• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.167-180
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• 2011

The portraits created in the age of Queen Elizabeth I show a very exquisite description about the ruff collar and cuffs representing the notable evolution of periodical costumes from a detailed viewpoint. This thesis analyzes the ruff collar and cuffs of the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I. The method used selects 32 pieces from the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I that are considered excellent depictions of a ruff collar and cuffs, to investigate size, form and decorations. Conclusively, the ruff collar tends to be extremely enlarged and thickened (coinciding with the development of glue) while the cuffs denote the aspect of double cuffs coupled with the turn-back cuffs without a change in size. These traits were widely shown from 1585 to 1587, while after 1588 the ruff cuffs completely disappeared in the portraits of Elizabeth I. At the same time, the change of a ruff collar was remarkable, the collar being in the erect position behind the head (with the use of supporters), of a consistent thickness and decoration of elaborate lace. During the transition period from the $16^{th}$ century to the $17^{th}$ century the earliest change was in cuffs followed by collars. This research is a helpful guide to detect the relatively exact date of portraits not definitively identified in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century and to observe the microscopic evolution of costumes in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.48-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the similarities between religious costumes and Kazakh and Tajik minority women's costumes in the Chinese northwestern minority population that believes in both Islam and Shamanism. The research was conducted by investigating the forms, colors, and patterns of 240 representative costume pieces and making quantitative comparisons between religious and traditional costumes. The results showed that the Kazakh and Tajik costumes were similarly formed, both intended to cover the human body. Both the Islamic and traditional headdresses were also similarly shaped. In terms of color, black, white, green, and blue were found frequently in the Islamic religious costumes, as were red and yellow. Red, white, and brown, ascribed to the colors of shamanism, signifying incantations, were also frequent, indicating that this was engrained in their lives. A review of the traditional costumes revealed the patterns of Islam. Plants, geometry, abstraction, and letter patterns were dominant, whereas the meaning of the Islamic patterns, rebirth, sun, life, and hope, influenced the traditional costume patterns. Patterns associated with incantations, like the animal horns shown in the shamanism religious costumes, were persistently observed even after the people were converted to Islam. This study on the similarities between religious and traditional costumes in the Chinese minority might help us understand the connection between religious and traditional costumes and elucidate the cultural costume transition process.

• Journal of the Korea institute for structural maintenance and inspection
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.19-26
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• 2024

In this study, the compressive behavior of a 1/12.5 scale model of a wind tower support structure connection was experimentally analyzed. A high-performance cementitious grout with a compressive strength of 140 MPa was used to fill the connection, and experiments were conducted with shear key spacing, the shape, and connection length as variables. When the number of shear keys in the connection is the same, the smaller the spacing of the shear keys than the length of the connection, the higher the shear strength, and for the same spacing and connection length, the higher the height of the shear keys, the higher the strength. In addition, it was found that the strength showed a linear behaviour until the connection slip reached 1.0 mm, and it reached the maximum strength at 7.0 mm connection slip showing a non-linear behaviour as the load increased. It was found that the failure mode changed from interfacial shear failure to grout failure as the strength increased according to the shape and spacing of the shear key, and brittle failure did not occur due to steel fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.46-64
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• 1994

Among every civilized people salt has been recognized as an essential foodstuff to the human society without which even man's survivor is unthinkable. The cultural-anthropological meaning of salt is estimated highly as well, and in geographical perspective salt itself symbolize regional interrelationship. Playing a decisive role in freeing innermost settlement from isolation, salt aiso made a contribution to expanding human habitats. This study tries to reconstruct historica geography of 18th and 19th century surrounding traditional salt-roasting (chayeom). The Joolpo Inlet area which is located on the mid-western coast in Honem Region is selected for study area. Established on the basis of optimum physical geographical conditions such as topography, climate and vegetation, salt-making of Joolpo Inlet area was run dynamically with the sudden turn of events in the 18-19th century which was chacterized as an age of transition from medieval society to modern one. In this paper the writer attempts to clarify mainly following three points: physical conditions and socio-economic background leading to the initiation and later development of roasting of salt in Joolpo Bay; distribution of saltworks; methods of saltmaking. Main points drawn from these analyses can be summarized as follows: of iron pan and cow-drawn tools rendered labour-saving and output growth. 1, Saltworks of Joolpo Inlet area in the 18-19th century were distributed evenly over Kobu, Puan, Mujang and Heungduck counties among which Kobu's was located in Puanmyon - a sort of exclave. All saltworks belonging to above four counties were clasified as most lucrative ones in Honam Region on government archives. In particular, Gumdang saltwork which belongs to Mujang county is noteworthy in that it was first introduced by one Paekje priest in 6th century and therefore it provides a clue to examine the history of salt-roasting of Joolpo Inlet area. In light of the fact that temple or monastery economy, regardless of East and West, has been closely connected with traditional industry, the case of Gumdang is not unusual. 2. The process of saltmaking follows this order: harrowing of salt field exposed to solar heat; construction of saltern mound with saline earth; acquiring of brine by leaching saline earth; roasting of salt. Salterns (saltworks) are consisted with various salt making facilities such as roasting shed, saltern mound, salt field, salt well) salt pit or brine pit) and seawater reservoir. Among them roasting shed which is constructed chiefly with hundreds of pieces of pine tree as a frame and with straw as roof and wall is customarily considered as an unit of saltwork. And inside it is saltpan made of two kinds of materials, that is iron pan or plaster pan. The area attached to one unit of roasting shed is approximately 1 ha, and that of saltern mound is a tenth of it.

