• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.39-49
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• 2012

This study looked into the trend of expression of animal motifs that appears in modern fashion, and the values embedded in them. As to the research method, empirical analysis was performed on the works presented at the four global collections of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2001S/S to 2010F/W, as well as a literature review. As a result, animal motifs applied in modern fashion appeared in material groups, such as leather or feather. The first group shows a realistic material feel, with artificial leather or fur, expressed in a transformed complex animal motif, with process skill or various methods of expression. The second group is the case of a single motif or reality, mode, and ion pattern. Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used, and expressed in the various forms of pattern: pattern in a single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combining both animal and other shape. The third group is a small decorative ornament, including headset or accessory and makeup, which is transformed in an animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression, or to set the real animal to the stage for a performance. The embedded values were also categorized as natural beauty, sensual female beauty, pleasure, and ornamentation, which could be an endless spiritual source, and a breakthrough that enables us to show a creative and new aesthetic for the modern fashion field.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.59-72
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand how 19th Century's romanticism fashion is expressed in modern fashion and to investigate their relationship. The materials for study of Post-modern fashion after the 1990s are collected and analyzed from ${\ulcorner}Gap\;Collections{\lrcorner}$. The characteristics of romanticism such as sensuality, ornamentation, exoticism and mingler, which were demonstrated in the previous study, are analyzed as follows in the modern fashion. ${\cdot}$Sensuality was represented by exaggerating the human body with silhouette of past romantic fashion, making the human body mysterious with see-through material including romantic patterns and ornaments, and emphasizing human body line using thin drape-like materials. ${\cdot}$Ornamentation was created by combining skills brought from the past with newly developed techniques and materials so that it provides gorgeousness. ${\cdot}$Exoticism was expressed in more diverse exotic patterns, colors, accessories and details because of accelerated internationalization. ${\cdot}$Mingler was achieved by using materials which does not seem to be suitable for romanticism, and mixing of contrastive or heterogeneous patterns and materials. It was caused by the scientific development and trend of respecting diversity. Romanticism increases the diversity and possibility of new point of views in fashion, It also shows the desires to seek inner peace adopting images of different periods and culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.101-109
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• 2011

The present research aims to suggest the design of a new direction that copes with the changing environment. For example, the design for outdoor wear can be made through various methods that allows it to be worn for anytime and anywhere. Also, the research aimed to seek a development direction of outdoor wear design with environment-friendly expanded function that handles unpredictable environmental changes. The analysis of this research is as follows. First, it can be said that the trend of the outdoor wear design according to climate and environment changes is a design that seeks an efficient and rational role in functional aspects such as complex multi-functionality and minimum decorations as well as enhancing economic efficiency. Second, the outdoor wear design provides the optimal climate for the human body even in a continuously changing artificial environment. Its easy and comfortable function also helps to keep defense from possible risk elements. Lastly, this research seeks interactions among design, the body and environment. It also tries shape change using buttons and zippers, etc. according to expansion of a structural form of clothes as multi-functionality and versatility tools, and seeks a design form that can be reconstructed. The research that geared toward environmental changes should be further progressed in order to produce apparel that have efficient adaptability of any climate situations.

• Korean Journal of Breeding Science
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2010

The population structure of a domesticated species is influenced by the natural history of the populations of its pre-domesticated ancestors, as well as by the breeding system and complexity of breeding practices implemented by humans. In the genetic and population structure analysis of 122 South Asia collections using 29 simple sequence repeat (SSR) markers, 362 alleles were detected, with an average of 12.5 per locus. The average expected heterozygosity and polymorphism information content (PIC) for each SSR locus were 0.74 and 0.72,respectively. The model-based structure analysis revealed the presence of three clusters with the 91.8% (shared > 75%) membership, with 8.2% showing admixture. The genetic distances of Clusters 1-3 were 0.55, 0.56, and 0.68, respectively. Polymorphic information content followed the same trend (Cluster 3 had the highest value and Cluster 1 had smallest value), with genetic distances for each cluster of 0.52, 0.52, and 0.65, respectively. This result could be used for supporting rice breeding programs in South Asia countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.1058-1073
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• 2022

