• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.525-536
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating middle aged womens body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. In this study, styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket(flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncans multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows: 1) The classic style suits-middle aged womans body construct looks better when she is wearing it with the combination of suit details; opened tailored collar jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket, opened stand collar jacket with non-pocket, closed soutien collar and round neckline jacket with non-pocket, closed V-neckline jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket on slacks. 2) The middle aged woman wearing slacks looks smaller in upper body, longer in lower part of her body and taller as a whole than when wearing a skirt suit. And Opened jacket makes a middle aged woman be seen with less appeared abdomen than that on closed jacket. The stand calar and round neckline jacket with non-flap pockets makes her look smaller in upper body and hip. 3) With tailored, soutien, stand collar jacket, it looks slimmer in a neck, narrower in shoulder, smaller in upper body, and taller than on a round neckline and V-neckline jacket.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.485-500
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.813-824
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• 2007

This study purposed to analyze the preference suit design of spring and summer for elderly women who become weak in physical, physiological and psychological aspects. Accordingly, a questionnaire survey was conducted to analyze clothes elderly women prefer and present design. As a result, the following conclusions were obtained : First, The style of outfit that elderly women preferred when they went out was a tailored collar jacket and a straight slacks suit. On the assumption that they buy a jacket, however, they preferred a peter pan collar jacket, while they did not like a tailored collar jacket. Second, They liked light and bright pink and yellow colors as color of clothes for spring season, but they preferred grey color most in buying suit actually. For autumn season, they preferred beige, brown or grey colors most. With regard to materials for suit, they liked wool solid fabrics with stretch. As for a blouse, they preferred a single color most. There were significant difference between preference suit design and Assumption of buying suit design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.133-152
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data to assist students and designers in the fashion industry by examining the trend of designing women's wear using the SCAMPER method. In the research, five SCAMPER methods for fashion design were classified based on the previous studies. From 2018 S/S to 2022 F/W, data from 3,512 photographs were collected and checked for overlapping and were then classified by SCAMPER method. Data analysis was performed using SPSS 26 for frequency analysis. As a result, the most common application of the SCAMPER method was in 2022. First, the most used SCAMPER method for design was the "modify" method, changing details into various forms. The second method was the "adapt" method in which parts of the design or details were added and connected. The third mehtod was the "magnify" method of enlarging the length of the jacket. The fourth method was the "eliminate" method, removing parts of the jacket bodice, collar, or sleeves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1376-1386
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate how one's visual evaluations are affected by variations in internal designs of tailored jackets. Major findings are: 1. Of the 35 pairs of adjectives, the factor analysis singled out the following five major factors (total variance of 55.62%): elegance, maturity, neatness, hard/softness, and evaluation. 2. The image of tailored jackets were found to be significantly affected by the length of its collar: jackets with long collar were perceived elegant, graceful, neat, mature and slim. 3. The number of buttons was also found to have significant impact on the image of tailored jackets: A one-button jacket, single or double, was perceived graceful, mature, formal, neat, natural, brisk, slim and so on. Its image deteriorated as the number of buttons increased. 4. Single jackets were found to be significantly different from Double jacket in their images. The former were perceived elegant, neat, and natural.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.310-319
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• 2006

This study intended to compare and analyze marking efficiencies of tailored jacket based on different cloth and production conditions, 'the width of cloth', 'the number of marking pieces' and 'the direction for marking deployment'. The results were as follows. For the two pieces of markers, the efficiency of the cloth width of 110cm was higher than that of 150cm. As the number of markers increased, the efficiency of cloth width of 150cm was higher than that of 110cm. In the case of one-directional deployment, the results obtained was that the efficiency of two markers was higher than that of three markers, while, in the case of bi-directional deployment, the efficiency of three markers was higher than that of two markers. In the case of one-directional deployment for each size, the marking efficiencies were higher in two markers at the cloth width of 110 cm and higher in three markers at the cloth width of 150 cm. Then, in marking efficiencies according to the direction for marking deployment, bi-direction marker was the most efficient marker, followed by one-direction for each size marker and one-direction marker.