• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.119-131
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• 2001

Exposure of the human skin to UV-light can cause sun-tanning, photoaging and even photo-carcinogenesis. Melanin is important in protecting the skin against UV damage, but excessive or uneven melanin production can lead to the formation of freckles and aged spot. Control of hyperpigmentation is becoming even more important as aged population continues to grow. These needs led us to develop effective and safe depigmenting-agent, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate (kojyl-APPA), called Whitegen. The development of whitegen was based on the fact that phosphate group of 3-aminopropyl phosphate can make kojic acid more compatible to the skin membrane and more stable. Instability of kojic acid has been a problem in cosmetic use. The insertion of phosphoester group has been recognized as a powerful tool to improve such physical properties as solubility and stability, because the phosphodiester residue is well characterized as a non-toxic moiety, having a high affinity for cell membranes. Kojyl-APPA showed no tyrosinase inhibition effect compared to kojic acid in vitro, but showed tyrosinase inhibition effect in situ. It means that kojyl-APPA is converted to kojic acid enzymatically in cells. Kojyl-APPA showed the inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis in mouse melanoma and normal humal melnaocytes and also showed long-lasting stability in comparison with its original form (kojic acid). Kojyl-APPA showed depigmenting effects when applied to UVB-induced hyperpigmentated region of guinea pig skin. Based on these results, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate can be used as a safe and effective ingredient for the brightness and cleanness of skin.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.470-475
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• 2013

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major environmental factor that leads to acute and chronic reactions in the human skin. UV exposure induces wrinkle formation, DNA damage, and generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Most mechanistic studies of skin physiology and pharmacology related with UV-irradiated skin have focused on proteins and their related gene expression or single-targeted small molecules. The present study identified and analyzed the alteration of skin metabolites following UVB irradiation and topical retinyl palmitate (RP, 5%) treatment in hairless mice using direct analysis in real time (DART) time-of-flight mass spectrometry (TOF-MS) with multivariate analysis. Under the negative ion mode, the DART ion source successfully ionized various fatty acids including palmitoleic and linolenic acid. From DART-TOF-MS fingerprints measured in positive mode, the prominent dehydrated ion peak (m/z: 369, M+H-$H_2O$) of cholesterol was characterized in all three groups. In positive mode, the discrimination among three groups was much clearer than that in negative mode by using multivariate analysis of orthogonal partial-least squares-discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA). DART-TOF-MS can ionize various small organic molecules in living tissues and is an efficient alternative analytical tool for acquiring full chemical fingerprints from living tissues without requiring sample preparation. DART-MS measurement of skin tissue with multivariate analysis proved to be a powerful method to discriminate between experimental groups and to find biomarkers for various experiment models in skin dermatological research.

• Food Science of Animal Resources
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.58-70
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• 2015

This study was conducted to examine the effect of egg shell membrane hydrolysates (ESMH) on wrinkle, UV, and moisture protection for cosmetic use. ESMH were fragmented as whole ESMH (before fractioning), Fraction I (> 10 kDa), Fraction II (3-10 kDa), and Fraction III (< 3 kDa). In order to test whether fractionated ESMH can be used for functional cosmetic materials, we examined not only the level of hyaluronic acid and collagen production, but also the MMP-1 activity using a HaCaT and CCD-986Sk cell line. Our study treated each sample of fractionated ESMH with different concentrations (0.01, 0.1, 1 mg/mL). In our in vivo research, we used hairless mice that had been exposed to UV-B to induce wrinkles for 7 wk, then applied Fraction I to the treatment group for 5 wk and then tested skin thickness, minimum erythema dose and moisture content. In addition, Fraction I was high in collagen and HA biosynthesis and it was better than TGF-${\beta}$ in improving of the skin. When TNF-${\alpha}$ caused MMP-1 activity in the CCD-986Sk cells, the whole ESMH and Fraction I proved to be effective in hindering the induction of collagenase depending on the concentration, and also showed outstanding effects in the suppression of skin aging. We found that the treatment group mice's UV-B radiation-induced skin damage was largely mitigated compared to that of the non-treatment group mice. Thus, we have concluded that EMSH helps to mitigate UV-B radiation-induced wrinkles, collagen, HA, MMP-1 activity and can be used for functional cosmetic materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.195-201
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• 2016

