials and clothing accessories," and "using handcrafted techniques of artistic sensibility." By applying Nemes' dismantling upcycling technique, four designs were developed for men's top and bottom sets for targets in their 20s and 30s to suggest the commercialization possibility. This study is meaningful in that it proposes a methodical alternative to the new deconstructionist upcycling design that can show Nemes' aesthetic characteristics, creative perspective, and personality by modernly reinterpreting the deconstructionist upcycling technique extracted through analysis of fashion designer Christopher Nemes' design. In particular, by actually producing the work and confirming whether the design technique can be implemented, the value as a fashion product that can be sold is realized.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.173-187
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• 2021

The purpose of this research was to develop instructions for making upcycled clothing accessories related to the 'clothing management and recycling' unit of middle school home economics applying the design thinking technique. Teaching and learning process plans were developed according to the ADDIE model which includes the following process: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. The design thinking process includes understanding the related knowledge, sympathizing, problem identification(sharing perspectives) and idea development, making prototypes, testing, and making the actual product. Thirteen home economics teachers served as critics. Student feedbacks were collected to evaluate whether the course objectives were attained after the implementation. As a result, teaching and learning process plans, course materials, and evaluation rubrics for ten class sessions were developed. Student feedbacks confirmed the attainment of following five course objectives: improvement of ethical responsibilities through the exploration of various clothing recycling techniques, practice of creative and eco-friendly clothing culture, acquisition of the skills to use sewing tools safely, improvement of abilities to think, sympathize, and communicate, and exploration of aesthetic activities and fashion careers.