• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.933-938
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• 2017

Clitocybin A, an isoindolinone from Clitocybe aurantiaca, was investigated to assess its anti-wrinkle properties, through reactive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging and elastase inhibitory activities, procollagen synthesis, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression, in human primary dermal fibroblast-neonatal (HDF-N) cells. Clitocybin A exhibited no significant cytotoxicity up to 10 ppm in HDF-N cells, with cell viability and cell proliferation activity greater than 94.6% and 91.9%, respectively. Strong and concentration-dependent ROS radical scavenging activities of clitocybin A were observed following irradiation with UVB at $30mJ/cm^2$. Furthermore, clitocybin A treatment of cells at 0.1, 1, and 10 ppm exhibited decreased elastase activity, in a concentration-dependent manner, by 1.97%, 6.6%, and 8.31%, respectively, versus the control group. The effects of clitocybin A on procollagen synthesis and MMP-1 expression were investigated. Clitocybin A treatment of cells at 1, 5, and 10 ppm increased procollagen synthesis, by 67.9%, 74.4%, and 112.9%, respectively, versus the control group. At these concentrations, MMP-1 expression decreased significantly following UV irradiation. Together, these findings suggest that clitocybin A may be an effective ingredient for use in anti-wrinkle cosmetic products.

• Environmental Analysis Health and Toxicology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.169-178
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• 2009

To investigate the inhibitory effects of Peonia japonica water extract(PJWE) on skin wrinkle formation, skin wrinkles were induced by both the irradiation of UVB and the application of squalene monohydroperoxide to the backs of hairless mice for 4 weeks. And at the same time experimental materials were applied topically. Wrinkles for the control (C) group were formed as a pattern of deep furrows and thick crests. Whereas wrinkles for the positive control (PC, 0.01% retinoic acid) and experimental(E, PJWE) groups were formed as a pattern of shallow furrows and thin crests, which were similar to that of the normal(N) group. Collagen and elastic fibers in dermis of the PC and E groups were almost intact with a regular arrangement, which were similar to those of the N group. The activity of xanthine oxidase, the free radical generating enzyme, was significantly lower in the E group than the C and PC groups. The activities of superoxide dismutase and catalase, the free radical scavenging enzymes, were much higher in the E group than the C and PC groups and similar to the N group. As for the amount of matrix metalloproteinase-3(MMP-3) expression, PC and E groups were significantly lower than the C group. Therefore, PJWE could be very effective natural herbal material for the inhibition or improvement of wrinkle formation in hairless mice skin.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.645-658
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• 2003

We evaluated activities of various plant leaf extracts and found the availability against skin aging in the leaf extract of star fruit (Averrhoa carambola L), and developed Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 as an ingredient of cosmetics. Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 was found to show scavenging activities of reactive oxygen species and an inhibitory effect on the activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1. It showed increasing activity of type I collagen and recovery effect from damage of UV-B irradiation in human fibroblast. We performed the separation of the active principal from Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 to give isofurcatin 2"-Ο-$\alpha$-L-rhamnopyranoside, which showed increasing activity of type I collagen. To examine the anti-wrinkle effect of Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30, seven volunteers applied a Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 1 ％ cream in double blind manner to one-side of the corner of their eye and the placebo cream to the opposite side. Clinical evaluation of wrinkling was performed every week for 5 weeks using a silicone rubber replica. A statistically significant improvement of Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30-treated site was seen in decreased wrinkles. Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 results in clinically visible improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 5 weeks.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.189-195
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• 2012

Slim813 is a 2-cyclopentene-1-one oxime derivative with potent anti-inflammatory and anti-photoaging effects. Slim813 inhibited LPS-induced TNF-${\alpha}$ production and attenuated UVB-induced MMP1 expression. Here in an attempt to find an unrevealed efficacy of Slim813, we found that Slim813 stimulates lipolysis in a dose-dependent manner by increasing intracellular cAMP level through the elevation of HSL activity in fully differentiated adipocytes. Moreover, topical application of Slim813 for two weeks in human reduced the thickness of subcutaneous fat in arm and thigh regions, implying it could be effectively used in the reduction of unwanted local fat accumulation.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.282-289
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• 2018

