• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.955-965
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• 2008

This study used the method that measure the participants' responds on the experiment, and the measurement means is a survey. The primary factor plan is $5{\times}2{\times}3{\times}2$. The independent variable are neckline(5), trousers or skirt style(2), somatotype(3), culture(2), and the dependant variables are physical visual effect and the favor of clothe design. In cases of Korean, thin somatotype had better were V-neckline suit for looking shoulders wide because they have too narrow shoulders, and were pants suit than skirt suit for looking pelvis major. thin somatotype person who wants to look tall should wear china collar or tailored collar suit with pants. If she wears round neckline suit with skirt, the lower part of body and the height look tall. Pants suit with V neckline and skirt suit with china collar make standard somatotype looked having wide shoulders. Standard somatotype person with wide shoulder should avoid this style. The size of waist and pelvis was looked thick in round neckline and was looked thin in V neckline. So it will be better to find the right suit for one's weakness. Obesity had better wear V neckline to look neck slim and not wear stand and tailored collar. When obesity person wears pants suit, she is looked having slim waist than skirt suit. In case of American, thin somatotype in pants suit looks much taller than in skirt suit when she wears round neckline and stand collar suit. Standard somatotype has no difference because it is the basic shapes. Generally, it goes with all kinds of suit design. The belly and pelvis of American's obesity look fatter and bigger than Korean's obesity. The same with Korean, round neckline suit makes obesity looked belly and pelvis fat and big.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.91-92
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• 2005

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.340-358
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes "Daeraebok" and "Soraebok" of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double-breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.211-217
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket focused on the variation of the length according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with the body of middle-aged women. For this study, twenty seven different types of tailored jacket were designed with some variation of their silhouette, the length and the collar's figure on three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type of middle-aged women. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful, and active, soft and preferred the style, and the women of the body type II and III, them of the middle length. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the short length were more attractive, graceful, active, soft and preferred the style. Also there was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with their face size, they thought tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with the girth of the hip, they evaluated the short/long tailored jackets were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with their height they valued the long tailored jacket was more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.933-945
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• 1997

The purpose of the study was to investigate types of uniforms which were considered as appropriate, functional, and/or power look. Also, the possibility of acceptance of a pantsuit for uniforms was examined. For the study, a questionnaire was developed by the researcher. The subjects were asked to select appropriate, function Al, or power look among combinations of: 1) two types of jackets with different shoulder width (natural, wide) and two types bottoms(pants, skirt) : 2) blouses with three different collars (ribbon, convertible, tailored) and two types of bottoms (pants, skirt) . The majority (89%) of subjects were 185 male and 182 female white-collar workers. For the ststistical analysis, Chi-square, one-way ANOVA, and t-test were used. The results of the study were: 1) For a uniform, a skirted suit was considered as being appropriate and powerful, and pants were regarded as being functional. 2) A jacket with natural shoulders was viewed as an appropriate and functional uniform, and a jacket with wide shoulders as power look. 3) A blouse with a convertible collar was regarded as an appropriate and functioal uniform, and a tailored collared-blouse evaluated as power look.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.726-740
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating the classic style suits-middle aged women's body construct for their more attractive fashion styles. The styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines, etc.), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket (flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. A middle aged woman on skirts suits look more graceful, more elegant, and a bit more refined than that on slacks suits. 2. A middle aged woman wearing a jacket with flap pockets on looks more balanced, and graceful than when wearing with no pockets. 3. Wearing closed jackets looks more balanced and graceful than on opened jackets. 4. The types of collar·necklines can be called the details which put much influence on Image effects. Putting on tailored collar suits is the most graceful, refined, balanced and harmonious case than any others.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.940-951
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• 2012

This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.60-75
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• 2016

This research was conducted to understand the different circumstances for wearing shirts by adult males aged 20-39, and to provide this basic information to the shirt industry prior to developing new functional men's shirts. A total of 345 respondents participated in the survey. Most of questionnaire, frequency, mean and standard deviation were calculated and the differences between the 20s and 30s were analyzed by t-test or ${\chi}^2$ test. The results of the survey are as follows. Grading the satisfaction degree of their body parts, the respondents were relatively unsatisfied with their height, weight, and waist, abdominal and hip circumferences. Majority preferred department stores, discount stores and outlets for purchasing shirts. Many have never owned tailored shirts - men in 20's had less experience with tailoring than men in 30's. The foremost selection criterion for purchasing shirts was fit -during purchase, men in their 20's considered fit more important than men in their 30's. The most preferred unbuttoning of the top button when wearing shirts. For favored collar shapes with one button unbuttoned, the most valued collar angle and style was V-neck shape when unbuttoned, low collar band, collar with unopened collar, and stiff collars. Most shirt designs and details included slim fit, no dart in the front and one dart on the back. Men in 20's more preferred the no dart in the front and one tuck on the back, as compared to men in 30's. On the other hand, men in their 30's preferred one dart shirts than men in 20's. Regarding shirt bands and cuffs, one button and regular collar and one button cuffs with round angle design, were the most preferred, respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.133-152
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data to assist students and designers in the fashion industry by examining the trend of designing women's wear using the SCAMPER method. In the research, five SCAMPER methods for fashion design were classified based on the previous studies. From 2018 S/S to 2022 F/W, data from 3,512 photographs were collected and checked for overlapping and were then classified by SCAMPER method. Data analysis was performed using SPSS 26 for frequency analysis. As a result, the most common application of the SCAMPER method was in 2022. First, the most used SCAMPER method for design was the "modify" method, changing details into various forms. The second method was the "adapt" method in which parts of the design or details were added and connected. The third mehtod was the "magnify" method of enlarging the length of the jacket. The fourth method was the "eliminate" method, removing parts of the jacket bodice, collar, or sleeves.