• Journal of Popular Narrative
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.107-142
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• 2021

Emergence of new media platform had changed relationship between the broadcaster and the viewer, which used to form 'performer-audience' structure. This research has focused on the transition of 'streamer-viewer' role in single-media broadcasting, such as Youtube or Twitch, and identify how they progress group storytelling as a team. Walter Benjam and Leslie Marmon Silko's notion of 'story and storyteller' and Erving Goffman's 'social role theory' was used to define participants' role in new media broadcasting. channel, on Youtube, was selected and analyzed as example case. The domain of 'front stage' was broadened in recorded contents comparing to live streaming. The audience of live streaming is included to the front stage during the expansion. The role of streamer, game participant, and live stream contents viewer is also adjusted during the change, which leads to group-creation of the contents. Streamer plays a role of main-storyteller and suggest identity of the community. Game participants work as sub-storyteller, filling in the blank space in game storytelling and making it sophisticated. They also perform based on community's identity, which streamer has built in advance. Lastly, live steam viewers are intermittent sub-storyteller, which seldom add up the narrative. Though, their main role is to preserve identity of game broadcasting community by reacting according to community's identity. As a result, the game broadcasting narrative is developed by combining and adding up pieces of story made in different level and role of participants. The research redefine the role of viewer and storytelling method in new media, especially in single-person broadcasting. Considering the rapid shift in recent media and contents, a new approach to the streamer-veiwer role and group storytelling of this research can be one of the new method to analyze contents produced in new media, such as Youtube.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.1
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• pp.126-144
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• 2024

The chrysanthemum vine pattern box from the Goryeo Dynasty expresses in great detail the representative features of Goryeo Dynasty lacquerware with mother-of-pearl, such as engraving patterns on the surface of fine mother-of-pearl, expressing vine stems using metal wires, and twisting metal wires to form the boundaries of each patterns. While the lacquerware with mother-of-pearl that remains today from the Goryeo Dynasty has the form of a sutra box and a box with lid, the chrysanthemum vine pattern box that is the subject of this study is in the shape of a box with a separate lid and body, making it difficult to estimate the purpose of production or the stored contents. In this study, we attempted to confirm the formative characteristics of the chrysanthemum vine pattern box in order to confirm its original form, and to investigate its structure and production technique through X-ray transmission. In addition, we attempted to identify the use and production purpose of the box by classifying and comparing the previously known lacquerware with mother-ofpearl from the Goryeo Dynasty by type. As a result of the investigation, fabric was confirmed the bottom of body and inner box through X-ray images. Through this, it was confirmed that the 'Mogsimjeopichilgi'(wooden core grabbing fabric technique) of wrapping the object with fabric was used. And through wood grain, it was possible to confirm the wooden board composition of the part presumed to be the restored part and the part presumed to have had existing Jangseog. In addition, it was confirmed that the joints were connected in a Majdaeim(part to part). Based on the survey results, a total of 14 pieces, including 9 Sutra boxes, 3 boxes, and 2 small boxes, that remain from the Goryeo Dynasty were classified by type and examined for similarity. Among them, there is a "Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern Sutra Box" from a private collection in Japan, a "Black Lacquered Chrysanthemum Arabesque Bun Sutra Box" from the Tokugawa Art Museum, a "Sutra Holder" from the British Museum, and a "Small Box with a Mother-of-Pearl Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern" from a private collection in Korea. The pattern composition of five points was most similar to the subject of this study. As a result of comparing the damage pattern, formative characteristics, and structural features of each part, it is presumed that the sutra holder in the British Museum was transformed into its current form from the original the chrysanthemum vine patterned box. Lastly, in order to confirm the purpose of production, that is, the use of this box, we investigated examples of Tripitaka Koreana printed version produced at a time similar to the social atmosphere of Goryeo at the time. Following the Mongol(元) invasion after the Goryeo military regime at the time, sutras appeared to pray for the stability of the nation and the soul of an individual, and with the development of domestic printing and paper in the 13th century, it gradually coincided with the transition from a scroll to a folded form, and the form of a box changed from a box. It is believed that the storage method also changed.