• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.55-67
• /
• 1990

This is a review on the longitudinal transformation of the Japanese trousers, which is prepared as a pre-study for the comparative analysis of the forms of Korean and Japanese folk trousers. The special traits of the Japanese trousers are found to be as follows: 1) The Japanese trousers seem to have their root in the Northern-Asian or Schithian culture. 2) While the ancient forms of Japanese trousers, esp., those of the 8C before include the same types as Korean folk trousers, the Medieval and Recent era trousers quite differ and transform themselves into the unique Japanese type. 3) All Japanese trousers can largely be classified into formal and functional trousers. Formal trousers play important role as one of the ceremonial wardrobe and are treated rather as an outermost-wear than as an inner-wear. 4) The formal trousers have skirt-like features with much fullness as are presented in many deep pleats, long crotch lines and long sashes connected to the belt; the femine trousers even omit crotch line. 5) The principal forms of Japanese trousers consist of I, $\wedge,\;\wedge$; the $\lambda$ form of Korean and Chinese type had never existed. 6) Varieties of the composite type of Japanese-Western style appear among the trousers of recent time.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권9호
• /
• pp.97-113
• /
• 2011

To develop the work clothes for the employees in the mechatronics industry in South Korea, a questionnaire survey on many aspects of the work clothes such as type, color, detailed design and function preference of the subject employees has been carried out in the study. The results throughout the survey highlighted certain functions such as extensibility, thermal and air permeability of importance for the work clothing performance. To improve the discomfort caused by some work motions (i.e. squatting down, ascending/descending the stairs, raising arms), more allowances were given to the measurements (i.e. body rise + 2cm and crotch depth + 1cm for squatting down pose; thigh circumference + 1cm and knee circumference + 1cm for ascending/ descending the stairs pose; chest circumference + 5~6cm and jumper length to the level of hip circumference line for raising arms pose) for work clothes patternmaking. The evaluation of the two types of spring/summer and winter work clothes' clothing comfort and wearer mobility suggested certain points to improve the clothing performance (e.g. ventilation slits on the back pleats, arm pits and collar band of the spring/summer suit using net material and lining for the winter suit using quilted thermal materials) and wearer mobility (e.g. pants hem buckles for the easy work motion), which also enabled to fulfill the workers' work clothes design preference.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제43권5호
• /
• pp.249-265
• /
• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• 복식
• /
• 제63권2호
• /
• pp.29-44
• /
• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권2호
• /
• pp.306-315
• /
• 2006

Today, the uniform is perceived being important, because it transmits the unique company image through visualization of images, improves efficiency of work, and increases the feeling of belonging. Therefore, the purpose of this project was to make the winter uniform for the personnel in the manufacturing and the business departments of Korea Tobacco and Ginseng Corporation. The functional, aesthetic, and symbolic aspects were fully considered throughout the design process for the new uniform. To reflect the worker's opinions, the questionnaire method was used. The questionnaire was made up of the questions about the evaluation criteria and design preference for uniform. The result of the survey was reflected on the uniform design. The uniform consists of a jumper and a pair of pants. The jumper for manufacturing workers has two patched pockets with gussets. It has a convertible collar and a horizontal tuck on front panel. It has an open fastener on the front and a flap to cover the fastener. It has two types of pockets inside for functional reason. The welt one is for a wallet and the small one is for a pen. For the material, melanges with two tones of gray color was used, so it gave the sophisticated look on the uniform. The jumper for business workers also has a convertible collar and inside pockets. It has two slant slash pockets with welt. In addition, it has an attachable fur collar which gives thermal protection and aesthetic effect. The fabric has small check pattern and was made of wool. The pants are a basic trouser style with two pleats on the front.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권8호
• /
• pp.933-945
• /
• 2011

This research proposes a pattern design method for 24 pleated skirts in order to develop an automatic draft program for pleated skirts that will enhance fit and enable mass production. The research method and results are outlined as follow. 1. Three-dimensional body measurements were conducted on 30 randomly selected women in their 20s. By using 34 body measurement items and 6 types of calculations among the items, the items required in the designing of an original pleated skirt were extracted. They were then interpreted through correlation analysis, variance analysis, a t-test, linear regression analysis and multiple regression analysis. 2. An extra amount was added to the waist measurement and external capsule measurement according to the number of times the pleats coincided and the thickness of the fabric by the degree of polymerization of the horizontal cross section (the test of this research: 0.518mm). The extra amount of waist measurement was 3.6cm while the hip measurement was 4.3cm larger than the hip measurement combined with the external capsule measurement and the extra amount. 3. Based on the ${\pm}$standard deviation/2 as the average of the difference between the external capsule measurement and waist measurement, the subjects were classified into 3 somatotypes. Somatotype 1 presented an average total length of waist darts of 23.6cm while that of somatotype 2 was 26.2cm and that of somatotype 3 was 30.2cm. It has been confirmed that there is a significant difference among somatotypes in the total length of waist darts from the front center to the front side and the total length of waist darts from the side to the back center in terms of the average amount of waist darts for every 12 parts on the WL.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권8호
• /
• pp.49-65
• /
• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제8권1호
• /
• pp.80-88
• /
• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.46-62
• /
• 2013

This thesis aims to provide basic resources for the development of various uniform designs of cheerleaders by investigating the currently favoured uniform designs. The 13 professional cheerleader teams were existed among the 25 professional sports teams-9 baseball, 10 basketball and 6 volleyball teams. In each sports teams, four cheerleader's uniform were chosen and evaluated in terms of the cheerleader uniform design by analyzing the forms, colors, decorations and accessories. The result shows that the common kinds of design representing the symbolic color and the emblem were generally prevalent, instead of particular types of uniform design and subject in accordance with different kinds of the professional baseball, basketball and volleyball respectively. Throughout all the kinds of the sports, the combination of the sleeveless top and hot-pants were most frequently observed. In case of the skirts, the mini flare, wrap, and pleats skirts were the most prevalent, because it gave free to motion for cheerleading. The one-piece style were rather infrequent, comparing with the two-pieces, with the hourglass and fitted silhouette the most frequent type, and all those were mini in length. The sleeve in top were generally absent or short, however the bare top style was never found that the top would have a risk of being taken off downwardly during cheerleading. The accessories and the cheering tools were not so much used. The cap and headdresses were not many in kinds. The pompom, megaphone, tube stick, towel, umbrella and musical instruments would not be sufficient to play a role of tools for cheering, which suggests that the rather advanced tools or instruments for cheering in the sports need to be developed, not alone the uniform design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제23권1호
• /
• pp.129-142
• /
• 2021

This study aims to identify the perception of New-Hanbok one-piece dresses that female consumers have purchased and to analyze the design preference based on design types and brands. Analysis was conducted on New-Hanbok brand websites, and additional research was carried out through a survey of 402 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 36 questions, which were divided into categories including pattern, color, material, and recognition of the one-piece dress. The research results are as follows. First, the preferred design form of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress was long length, medium fit, princess line, round git, rectangular git, regular width git, V neckline, regular width dongjeong, front closing with a wide overlap of the chest are a, narrow goreum, a skirt part with moderate crease spacing and number of pleats, A-line skirt silhouette, long and narrow sleeves, diagonal shoulder line, and a cuff at the end of each sleeve. Second, the preferred colors of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress were bright, neutral, or light and were predominately monochromatic Third, the preferred fabric conveyed a contemporary atmosphere through its print pattern. The most favored fabric material was cotton. Through this study, more systematic design development research should be carried out focusing on the current situation and identifying problems, thereby improving traditional culture.