• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.63-75
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• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2006년도 Seoul The Costume Culture Association & Ars Textrina Joint International Conference
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• pp.87-89
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• 2006

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.82-93
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• 2009

This study is considered about the Taekwondo(跆拳道) uniform classified by period and analyzed the current Taekwondo uniform. And founded on this contents, new designs of uniform, that a functional side are considered and can symb이ize the identity of Taekwondo, are presented through this study. Ancient times to the present time, the Taekwondo uniform classified into three types according to 'Period of putting on our nation's costume'(three kingdoms${\sim}$Joseon(朝鮮) times), 'Period of confusion on uniform'(Japan's colonial rule of Korea${\sim}$-the early 1970s), 'Period of the settlement on official uniform'(the late 1970s-the present time). And besides, the shape of our nation's costume in ancient times is succeeded until Joseon times and this basic style becomes the outset on the current Taekwondo uniform. The designed uniforms are connoted the notion of the aesthetic appreciation in Korean traditional costume, that is, a symbolic, dignified, moderate appreciation with the consideration of a functional side for Taekwondo. And the contents on the presented designs are classified into 'shape, pattern, color'. First, these designs that are adapted the shape of Baji(바지) Jeogori(저고리)-belt, which have symbolized our nation's costume, and the shape of Bacja(배자) had used in Joseon times, are connoted a 'traditional appreciation with functional side'. Second, these designs, which are adapted the patterns of the active image(a bugbear, flying horse, tiger for embroidered patches, Taegeuk(太極)) in a modern style, express a 'symbolic, dignified appreciation'. Third, these designs are well-matched a black and white color with multicolored stripes(saekddong, 색동), and its ones are connoted a 'moderate and symbolic appreciation'.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.145-152
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out the traditional decoration techniques in the Korean costume. Both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and investigated the traditional decoration techniques used in the related literatures and museum catalogues. The results were as follows. The broad and back stitching are fundamental stitching, which used to Nubi and Keki. Top stitching applied broadly to the Korean costume, for example, Jergori, Wonsam, Jeonbok, Beosun, Bojagj and so on. The expression techniques for top stitching were one, two or three stitches. When the top stitching was used as colorful stitches, they were more decorative. The Zatmulim was used for the decorative effect on the seam line because it was triangular shaped and became more effective by changing the rotor and size. Sunmulim was used on the narrow line such as the seam lines of Gergori and Chima. The bakchi decoration was imitating a bat shape, had a meaning of bringing the goodness and gave the tiny and elaborated image. It was used to the neckline of Geogori, seam line of Chima, Pungcha Bazi and so on. Sattgi was used to attaching the bottom of two stiff fabrics adopting for Beosun, Ayam and Norigae. When it used colorful strings, the more decorative effect was added. The knot for button used the fabric instead of buttons and applied to the Cheonlik, Gergori. The aesthetic values of the traditional decoration techniques in the costume were both natural beauty and practicality with creativity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.24-33
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and image of oriental costume design on represented among three countries, Korea, China and Japan. The specific objectives were; 1) to identify the design characteristics of oriental costume. 2) to investigate the hierarchic structure of oriental costume image and the meaning structure of oriental costume image. The stimulus were 75 costume design of contemporary costume which represented the traditional image of orient. The main survey of questionary consisted of their evaluation of the oriental costume image by 26 semantic differential bi-polar scales and the subjects were 99 female students majoring in clothing and textiles. The data were analyze by Cluster analysis. Factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe test. The major findings were as follows; 1) As a result of design analysis, costume design of Korea, China, Japan had differences on form, color, texture, pattern, ornament, etc. 2) The hierarchic structure of oriental costume image consisted of elegance, sexy, feminine. Through factor analysis about oriental costume image 7 factors were identified; Attention, Attractiveness, Sexiness, Activeness, Weightness, Classics, Classics, Maturity. It was found out strongly that Korean costume image was simple and comfort image, Chinese costume image was sexy and feminine image, Japanese costume image was luxurious and mature image.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2012

In this study, Characteristics of colors on Chinese traditional costume in Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasty were compared. And general colors of Chinese traditional costume and the viewpoint of them were considered. The purpose of this study were to apt colors of Chinese traditional costumes to the sensory appetite of modern people for new things, and make the recreation inspired by new senses be applied into the fashion industry effectively. The results were as followed : Firstly, colors distribution of 5 dynasties were different. In the Tang, R(red) was highest, YR(yellow red) and Y(yellow) followed. In the Song, YR was highest, Y and R followed and PB(purple blue) was increased, In the Yuan, R, YR, PB, B were concentrated at low rates, and other colors were increased, In the Ming, Y, R and B were concentrated at low rates orderly, and other colors were increased, In the Qing, PB was highest and Y, R, YR, B, P(purple) were increased. Secondly, tons distribution of 5 dynasties were different. In the Tang, L(light) was highest, P(pale) and Lgr(light grayish) followed. In the Song, P(pale) was highest, Lgr, Gr(grayish) and Dl(dull) followed In the Yuan, Dp(deep) was highest, P and Lgr followed, and other tones were increased, In the Ming, S(strong) was highest, DI and V(vivid) followed. Thirdly, The general colors of 5 dynasty were R, YR, Y, B, PB colors with vivid, deep and light tones. Forth, the viewpoint of color on Chinese traditional costume was based on the Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. Based on results of this study, the successive researches will be carried out about the unique colors of each nation and application traditional colors to modern fashion industry in order to the unique cultural sense.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.62-70
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking Five-elements color found in Korean civilian's costume culture. The scope of Korean basic culture was 32 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset in the side of religion and art for the majority of the Korean people. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. The result of this investigation was that Red was yellowish red and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area. Blue was purplish blue and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area, similarly Red. Yellow was pure yellow and high chromatic and bright tone within 3area. Red and Blue in Korean basic culture were more primary color and more high brightness than Korean traditional colors. Religion and art fer Korean civilian revealing the Korean basic culture reflected impending real-life of Korean civilian who intend to overcome their desperate reality at using Five-elements color in their costume.