• Title/Summary/Keyword: Traditional Textiles

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A Study on the Recognition of Korean Image Fashion Designs by U.K Fashion Specialists (한국적(韓國的) 패션디자인에 대(對)한 영국(英國) 패션전문가(專門家)들의 인식(認識) 조사(調査))

  • Park, Hye-Won
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.69-90
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

The Study of Costume in a Mill Yang Kobumri Mural Painting (밀양(密陽) 고법리(古法里) 고분벽화(古墳壁畵)에 나타난 복식(服飾) 연구(硏究))

  • Jo, Oh-Soon;Yoo, Joo-Lee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.105-115
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    • 2001
  • When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

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An Analysis of Consumer Emotion for Product Planning of Smart Clothing (스마트 의류 상품 기획을 위한 감성 효과 분석)

  • Cho, Hyun-Seung;Kim, Jung-Ho;Koo, Hye-Ran
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.49-56
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    • 2014
  • This study aims at providing basic data for product planning to design smart clothing and to develop applications, focusing on consumers by satisfying their emotions through analyzing emotional factors on smart clothing, comparing emotional differences between conventional clothing and it, reviewing changes of consumers' emotion by integrating the product and clothing and researching differences of preference and purchase intention between smart clothing and traditional one. As the results of the study, emotional factors for smart clothing were analyzed with total 6 including 'technical', 'comfort', 'aesthetic', 'modern', 'fun' and 'multiple' factors. Among them, except for 'comport', five emotional factors showed emotional factors between conventional sport-casual clothing and smart clothing. That is, emotional factors of 'technical', 'aesthetic', 'modern', 'fun' and 'multiple' were emphasized more in smart clothing than conventional ones, indicating that they should be considered in planning products of smart clothing. Though there was no significant difference of preference between smart clothing and conventional clothing, in case of comparison of averages, that of smart clothing was a little higher. For purchase intention, smart clothing was lower than the conventional clothing. So preference seems to be not directly related to consumers' immediate purchase. To make consumers' interests and preference to result in purchase, it is necessary to develop smart clothing with more various applications and to prepare commercializing strategies. As the results of the analysis on free-descriptive questionnaire survey, consumers were interested in development of smart clothing to help diet with functions including energy harvesting from body motion, calorification and perspiration, measurement of motion and calory consumption as well as health-care type smart clothing to measure heartbeat and ECG. Reflecting these requirements from the consumers, they should be utilized as guidance to develop smart clothing in the future.

Stability Assessment on Materials of Cultural Property by Fumigants Containing Ethylene Oxide (Ethylene oxide계 훈증 약제에 의한 문화재 재질의 안정성 연구)

  • Jeong, Soyoung;Kim, Young-hee;Lee, Jeung-min
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.48 no.3
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    • pp.46-59
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    • 2015
  • This study was conducted focusing on the stability on materials of cultural property when the fumigant containing ethylene oxide was applied among some kinds of fumigant. Four kinds of specimens from paper, textile, metal and pigment were prepared to compare color difference, weight, surface condition before and after treatment and FT-IR analysis was carried out on specimens of paper and textile. In the case of fumigation treatment, it was conducted by two groups : one is made up of specimens with the non-fumigation as control groups, the other is made up of specimens treated with ethylene oxide + $HFC_{134a}$ and ethylene oxide + $CO_2$ as experimental groups. The result of color difference showed that there were color differences on the specimens of Hanji(Korean traditional paper), silver, cotton, ramie and yellow pigment. Especially, it was found out there was color change more than 6.0 on average from the silver specimen. However, in the silver specimen's case, color change in the non-fumigated specimen was relatively higher than those of fumigant-treated specimens, therefore, it is judged that fumigant doesn't have a decisive effect on color change in specimens, but required caution while fumigating. The result of weight measurement, there were totally 0~2% weight changes and the slightest change was found in the metal specimen, the biggest change in the papers. The result of microscopic observation on the surface of specimens showed color changes and especially, the biggest change on the silver specimen was observed. But no change in components was identified from FT-IR analysis of papers and textiles.

A Study on Traditional Costume of China's Minorities(II) - Centering Around Yunnan Province Minorities - (중국소수민족(中國少數民族)의 민족복식(民族服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)(II) - 운남성(雲南省)의 소수민족(少數民族)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Young-Sin;Hong, Jung-Min
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.65-80
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    • 1999
  • In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

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The Effect of E-SERVQUAL on e-Loyalty for Apparel Online Shopping (재망상복장구물중전자(在网上服装购物中电子)E-SERVQUAL 대전자충성도적영향(对电子忠诚度的影响))

