• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.491-503
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern that is suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls, who are beginning to show gender differences in body shape. Four age groups of two years each were considered for girls 7 to 14 years old. The mean and standard deviation of body measurements were calculated for each age group to analyze body shape variation, and hence the body characteristics of upper grade elementary school girls were identified. The high-frequency measurements of stature-waist circumference and waist circumference-hip circumference combinations were analyzed. In order to determine the size of each part of the jeans pattern and derive the drafting formula, the pattern sizes of brand A jeans, which had received a high score in the evaluation for ready-to-wear jeans(Kim & Lee, 2020), were used as the base criteria. In addition, the body sizes observed and calculated in the study were applied. Additionally, the requirements for better fit of ready-to-wear jeans, found in the survey on jeans wearing conditions and size dissatisfaction(Kim & Lee, 2019), were taken into consideration. Based on this research, a model set of jeans was prepared with the pattern developed and its fit evaluation was conducted. Thus, a slim-fit jeans pattern suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls was finalized. The pattern proposed in this study has excellent appearance and motion functionality, and is expected to contribute to reduce the fit dissatisfaction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.556-568
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• 2018

In this study, we surveyed the current status and sizing system of the custom dress shirts sold through online shopping, compared with the sizing system of the ready-made dress shirts. We tried to collect the information needed to make the well fitted dress shirts for middle-aged men from this study. The 17 online custom dress shirt brands were selected and the sales type, sales price, design options and size options of each brand were analyzed. The sizing systems of online custom dress shirt brands were compared with the sizing system of the 10 ready made dress shirt brands. The result showed that online custom dress shirts brands offered a variety of design options and size options to meet the consumers' individuality, taste and demand for good fit. In the ready-made brands, all 10 brands were using the same size notation system. In the same size designation, the difference in product size among the ready-made brands showed a tendency to be smaller than the online custom brands. The online custom brands had the different size notation system among brands. The size notation, the number of size designation and the size interval were different for each brand. Also, in the online custom brands, the product size among brands differed from each other in the same size designation. Therefore, the standardized size information and sizing system for middle-aged men that could be used as criteria when making the product size and pattern design in online custom brands were needed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.197-206
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to confirm the optimal spinning conditions for PLA (Polylactic acid) as a fiber forming polymer. According to the melt spinning test results of PLA, the optimal spinning temperature was 258℃. However, it needs to note that relatively high pack pressure was required for spinning at 258℃. At an elevated temperature, 262℃, mono filament was broken easily due to hydrolysis of PLA at a higher temperature. In case of fiber strength, it was confirmed that the draw ratios of 2.7 to 3.3 were optimal for maximum strength of melt spun PLA. Above the draw ratio, 3.3, the strength of the PLA fibers was lowered. It was presumed that cleavage of the PLA polymer chain over maximum elongation. The heat setting temperature of GR (Godet roller) showed that the maximum strength of the PLA fibers was revealed around 100℃. The degree of crystallinity and the strength of the PLA fibers were decreased above 100℃. The optimal take-up speed (Spinning speed) was around 4,000m/min. Thermal analysis of PLA showed 170℃ and 57℃ as Tm (melting temperature) and Tg (glass transition temperature), respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.52-63
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• 2010

The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.773-786
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• 2017

The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.82-90
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• 2009

This research was made to manufacture the fabric for interior uses by spinning a low melting mono 4 denier PET staple fiber with a soluble 1.4 denier fine PET fiber. The blended yarn has a thickness ranging from 10's to 14's, and the soluble PET fine fiber was dissolved to make a pore in the polymer. Thereby a snap property was decreased and a resilience property was improved to be suitable for a functional synthetic leather. In order to attain the optimum condition, a mechanical property according to fineness, and mixing ratio of low melting polymer, warp density, weft density and blending ratio, and a heat contraction ratio according to blending ratio were experimented. The warp density, 220 T/inch of fine denier PET and the weft density, 64 T/inch of thick denier PET were generated to 4/4 both twill weave fabric having constant tensile property and thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.100-108
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• 2012

Traffic police officers are faced with many dangerous accidents due to outside duties on roads. Yet, researches on traffic officers' uniforms have mainly been focused on design aspects rather than functional aspects. This study therefore aims to figure out traffic officers' perceived needs for their uniforms and to offer some basic guidelines in manufacturing versatile safety vests for wearers. The study used a documentary survey replied by 236 traffic officers. The results of the study are as follows: 1. There are 10 different types of vests currently used by traffic officers. Vests are employed for purposes such as carrying police equipments, enabling officers to be noticeable in dark, protecting the body, etc. 2. Officers wear these vests which were officially designated by law. Among them, fluorescence versatile safety vests were most frequently worn by officers. 3. Officers who wore ready-made vests of which size was already determined, tended to perceive that the vests were relatively larger than their own size. 4. In terms of the functions of the vests, officers expressed needs for the improvement of the LED and retro-reflection tape along with the addition of thermal function to existing vests. The improvement of the form and functions of versatile safety vests which reflect needs of the users will boost the dignity and the sense of duty of the traffic police officers.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.280-287
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• 2021

Generating electricity by using water in many energy harvesting system is due to their simplicity, sustainability and eco-friendliness. Evaporation-driven moist-electric generators (EMEGs) are an emergent technology and show great potential for harvesting clean energy. In this study, we report a transpiration driven electro kinetic power generator (TEPG) that utilize capillary flow of water in an asymmetrically wetted cotton fabric coated with carbon black. When water droplets encounter this textile EMEG, the water flows spontaneously under capillary action without requiring an external power supply. First carbon black sonicated and dispersed well in three different solvent system such as dimethylformamide (DMF), sodiumdedecylbenzenesulfonate (SDBS-anionic surfactant) and cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide (CTAB-cationic surfactant). A knitted cotton/PET fabric was coated with carbon black by conventional pad method. Cotton/PET fabrics were immersed and stuttered well in these three different systems and then transferred to an autoclave at 120 ℃ for 15 minutes. Cotton/PET fabric treated with carbon black dispersed in DMF solvent generated maximum current up to 5 µA on a small piece of sample (2 µL/min of water can induce constant electric output for more than 286 hours). This study is high value for designing of electric generator to harvest clean energy constantly.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.165-174
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• 2011

Recent years have witnessed that IT-convergence technology has become the most important issue in the global market. Along with this trend, demand for PSS(i.e., Product-Service Systems) design has been rapidly increased in the smart clothing market. A case of the PSS design research, this study aimed to identify optimum conditions for weaving of POF-based flexible textile display(abbreviated as "PFTD") for mountaineer wear with safe-guard function regarding luminescent properties. Based on the findings regarding the optimum weaving condition of PFTD, several designs of mountaineer wear were suggested in this study. A total of 15 PFTD samples were prepared under various weaving conditions of weave structures and density of POF, and the luminance values of each sample were measured. As the results, the types of PFTD with structures and density of 'satin 3:1', 'satin 2:1', 'twill 3:1' and 'twill 2:1' indicated relatively higher luminescence. And based on the results and recent sports fashion trends, two suited mountaineering wears applying PFTD were illustrated in this study.