Big data analytics and social media have shifted the way fashion trends are dictated. Fashion as a medium for expressing gender has created new concepts of masculinity in popular culture, where men are increasingly depicted in a softer style. In this study, we analyzed 2,879 menswear collections over a 10-year period from Vogue US to uncover key menswear trends. Using Semantic Network Analysis (SNA) on Orange3, we were able to quantitatively analyze how contemporary menswear designers interpreted diversified trends of masculinity on the runway. Frequency and degree centrality were measured to weigh the significance of trend keywords. "Jacket (f = 3056; DC = 0.80), shirt (f = 1912; DC = 0.60) and pant (f = 1618; DC = 0.53)" were among the most prominent keywords. Our results showed that soft masculine keywords, e.g., "lace, floral, and pink" also appeared, but with the majority scoring DC = < 0.10. The findings provide an insight into key menswear trends through frequency, degree centrality measurements, time-series analysis, egocentric, and visual semantic networks. This also demonstrates the feasibility of using text analytics to visualize design trends, concepts, and patterns for application as an ideation tool for academic researchers, designers, and fashion retailers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.66-84
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• 2023

Handbags are a part of fashion and while their significance and value are increasing, research on this topic is lacking. This study defines handbags and categorizes the materials used for making handbags, sewing methods, expression techniques, and terminologies related to accessories. A total of 1,743 handbags that were released from the Spring 2020 to Fall 2023, Ready-to-Wear collections by 8 selected brands (Hermes, Dior, Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, and Alexander McQueen), were analyzed. Out of these, 732 unique designs, excluding those with only color variations, were studied. The most common sewing methods were 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting', 'Cylinder arm sewing', 'Cut, edge painting, and sewing', and 'Inverted seam', in that order. Slim strap designs primarily used the 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting' method, whereas the body, especially with narrow and hard leather, was best suited for the 'Cylinder arm sewing machine'. For expression techniques, the most frequently used methods were 'Quilting', 'Metal Eyelet', 'Embossing', 'Printing', 'Punching', and 'Weaving', respectively. The characteristics of each brand's production methods, expression techniques, and accessories were as follows: First, the exposure of logos and monograms is prominent. Unlike clothing, handbags often prominently feature the brand's logo or monogram. Second, signature quilting is a prominent feature. Quilting effectively conveys the brand's signature style, providing cushioning, volume, and pattern effects. Third, sustainable development is a growing trend. Brands are increasingly applying eco-friendly and socially responsible designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.86-105
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• 2010

Vintage fashion is a lot influenced by colors because an emotion is transmitted via images of "old feeling", "worn-out feeling" and "faded feeling" etc. Colors are visual sensation occurring at a time when lights stimulate an eye, which is a representative factor which humans first perceive when they touch objects. And colors in clothing function as a critical element which indicates an individual's impression and character as well as aesthetic sensation. In this study, I examined on the theoretical consideration and aesthetic characteristics via the previous literature on vintage fashion and colors. As an empirical study, I investigated on the colors of vintage fashion appearing in Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections, Paris from Spring/Summer, 2003 to Fall/Winter 2008. As a way for study, I investigated into the total 197 vintage fashion photos and calculated their RGB values by using photoshop. And I converted the values of the colors extracted into H V/C values by using Munsell Conversion Version 9.0.6 and analyzed on Munsell System of 10 Color Notation and the PCCS colors, classifying a color scheme by visual sensation measurement. The result of analyzing on the concept of vintage fashion and its color characteristics is as follows; Vintage fashion made an appearance the most in 2003 and 2004 and its colors appeared a lot in Y, YR, R and PB lines. Color tone concentrated on black and white, achromatic color and low chroma colors in a grayish line, chromatic color. Thus, the study found that colors suitable for a "worn-out", "faded" and "old" image are properly reflected in vintage fashion rather than a clear and bright background. In a color scheme, I found contrast color and same color appearing a lot, which gave an unharmonious feeling and a smack of the country. The study reveals that the color characteristic of vintage fashion is relatively diverse and complex in color, color tone or shade and color scheme, which shows a color trend which reflects a non-constructive and complex coordination characteristic instead of a standardized simple and clear image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.52-71
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• 2020