Hyssopus officinalis is a herbaceous plant of the genus Hyssopus. Due to its properties as an antiseptic, cough reliever and expectorant, it is commonly used as an aromatic herb and medicinal plant. This study was performed to investigate the anti-oxidative and anti-melanogenic properties of Hyssopus officinalis extracts (HE) using in vitro assays and cell culture systems. As a result, HE showed higher DPPH and ABTS radicals scavenging activity in a dose-dependent manner. Also, HE inhibited the prodution of intracellular ROS and melanin contents in B16F10 melanoma cell as well as tyrosinase activity. We also found that HE inhibit mRNA expression of MITF, tyrosinase and TRP-2 gene. These findings suggest that HE may be beneficial for preventing oxidative damage and melanogenesis of skin.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.990-998
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• 2021

Melanin is a natural skin pigment produced by specialized cells called melanocytes via a multistage biochemical pathway known as melanogenesis, involving the oxidation and polymerization of tyrosine. Melanogenesis is initiated upon exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, causing the skin to darken, which protects skin cells from UVB radiation damage. However, the abnormal accumulation of melanin may lead to the development of certain skin diseases, including skin cancer. In this study, the antioxidant and antimelanogenic activities of the cell-free supernatant (CFS) of twenty strains were evaluated. Based on the results of 60% 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl scavenging activity, 21% 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) scavenging capacity, and a 50% ascorbic acid equivalent ferric reducing antioxidant power value, Limosilactobacillus fermentum JNU532 was selected as the strain with the highest antioxidant potential. No cytotoxicity was observed in cells treated with the CFS of L. fermentum JNU532. Tyrosinase activity was reduced by 16.7% in CFS-treated B16F10 cells (but not in the cell-free system), with >23.2% reduction in melanin content upon treatment with the L. fermentum JNU532-derived CFS. The inhibitory effect of the L. fermentum JNU532-derived CFS on B16F10 cell melanogenesis pathways was investigated using quantitative reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction and western blotting. The inhibitory effects of the L. fermentum JNU532-derived CFS were mediated by inhibiting the transcription of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF and the protein expression of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF. Therefore, L. fermentum JNU532 may be considered a potentially useful, natural depigmentation agent.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.95-100
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• 2013

Objectives : The purpose of this study was to investigate antiaging and antioxidant effects on cultured human skin fibroblast with supercritical fluid extracts of Dendropanax morbifera, Corni fructus and Lycii Fructus. Methods : Supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) technique was applied to extract from three medicinal plants including stem of Dendropanax morbifera, Corni fructus and Lycii Fructus. Antioxidant activity of extract was evaluated by two different assays as 2,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging and super oxide dismutase (SOD) like activities. These extracts were tested for cell viability on HS68 skin fibroblast by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. We investigated the effects of Ultraviolet-B irradiation on cytotoxicity, type 1 collagen, elastin level and oxidative damage in cultured human skin fibroblast (HS68). Recently, many studies have reported that elastin is also involved in inhibiting or repairing wrinkle formation, although collagen is a major factor in the skin wrinkle formation. Results : The extracts obtained dose-dependently increased the scavenging activity on DPPH radical scavenging activity and SOD like activity. The supercritical fluid extracts of complex herbal medicine showed low cytotoxicity as more than 100% cell viability in 100ppm/ml concentration. HS68 fibroblasts were survived 70% at $120mJ/cm^2$ UVB irradiation and treated tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-alpha. The levels of aging factors and cytotoxicity were decreased by supercritical fluid extract of complex herbal medicine. Conclusions : These results suggest that supercritical fluid extracts may have value as the potential antioxidant and antiaging medicinal plant.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.18-28
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• 2018

In this study, the antioxidant activities and cytoprotective effects against oxidative stress of Lonicera japonica Thunb. 50% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction were investigated. Using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay, the free radical scavenging activity (FSC50) of L. japonica Thunb. 50% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction was determined as 152.00 and $77.25{\mu}g/ml$, respectively. To measure the reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity, the total antioxidant capacity (OSC50) was determined by using a luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The antioxidant activity of the ethyl acetate fraction ($0.33{\mu}g/ml$) was approximately four times stronger than that of the 50% ethanol extract ($1.12{\mu}g/ml$). The protective effect against $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes (${\tau}_{50}$) was 46.0 min at $10{\mu}g/ml$ of the 50% ethanol extract and 52.3 min at $1{\mu}g/ml$ of the ethyl acetate fraction. We also investigated the cytoprotective effects against oxidative stress induced by $H_2O_2$ and the intracellular ROS scavenging activity in response to UVB irradiation and found that the extract and fraction protected human skin cells from damage and reduced ROS. These results confirmed that L. japonica Thunb. was a valuable plant-derived natural antioxidant with potential for development as an antioxidative functional ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.287-292
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• 2009