  • Kim, Eun-Young;Jackson, Vanessa P.
    • Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.57-63
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    • 2009
  • With an exponential increase in electronic commerce (e-commerce), marketers are attempting to gain a competitive advantage by emphasizing service quality and post interaction service aspects, which leads to customer satisfaction or behavioral consequence. Particularly for apparel, service quality is one of the key determinants in encouraging customer e-loyalty, and hence the success of apparel retailing in the context of electronic commerce. Therefore, this study explores e-service quality (E-SERVQUAL) factors and their unique effects on e-loyalty for apparel online shopping based on Parasuraman et al' s (2005) framework. Specific objectives of this study are to identify underlying dimension of E-SERVQUAL, and analyze a structural model for examining the effect of E-SERVQUAL on e-loyalty for online apparel shopping. For the theoretical framework of service quality in the context of online shopping, literatures on traditional and electronic service quality factors were comparatively reviewed, and two aspects of core and recovery services were identified. This study hypothesized that E-SERVQUAL has an effect on e-loyalty; customer satisfaction has a positive effect on e-service loyalty for apparel online shopping; and customer satisfaction mediates in the effect of E-SERVQUAL on e-loyalty for apparel online shopping. A self-administered questionnaire was developed based on literatures. A total of 252 usable questionnaires were obtained from online consumers who had purchase experience with online shopping for apparel products and reside in standard metropolitan areas, in the United States. Factor analysis (e.g., exploratory, confirmatory) was conducted to assess the validity and reliability and the structural equation model including measurement and structural models was estimated via LISREL 8.8 program. Findings showed that the E-SERVQUAL of shopping websites for apparel consisted of five factors: Compensation, Fulfillment, Efficiency, System Availability, and Responsiveness. This supports Parasuraman (2005)'s E-S-QUAL encompassing two aspects of core service (e.g., fulfillment, efficiency, system availability) and recovery related service (e.g., compensation, responsiveness) in the context of apparel shopping online. In the structural equation model, there are five exogenous latent variables for e-SERVQUAL factors; and two endogenous latent variables (e.g., customer satisfaction, e-loyalty). For the measurement model, the factor loadings for each respective construct were statistically significant and were greater than .60 and internal consistency reliabilities ranged from .85 to .88. In the estimated structural model of the e-SERVEQUAL factors, the system availability was found to have direct and positive effect on e-loyalty, whereas efficiency had a negative effect on e-loyalty for apparel online shopping. However, fulfillment was not a significant predictor for explaining consequences of E-SERVQUAL for apparel online shopping. This finding implies that perceived service quality of system available was likely to increase customer satisfaction for apparel online shopping. However, it was not supported that e-loyalty was determined by service quality, because service quality has an indirect effect on e-loyalty (i.e., repurchase intention) by mediating effect of value or satisfaction in the context of online shopping for apparel. In addition, both compensation and responsiveness were found to have a significant impact on customer satisfaction, which influenced e-loyalty for apparel online shopping. Thus, there was significant indirect effect of compensation and responsiveness on e-loyalty. This suggests that the recovery-specific service factors play an important role in maximizing customer satisfaction levels and then maintaining customer loyalty to the online shopping site for apparel. The findings have both managerial and research implications. Fashion marketers can establish long-term relationship with their customers based on continuously measuring customer perceptions for recovery-related service quality, such as quick responses to problem and returns, and compensation for customers' problem after their purchases. In order to maintain e-loyalty, recovery services play an important role in the first choice websites for consumers to purchase clothing. Given that online consumers may shop anywhere, a marketing strategy for improving competitive advantages is to provide better service quality, maximize satisfaction, and turn to creating customers' e-loyalty for apparel online shopping. From a researcher's perspective, there are some limitations of this research that should be considered when interpreting its findings. For future research, findings provide a basis for the further study of this important topic along both theoretical and empirical dimensions. Based on the findings, more comprehensive models for predicting E-SERVQUAL's consequences can be developed and tested. For global fashion marketing, this study can expand to a cross-cultural approach into e-service quality for apparel by including multinational samples.

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A Study on the Meaning and Types of Banpo [斑布] during the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 반포(斑布)의 의미와 형식 연구)

  • Ree, Jiwon
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.53 no.3
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    • pp.164-183
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    • 2020
  • In the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty, the historic record of Banpo is fragmentary and contains many missing details. The main reason is a lack of associated literature, and it is also significant that the actual substance used is not clear at present. Banpo is a kind of cotton, but this has not been confirmed in the traditional textiles that are currently handed down. The word Ban [斑] in Banpo means "stain", and the letter Po [布] means "fabric". At the border of white discourse, Banpo did not receive attention as a research topic. This study is an attempt to restore some of the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty through Banpo. Banpo is not just limited to the Joseon Dynasty; it is an important material for examining the development of textile culture and exchange in East Asia. This study was broadly divided into three parts. First, the record and meaning of Banpo during the Joseon Dynasty were examined. Records of Banpo can be seen from the early Joseon period during King Sejo and Seongjong, and the production and actual use of Banpo have been confirmed. Banpo was maintained until the beginning of the 20th century, but is no longer observed. Banpo is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn dyed in many colors and has appeared in Southeast Asia since ancient times. In East Asia, there are other fabrics similar to Banpo, such as Ho [縞], Sum [纖], and Chim [綅]. In particular, the correlation between Banpo and Ho is an important link in understanding Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty. Second, the meaning of Banpo was examined from various angles through comprehensive analysis of Chinese and Japanese literature records and cases. The appearance and development of Banpo moved in sync with the period when cotton was introduced into East Asia. In East Asia, cotton was introduced and produced in earnest from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the meaning of Banpo was diversified. In China, the name of Banpo was changed to Hwapo [花布], Gizapo [碁子布], Gizahwapo [棋子花布], etc. Japan was late to introduce cotton and developed it in acceptance of the changed meaning. In Japan, use of the name Banpo is not on record, but a Ryujo [柳條] fabric of the same type as banpo has been identified. This Ryujo is the same concept as Ho and Hwapo, and later merged into Ho. Names such as Ho, Hwapo, Banpo, etc. were used differently in each country, but the form was shared across East Asia. Third, based on the meaning of Banpo shared in East Asia, the format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty was classified. The format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into grid and striped versions. The name Banpo disappeared over time, but the form remained and was passed down until recently. I hope that this study will help restore Banpo in the future.