Melanin is a pigment produced from tyrosine in melanocytes. Although melanin has a protective role against UVB radiation-induced damage, it is also associated with the development of melanoma and darker skin tone. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, which regulates the rate-limiting step during conversion of tyrosine into DOPA and dopaquinone. To develop effective RNA interference therapeutics, we designed a melanin siRNA pool by applying multiple prediction programs to reduce human tyrosinase levels. First, 272 siRNAs passed the target accessibility evaluation using the RNAxs program. Then we selected 34 siRNA sequences with ${\Delta}G{\geq}-34.6kcal/mol$, i-Score value ${\geq}65$, and siRNA scales score ${\leq}30$. siRNAs were designed as 19-bp RNA duplexes with an asymmetric 3' overhang at the 3' end of the antisense strand. We tested if these siRNAs effectively reduced tyrosinase gene expression using qRT-PCR and found that 17 siRNA sequences were more effective than commercially available siRNA. Three siRNAs further tested showed an effective visual color change in MNT-1 human cells without cytotoxic effects, indicating these sequences are anti-melanogenic. Our study revealed that human tyrosinase siRNAs could be efficiently designed using multiple prediction algorithms.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.119-131
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• 2001

Exposure of the human skin to UV-light can cause sun-tanning, photoaging and even photo-carcinogenesis. Melanin is important in protecting the skin against UV damage, but excessive or uneven melanin production can lead to the formation of freckles and aged spot. Control of hyperpigmentation is becoming even more important as aged population continues to grow. These needs led us to develop effective and safe depigmenting-agent, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate (kojyl-APPA), called Whitegen. The development of whitegen was based on the fact that phosphate group of 3-aminopropyl phosphate can make kojic acid more compatible to the skin membrane and more stable. Instability of kojic acid has been a problem in cosmetic use. The insertion of phosphoester group has been recognized as a powerful tool to improve such physical properties as solubility and stability, because the phosphodiester residue is well characterized as a non-toxic moiety, having a high affinity for cell membranes. Kojyl-APPA showed no tyrosinase inhibition effect compared to kojic acid in vitro, but showed tyrosinase inhibition effect in situ. It means that kojyl-APPA is converted to kojic acid enzymatically in cells. Kojyl-APPA showed the inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis in mouse melanoma and normal humal melnaocytes and also showed long-lasting stability in comparison with its original form (kojic acid). Kojyl-APPA showed depigmenting effects when applied to UVB-induced hyperpigmentated region of guinea pig skin. Based on these results, kojyl 3-aminopropyl phosphate can be used as a safe and effective ingredient for the brightness and cleanness of skin.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 2015

Objective : The goal of this study is to identify the effects of extract ofGentianae sino-ornata(GSO) on the anti-oxidative activity of skin.For this purpose, several functions of GSO were analyzed in terms of skin-lightening activity and wrinkle improvement. Methods : Cell viability was measured by neutral red (NR) assay, and GSO showed highly efficacy in DPPH radical scavenging activity. The level of tyrosinase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in media was analyzed by ELISA kit, and the expressions of p-JNK and p-ERK was measured by Western blot. To elucidate inhibitory effects of GSO on melanin synthesis, I determined the tyrosinase activity and melanin production in B16F10 cells. Results : MMP-1 production in UVB-stimulated HDF cells was inhibited by GSO treatments, and also GSO inhibited protein expression levels of p-JNK and p-ERK. GSO significantly reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells. Conclusions : From these results, GSO appears to be effective on skin elasticity increase, wrinkle improvement, whitening as anti-aging activity.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.470-475
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• 2013