Human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as smoke, chemicals and ultraviolet (UV). Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental irritants play critical roles in cellular damage. In this study, to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Ophioglossum vulgatum extract, we investigated its effects on intercellular antioxidative activity and UVA-induced MMP expression in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). The dried O. vulgatum was extracted in a mixture of ethanol and water (1 : 1) for 24 h at room temperature. The extract was filtered and concentrated in vacuo and lyophilized. For testing intracellular ROS scavenging activity the cultured HDFs were analyzed by increase in DCF fluorescence upon exposure to UVB $20\;mJ/cm^2$. After treatment of O. vulgatum extracts, intracellular ROS levels were measured by luminescence spectrophotometer. Enzyme linked immuno sorbent assay (ELISA), and RT-PCR techniques were used for evaluating the effects of O. vulgatumon on MMP protein and mRNA expression in UVA irradiated HDFs. O. vulgatum extract was found to have ROS scavenging activity with the $IC_{50}$ values of $18.2\;{\mu}g/mL$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. After treatment of O. vulgatum extracts, the oxidation of CM-DCFDA was inhibited effectively and O. vulgatum extracts showed a potent free radical scavenging activity by 30.4 % at $100\;{\mu}g/mL$ in UVB-irradiated HDFs. UVA induced MMP protein expression was reduced 37.7 % by treatment with O. vulgatum extract, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced in a dose-dependent manner. Taken together, these results suggest that O. vulgatum extract prevents the skin cell damage induced by UV irradiation, and implies that O. vulgatum extract may be useful as a new ingredient for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.217-226
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• 2016

In this study, we investigated the antioxidative and cellular protective effects on HaCaT cells and erythrocytes of Moringa oleifera (M. oleifera) leaves extract and its fractions. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of M. oleifera leaves. The free radical scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of the extract and fractions of M. oleifera leaves were in the following order: 50% ethanol extract ($77.10{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($20.63{\mu}g/mL$) < aglycone fraction ($17.00{\mu}g/mL$) by using the 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl. In $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol, reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (total antioxidant capacity, $OSC_{50}$) of aglycone fraction ($OSC_{50}=0.63{\mu}g/mL$) was the strongest among all extracts, which was much higher than L-ascorbic acid ($1.50{\mu}g/mL$). In the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of erythrocytes, the cellular protective effects of 50% ethanol extract (${\tau}_{50}=46.9min$) and aglycone fraction (${\tau}_{50}=122.1min$) were higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (${\tau}_{50}=37.7min$), known as a lipophilic antioxidant at $10{\mu}g/mL$. After cell damage induced by $400mJ/cm^2$ UVB irradiation, the cellular protective effects of ethyl acetate and aglycone fraction of M. oleifera leaves extract were showed on the concentration from 0.20 to $1.56{\mu}g/mL$. These results suggest that M. oleifera leaves extract and its fractions can function as a natural antioxidant agent in cosmetics on skin exposed to UV radiation by protecting cellular membrane against ROS.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.176-184
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• 2018

In the present study, we investigated the antioxidative properties, cellular protective effects and component analyses of 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction obtained from Lysimachia christinae Hance (L. christinae Hance). In the evaluation of antioxidative properties, the free radical scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 146.8, 22.2 and $27.2{\mu}g/mL$, respectively and total antioxidant capacities ($OSC_{50}$) were 29.3, 2.9 and $4.5{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The ethyl acetate fraction showed the highest free radical scavenging activity and total antioxidant capacity. Also, the cellular protective effects (${\tau}_{50}$) of 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction on $^1O_2$ induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were 26.9, 57.5 and 103.9 min at $5{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. In particular, ${\tau}_{50}$ of the aglycone fraction exhibited a higher cellular protective effect than that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (37.7 min). The cell viability of the ethyl acetate fraction on the UVB-induced cell damage increased up to 90.1%. In addition, the ethyl acetate fraction ($5-25{\mu}g/mL$) showed cellular protective effects on the $H_2O_2-induced$ cell damages in a dose-dependent manner. TLC, HPLC, UV-vis spectroscopy and LC-MS were used to analyse components of the ethyl acetate fraction and the main components were quercetin, kaempferol and their glycosides. In conclusion, L. christinae Hance extract/fraction can function as antioxidants to protect the skin exposed to UV radiation and may also be used as a novel functional cosmetic material, for example, an antioxidant against skin photoaging.