• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.395-406
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• 1996

This article aims, by analyzing structurally the codification of dress sign in Korean society, the signifying system of the codes and their message communicated, to make clear a signifying structure that would be codified through the relationship between abstract concepts and real condition of dress. I used the semiotic theory of Ferdinand de Saussure′s conception on structuralismly the codification, cultural semiology of Roland Barthes and Myung-Sook Han′s formula of dress structure as tools analyse may objective of wedding dress of folks in Choson Dynasty, which has been successive our traditional Korean wedding dress. My results of the study are : The procedure of wedding ceremony in Choson Dynasty was presented in texts like Juga-garye, Sarye-peonram and Kukjo-orye, its dress system has been more emphasized on language, and aspect of social system, than parole, one of individual realization. In addition, the meanings of marrage such as "Oneness of bride and bridegroom", "Mixture of two sexes", "Blessing of good luck", were included in the signified like the style, pattern and color of the wedding dress, and specially, pattern and color, the articulated morphemes, was emphasized, When we combinated terms of dress in Choson Dynasty with syntagmatic, regarding their list as paradigmatic, it will signify a wedding dress, and according to combinating ways, it amy be divided as sign of dresses of bride and bridgeroom by sex or king, gentry and common people by class. Wedding Dress in Choson Dynasty = [{ODx(U/Dxu/d)}+AC·H·FW].

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.159-174
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• 2017

The study uses lists of wedding gifts used from old Korean documents written in Hangeul in the western Gyungnam province during the 20th century. The study analyzed four lists of wedding gifts from the Muncheongak archive and two lists from the archive of ancient document. This analysis found that clothing accounts for the majority of the items in the lists, and items such as furniture, jewelry, household goods, and medical materials were also recorded. That the furnishings were commonly prepared by the groom's side, and the fact that the number of jeogori was higher than the number of skirt, speaks to the unique wedding custom of Gyeongsang province. While the groom's list of wedding gifts included a record of the bride's ornaments, jewelry, and furnishings in the bride's list, the groom's nickel top-knot pin was only included as an ornament. In the list of wedding gifts between brothers, the gifts for the eldest son differed from those for the third son in terms of number and price. The list of wedding gifts between father and son illustrates how economic development and changing times wedding custom. The lists of wedding gifts in the old Korean documents shed light on the oral research into 20th century wedding custom, which will be used as basic data in researching and reproducting the wedding culture and life conditions of the time.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.19-32
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Korean traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses'aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, jukyee, whalot, weonsam and private weonsam and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows; Aesthetical senses shown in the Korean traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, whalot adpated revelation as its main factor while the remaining three types, or jukyee, weonsam and private weonsam were found having dignity as their main factors. Adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, warn, chaste, intellectual, bright, unique, regular, luxurious, classical, ornamental and beautiful suggesting that the Korean traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, but high in attractiveness and aesthetic beauty and has a better classical harmonization of dignity and revelation. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality(Korean and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization. Japanese people had unique and interesting senses while Korean people, chaste, calm and delicate aesthetical senses. According to gender, men revealed free senses and women, classical ones. According whether of specialization or non-specialization those who specialized in a related field had more unique, straight, regular, luxurious and interesting aesthetical senses that those who did not specialize.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.208-225
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify trends in modern Korean clothing design through investigation and analysis of the types and respective characteristics of silhouettes, colors, materials, patterns, and decorations present. To this end, research methods such as literature research and content analysis through case study research were used. The results of the wedding magazine data analysis were largely classified by design element and based on such, the conclusions are as follows. First, in the analysis of silhouettes, the appearance rate of traditional items decreased over the selected period and that of modified items increased. Second, among the same colors, adjacent colors, proximity complementary colors, contrast, and other harmonies, adjacent color harmonies showed the highest rate of appearance. Third, the cases where the same materials were used for the top and bottom elements showed a similar appearance rate as those where different materials were used. It was also concluded that traditional materials are being replaced by modern materials. Fourth, regarding the arrangement of patterns, the appearance rate of the absence of patterns gradually increases. Fifth, there were more case of decorations than those of none. This study made it possible to grasp the changes in trends of modern Korean clothing from 2011 to 2020 and provide basic data for the development of the Korean clothing market industry.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.64-76
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• 2014