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major environmental factor that leads to acute and chronic reactions in the human skin. UV exposure induces wrinkle formation, DNA damage, and generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Most mechanistic studies of skin physiology and pharmacology related with UV-irradiated skin have focused on proteins and their related gene expression or single-targeted small molecules. The present study identified and analyzed the alteration of skin metabolites following UVB irradiation and topical retinyl palmitate (RP, 5%) treatment in hairless mice using direct analysis in real time (DART) time-of-flight mass spectrometry (TOF-MS) with multivariate analysis. Under the negative ion mode, the DART ion source successfully ionized various fatty acids including palmitoleic and linolenic acid. From DART-TOF-MS fingerprints measured in positive mode, the prominent dehydrated ion peak (m/z: 369, M+H-$H_2O$) of cholesterol was characterized in all three groups. In positive mode, the discrimination among three groups was much clearer than that in negative mode by using multivariate analysis of orthogonal partial-least squares-discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA). DART-TOF-MS can ionize various small organic molecules in living tissues and is an efficient alternative analytical tool for acquiring full chemical fingerprints from living tissues without requiring sample preparation. DART-MS measurement of skin tissue with multivariate analysis proved to be a powerful method to discriminate between experimental groups and to find biomarkers for various experiment models in skin dermatological research.

• Food Science of Animal Resources
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.58-70
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• 2015

This study was conducted to examine the effect of egg shell membrane hydrolysates (ESMH) on wrinkle, UV, and moisture protection for cosmetic use. ESMH were fragmented as whole ESMH (before fractioning), Fraction I (> 10 kDa), Fraction II (3-10 kDa), and Fraction III (< 3 kDa). In order to test whether fractionated ESMH can be used for functional cosmetic materials, we examined not only the level of hyaluronic acid and collagen production, but also the MMP-1 activity using a HaCaT and CCD-986Sk cell line. Our study treated each sample of fractionated ESMH with different concentrations (0.01, 0.1, 1 mg/mL). In our in vivo research, we used hairless mice that had been exposed to UV-B to induce wrinkles for 7 wk, then applied Fraction I to the treatment group for 5 wk and then tested skin thickness, minimum erythema dose and moisture content. In addition, Fraction I was high in collagen and HA biosynthesis and it was better than TGF-${\beta}$ in improving of the skin. When TNF-${\alpha}$ caused MMP-1 activity in the CCD-986Sk cells, the whole ESMH and Fraction I proved to be effective in hindering the induction of collagenase depending on the concentration, and also showed outstanding effects in the suppression of skin aging. We found that the treatment group mice's UV-B radiation-induced skin damage was largely mitigated compared to that of the non-treatment group mice. Thus, we have concluded that EMSH helps to mitigate UV-B radiation-induced wrinkles, collagen, HA, MMP-1 activity and can be used for functional cosmetic materials.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.97-104
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• 2015

The skin exposure to solar irradiation and photoreactive xenobiotics may produce abnormal skin reaction, phototoxicity. Phototoxicity is an acute light-induced response, which occurs when photoreacive chemicals are activated by solar lights and transformed into products cytotoxic against the skin cells. Multifarious symptoms of phototoxicity are identified, skin irritation, erythema, pruritis, and edema that are similar to those of the exaggerated sunburn. Diverse organic chemicals, especially drugs, are known to induce phototoxicity, which is probably from the common possession of UV-absorbing benzene or heterocyclic rings in their molecular structures. Both UVB (290~320 nm) and UVA (320~400 nm) are responsible for the manifestation of phototoxicity. Absorption of photons and absorbed energy (hv) by photoactive chemicals results in molecular changes or generates reactive oxygen species and depending on the way how endogenous molecules are affected by phototoxicants, mechanisms of phototoxcity is categorized into two modes of action: Direct when unstable species from excited state directly react with the endogenous molecules, and indirect when endogeneous molecules react with secondary photoproducts. In order to identify phototoxic potential of a chemical, various test methods have been introduced. Focus is given to animal alternative test methods, i.e., in vitro, and in chemico assays as well as in vivo. 3T3 neutral red uptake assay, erythrocyte photohemolysis test, and phototoxicity test using human 3-dimensional (3D) epidermis model are examples of in vitro assays. In chemico methods evaluate the generation of reactive oxygen species or DNA strand break activity employing plasmid for chemicals, or drugs with phototoxic potential.