• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.172-187
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• 2014

The purpose of this paper is to examine how the 'tradition' has been identified and used concretely on the protection system of cultural property. Firstly, this paper investigated the historical process and aspects that the 'cultural property' and the 'tradition' combined, each had different meaning at the beginning. And it investigated the linkage of them which effect to the protection system and to each other on the system operated. Then, it pointed out a rift within the discourse of tradition to which the system have held on, and the problems as its result. This paper applied the viewpoint of anti-essentialism that the tradition is presented with hegemonic act to raise the inevitable continuity with the past, instead of the common notion that the tradition is 'everything that is handed down from the past.' Because the cultural property is the product of the state system, to pursne the linkage of it and the tradition is identical to examine how the tradition have been officially defined in the national hegemony. Since the 1920s the tradition has defined as a fixed, essential, pure reality in the changing process of the protection system of cultural property. This essentialist viewpoint about the tradition have been continued as the institutional premise regardless of many critics, raised by studies focusing on the culture and cultural property. But we see now a rift on the discourse of tradition as the intellectual discourse has been supported to the system, that is caused by the fast-changing global economic environment and a rat race around the registration of intangible cultural heritage of UNESCO.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.53-61
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• 2005

With the acceptance of western culture, our traditional culture is in the crisis of disappearing. This is especially evident in the clothing and textile field. Therefore it seems essential to apply the traditional Korean aesthetics to our clothing. The purpose of this study is to reconstruct the types of design and analyse the characteristics of patterns expressed in traditional roof-tile. This study attempted to use the roof-tile patterns as motive for all tapestry and fashion design work to realize a creative expression of formative world through on-screen restructuring. The traditional roof-tile patterns were selected for this study because they must be the products created with our ordinary aesthetic values and techniques, and thus may represent our people's unique culture. After all, the expression for a work should be based not on simple representations of a given object but on restructuring of diverse unique forms according to worker's subjective senses. A piece of clothing with the expression of traditional and formative must combine traditional aesthetics of tradition and form. The application of traditional and formative value of Korean pattern in clothing made to be adaptable for wear in our everyday lives. Today there various attempts to combine traditional aesthetics with modem design. Also, the development of unique Korean design aesthetics within the clothing will allow for a distinct elegance that can be recognized by the world know about the Korean culture through the high standards of our clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.300-313
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• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.17-27
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• 2007

The goal of the study was to research how the japanese fashion effects on the japanese fashion's current. This study was processed by the 'wabi', 'sabi', 'tsu', and 'iki' which were the foundation and core of the japanese traditional culture. This study also investigated the japanese style to help the recognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods. The review of related literature is presented under the following headings : (a) japanese culture, (b) japanese beauty, (c) japanese style, (d) japanese fashion designer. Conclusively, Japan complete unique design of world by on the basis of own tradition and beauty of japan which were revealed on the their common daily life. So To help there cognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods, fashion designer of the world must research the meaning of the trend and motive power of the world fashion, base on the cultural back ground of their country. And for this, the grounding educational curriculums for fashion designer include the process which can promote awareness of their country's culture, tradition, and beauty.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to explicate the contemporary concept of the term 'sportswear' by studying the history of sportswear tradition in America where sportswear was first established and developed. American sportswear originated from some functional clothes made for specific sports during the 19th century. Early in 20th century, there occurred many significant events in America while Americans were undergoing two successive world wars. First of all, due to the wars, women's role in labor force became so significant that their social status was enhanced remarkably. With economy growing every decade, the amount of leisure time for American people substantially increased and, therefore they could develop their leisure activity culture. All these changes made Americans demand the need for comfortable and functional clothes suitable for their changed way of life. In response to this demand, the sportswear tradition became mature due to the contribution by many creative All-American designers, most of whom have made their active contributions since 1970s. Now the sportswear, which used to be designed for specific sports, developed into casual wear in general with its extended definition. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for specific sports. Sportswear has now become more like a casual activity wear which all classes of people can enjoy in their life. Since the concept and scope of sportswear is extended to a great degree today, we need a new professional term to correctly express the extended nature of these contemporary clothes.

• Journal of Sasang Constitutional Medicine
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.75-91
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• 1996

Culture is way of life. And a culture is based on the view of nature and humun being. Korea has many kinds of tradition. Out of them, Korean character Hangul, food and medicine have been succeeded as they were in old days. So I tried to induce Korean view of nature and human being from those traditions. The common principle induced from them is Yin-yang and five elements. Yin-yang and five elements is away to cognize nature by Korean people. That means Yin-yang is thought to be the principle of nature. Nature is what life is born or produced. And mankind is a part of nature. Thus Yin-yang and five elements works on mankind in the same way as they do on nature. Mankind is born and grows on the earth. So human body consists of four, parts of the earth, which are light, air, water and soil. It is essential for human being to maintain balance and harmony in nature with nature and as nature.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.315-333
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to find out how the aesthetic values and characters of the Avant-garde fashion through semantics analysis of Avant-garde experiments in the early 20th century. Inner expressions of Avant-garde fashion in future dynamism, alien-hostile, and surreal-experimentalism are as followings (1) Reject tradition of existing fashion concept, (2) Dismantle costume material and inter-text characteristics in fashion field, (3) Laugh at material civilization and elite fashion, (4) Pursue primitive and fundamental sensibility on non-civilized world (5) Express human estrangement due to material civilization, (6) Remove the barrier of fashion between luxury and cheap ones, (7) Time, space and purpose is mixed, (8) Open concept as space structure independent of human body, (9) Complicatedness, ambiguity and expression of irregularity as changeableness, (10) Dismantle concept of beauty and ugliness. As you see, fashion design in modern Avan-garde is pursuing newness as beauty of open concept, rejecting all modern tradition and allowing extremity such as experimental, illogic, unreasonable and non-formatted expressions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.755-765
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.18 no.12
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• pp.421-431
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the trends of 'traditional' terminology in Korea. We focus on an empirical investigation of how media reports are conveying 'tradition' terminology in our society by applying text mining and social network analysis techniques. The analysis covered 2,481,143 news articles related to 'tradition' terminology that appeared in the media since the 1920's. In this research, frequency analysis, association analysis and social network analysis were used on articles related to 'tradition' terminology from 1920 to 2017 by decade. By applying these data science techniques, we can grasp the meaning of social culture phenomenon related 'tradition' with objective and value-neutral position and understand the social symbolism which contains the tradition of the times.