A study on artificial flowers in the late Joseon Dynasty, focusing on a birthday banquet inBongsudang Hall in 1795 (1795년 봉수당 진찬(奉壽堂進饌)으로 보는 조선 후기 채화(綵花) 고찰)

  • LEE Kyunghee;KIM Youngsun
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.56 no.1
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    • pp.182-205
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    • 2023
  • The use of royal artificial flowers was finally found through schematics and records in Wonhaeng Eulmyojeongri Uigwe, which organized the procession to Hwaseong in 1795. The results of classifying the uses of artificial flowers in the brthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall in 1795 and considering the shape, user, and usage are as follows. According to literature records, artificial flowers were made with high-quality materials such as gold, silver, and silk thread in the early period, but were mainly made of paper in the later period. Artificial flowers were used for decorating official hats, Bongsudang Hall, and banquet tables. The Sagwonhwa was used for decoration of the official hats of members of the royal family, and the one on the top was called Eosam-Sagwonhwa. At the birthday banquet inBongsudang Hall, King Jeongjo and Hyegyeonggung used the Eosam-Sagwonhwa and put it on the right side of the official hats. Officials put peach blossom with two petals on the left side of the official hats for decoration. The artificial flowers for decoration of the official hats of musicians and dancers were more expensive and flashier than the officials' ones. Depending on the dance, several artificial flowers were inserted into the official hats. When measuring the size of artificial flowers, the scale used was when making a ceremonial article. For artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet hall, red and white peach blossoms were placed in two jars with dragons painted on them and them placed on two red-painted tables, respectively. The table and jar with flowers were tied together with a red cotton string and fixed so as not to fall over. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of King Jeongjo, Hyegyeonggung, and the king's sisters were a large lotus, medium-sized lotus, peony, rose, and specially made peach flowers. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of guests and officials were small lotuses and peach blossoms. The artificial flowers used in the birthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall the most were peach blossoms, and peaches had the meaning of longevity and exorcism. It is expected that the above research results will be helpful in understanding the characteristics and usage of artificial flowers in the period of King Jeongjo and use in reproducing royal feasts and producing traditional cultural contents.

Anthropometric Measurement, Dietary Behaviors, Health-related Behaviors and Nutrient Intake According to Lifestyles of College Students (대학생의 라이프스타일 유형에 따른 신체계측, 식행동, 건강관련 생활습관 및 영양소 섭취상태에 관한 연구)

  • Cheong, Sun-Hee;Na, Young-Joo;Lee, Eun-Hee;Chang, Kyung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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    • v.36 no.12
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    • pp.1560-1570
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences according to lifestyle in anthropometric measurement, dietary attitude, health-related behaviors and nutrient intake among the college students. The subjects were 994 nation-wide college students (male: 385, female: 609) and divided into 7 clusters (PEAO: passive economy/appearance-oriented type, NCPR: non-consumption/pursuit of relationship type, PTA: pursuit of traditional actuality type, PAT: pursuit of active health type, UO: utility-oriented type, POF: pursuit of open fashion type, PFR: pursuit of family relations type). A cross-sectional survey was conducted using a self administered questionnaire, and the data were collected via Internet or by mail. The nutrient intake data collected from food record were analyzed by the Computer Aided Nutritional Analysis Program. Data were analyzed by a SPSS 12.0 program. Average age of male and female college students were 23.7 years and 21.6 years, respectively. Most of the college students had poor eating habits. In particular, about 60% of the PEAO group has irregularity in meal time. The students in PAH and POF groups showed significantly higher consumption frequency of fruits, meat products and foods cooked with oil compared to the other groups. As for exercise, drinking and smoking, there were significant differences between PAH and the other groups. Asked for the reason for body weight control, 16.2% of NCPR group answered "for health", but 24.8% of PEAO group and 26.3% of POF group answered "for appearance". Calorie, vitamin A, vitamin $B_2$, calcium and iron intakes of all the groups were lower than the Korean DRIs. Female students in PTA group showed significantly lower vitamin $B_1$ and niacin intakes compared to the PFR group. Therefore, these results provide nation-wide information on health-related behaviors and nutrient intake according to lifestyles among Korean college students.