This study aimed to analyze the expressive characteristics of design elements and fashion images shown in wedding dress styles in the 2000s. The findings were as follows. First, in wedding dress style the fashion images analysis showed that classic images appeared the most frequently, and fantastic, modern, kitsch, sexy, futuristic and ethnic images appeared the most, respectively. Second, design elements analysis of fashion images concluded that as for the appearance frequency of the silhouette, A line was the highest in classic, fantastic and kitsch images and H line was the highest in ethnic, modern, futuristic and sexy image. As for the appearance frequency of the necklines, bared top neckline was the highest in all of the fashion images. As for waistlines, natural waistlines except modern image of obscure waistlines appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for sleeve, sleeveless appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for material, see-through was the highest in ethnic, classic, sexy, fantastic and kitsch images. Luster material was the highest in modern and futuristic image. As for colors, white and achromatic, traditional wedding dress color, appeared the same in all of the seven fashion images, but chromatic colors appeared the most frequently in ethnic images. Third, the distinguishing expression features of fashion images shown in the wedding dress style of the times is as follows: 'Total fashion in wedding dress style', 'Emphasizes sexy image expression in wedding dress style', 'Various co-existence of wedding dress style', and 'Avant-garde expression in wedding dress style'.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.999-1010
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were to investigate used patterns in Hanbok and to find out a classification and a characteristic of motifs. The data made use of 111 pictures constituted Gegory(a Korean jacket) and Chima(a skirt) in photographs collected in wedding magazine(Wedding 21'). The data was analyzed by frequency, contents analysis. Pattern's use or not in Hanbok and a sort, a arrangement, a way of expression of patterns using frequency Classified and characteristics of motifs were analyzed contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows. First, a sort of patterns was lots of flower motifs of the plant pattern. An arrangement of and expression of patterns used mainly a partial arrangement and embroidery expression. Second, the subjects classified using criterion of classification of a external feature, forms of expression, and simplicity/complexity of line. Third, the motifs classified into plants, an animal, geometry, abstraction, and a natural object. The plant motifs were perceived the focus of flower, a combination of a flower and a stem in the plant motifs. The subjects perceived as a simplicity/complexity of flower and a drawing line of a flower and a stem.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.81-96
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• 2014

The meanings of colors vary with time and space. For the most important events in a person's life, such as wedding or funeral, people use color to symbolize their identities or roles. Traditionally, the colors of dress had indicated the wearer's age, class, or marital status in Korea. However, Korea's exposure to western cultures has affected in many dimensions of its modern history. Especially, influenced by social change, the traditional dress has undergone many modifications in forms, silhouettes, materials, and color. However, women's mourning dress has been maintained as a long lasting tradition and the use of white in mourning dress has been regarded as a norm until recently, while men have worn a regular black suit with a black tie. But, the shift from white to black in mourning dress has been observed in recent mourning practices. To examine this change of color in Korean traditional mourning dress, a historical approach utilizing multiple resources, such as interview, observations of events, documents, and archival records was applied.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.231-240
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• 2003

모든 문화가 모두 그러하듯이 옷의 색채, 그 배후에는 그 민족이 몸담고 살아온 자연환경과 그 환경 속에서 화육(化育)화된 인생관이나 근성이 작용하고 있다. 혼례는 두 성(性)이 좋게 합하여 위로는 종묘(宗廟)를 모시고 아래로는 후세를 이루는 것을 널리 사회적으로 인정받는 것이다. 예(禮)에서 기본중에 하나가 복식이다 혼례복에 나타난 색채가 가지고 있는 의미와 상징성은 조선시대의 미(美)와 유기적인 조합으로 잘 나타나 있다. 현재까지도 지켜져 내려오는 전통 혼례복 속에 나타난 오방색의 특징을 찾아봄으로써 통념적으로 알고있는 다섯 가지의 촌스러운 색조화가 아니라 자연환경과 같이 청명하며 화려하고 철학적인 색채임을 분석하고자 한다. 본고는 한국혼례복에 나타난 색채의 특징을 알아보기 위하여 한ㆍ중ㆍ일의 혼례복과 단청을 일 예로써 비교하고 한국 전통 색채의 이론적 배경을 살펴보았다. 이를 통해서 한국색채는 의미론적 상징 색채이며 그 근원은 음양오행에서 출발했으며 도교의 태극도설, 유교의 도참사상과 단청의 색채가 직접 관계가 있음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 음양(陰陽)의 오채(五彩)가 삼라만상(森羅萬象)을 나타내는 객이고 하나가 아닌 두 가지 색 또는 그 이상의 색채와 연결될 때에 상호작용에 의하여 균형미를 이루는 색채이다. 또한 자연숭배 및 인간존엄 사상이 깃들여 있으며 길복(吉福)을 기원함과 동시에 벽사(僻邪)의 의미를 부여한 것을 알 수 있다. 인간이 복되고 부정함에서 벗어나 우주만물이 조화롭게 이루어지길 기원하는 조형미는 시각적인 만족만이 아닌 정신적인 만족까지도 추구하는 미의식인 것이다.