This study examines the color characteristics of the usage of the color pink in menswear by analyzing its usage status and method. It involves an empirical research method establishing the frame of the study through a document study centered on trend, gender neutral considerations, and the utilization of the color pink in men's fashion, by analyzing the characteristics of color and tone by extracting the pink color shown in menswear collections as well as analyzing and categorizing the fashion image and genderless characteristics. Analyzing the color and tone of the pink color shown indicate that bright, light and pale tones had higher proportions. Pink color can also be said to be utilized as a design element that gives off a younger and more vital color image in menswear. Further, the use of brighter and softer pink colors can be interpreted as reflecting modern society's demands of masculinity to change into a more sophisticated and soft image. To analyze the characteristics of the color pink utilized in gender neutral fashion, fashion images were presented as the analysis standard. An image grouping technique was used to classify pink while utilizing genderless types-fashion style. The result showed that even with the same pink color, the fashion image can vary with different methods of expression in terms of clothes and styling. The results of this study can serve as basic data for planning fashion design concepts as it analyzed pink-using fashion images and the genderless concept type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.429-445
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to provide ideas for the development of bag design by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe given the newtro trend pursuing analog sensitivity in modern society. The methods and scope of this study are as follows. First, the related literature and internet data were reviewed in order to examine the expression types and characteristics of the bags of the West and East. Next, the definition and characteristics of tassel and fringe decoration in terms of the history of clothing were analyzed. Finally, the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of tassels and fringe were derived through the analysis of modern bag design shown in the fashion collections since 2010. The bags decorated with the tassels and fringe bring a variety of visual effects depending on the attachment position, direction and material composition, concentrating the gaze and radiating original style. In this study, the expression of tassels and fringe in modern bag design was classified into three types: surface decoration, shape variability, and object combination. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe as decorative elements appeared through the mixture of heterogeneous materials and playfulness through imagination, exaggeration through extension of length and volume, and retro characteristics through reinterpretation of tradition. This study is expected to contribute to creative ideas of modern bag design which requires a global sense, which has been used in various cultures for a long time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.626-641
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• 2016

Maximalism in modern fashion, which is contrary to the current fashion market that emphasizes functionality and practicality, is an important notion that has been expressed in a variety of ways through designer's unique sense with a mixture of experimental design. With such creative work that suits a trend in novel fashion design, Rei Kawakubo is a current representative of Comme des Garcons who has not only introduced deconstructivism and Japanese-style avant-garde to the fashion industry for the first time. Our research, thus, analyzed the characteristic of maximalism's expression based on the features represented in her collection. Firstly, Expandability is classified as a method of distorting parts of a body and a method of excessively overinflating the silhouette of clothing. Secondly, decorations are expressed in the other as blending different types of materials together. Thirdly, fantasy evokes a fresh and stimulating surreal sensation that may only be felt in an imagination by assigning supernatural and amusing expression to the garment. The forth, fusion refers to a creation of novelty from combining various types of elements and images. The fifth, experiment is unique trait that develops mysterious images, consisted of various details. The sixth, non-structure is different from an initial form of garment that maintains a bilateral symmetry. The importance of our research lies in proposing a fundamental data for development of creative design as well as in expanding a range of possible expression for maximalism, by analyzing the characteristics of maximalism seen in Rei Kawakubo's collection.