• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.191-206
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• 2016

A designer representing an avant guard fashion, Martin Margiela introduces experimental collections that seek ideational and ideal values, breaking away from limits of popular universality or usefulness of fashion. This study seeks to interpret Martin Margiela's design characteristics from the perspective of ambiguity, and thereby examine theoretical basis of meaning interpretation of his ambiguous and innovative design. In poetic meaning ambiguity is verbal nuance which gives room for alternative reaction the same piece of language. By way of study methods, concepts and characteristics of ambiguity were examined based on William Empson's seven types of ambiguity, and characteristics of Martin Margiela's fashion design were analyzed from the perspective of ambiguity. In the study, expression of ambiguity in Martin Margiela's fashion design was categorized into ambiguity of forms, that of meanings, and that of existence. Ambiguity of forms could be found indeterminate form of clothes and flat clothes. Ambiguity of meaning refers to ambiguity arising from the possibility of the meaning that fashion design is going to convey diverse interpretation. Ambiguity of meaning could be found up-cycling vintage clothes, semi-couture, signs of time, unfitting size, and symbolic letter. Ambiguity of existence could be found inanimate dummy, face shrouded with a veil and expression of multiple identity. In Martin Margiela's fashion design ambiguity gives rise to joy of something fresh, amusement felt about what deviates from normality and the possibility of fashion design's endless creations.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.16 no.8
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• pp.601-610
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• 2016

The 21st century is as an age of culture, and cultural goods presenting the cultural spirit of one nation should reflect the tradition, culture, and techniques of that nation. The twelve horary signs of the gods are the creatures of our nation's native religion and thought have existed from the unified Silla period to today. Therefore, many things belong to the category of cultural goods, but in this study the guidelines for the design of cultural goods are limited to the characters of the twelve horary signs. For this study concept and classification of cultural goods, Korean traditional formative special qualities, concepts and composite elements, symbolic meanings and special qualities, personifications, and unique images of twelve horary signs of are researched. According to the results of the research guidelines for the design of cultural goods, images of cultural goods, classifications applying to each subject, the formative special qualities of Korean traditions, personifications, and concepts on the development of cultural goods are presented..

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.94-108
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• 2011

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.51-55
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• 2007

These days, hair design is recognized as a kind of molding arts which peform expression skill to create personal self as well as practical skill. Recently, the efforts to express hair design sublimating it to art works have continued. For these reasons, this study had purposes as follows; First, it developed creative and original design producing works to shape the flower image that was an important material of hair design. Second, it presented the possibility to express the field of hair design with art. In the flow of age, nature has provided design with unlimited creative motive. Flowers, among various materials, show the nature's change, combination and order and impose diverse symbolic meanings. Therefore, flowers are good materials to express the works. Through the process of decolorizing and dyeing with hair, five works of nature's fragrance, hope, reed flowers, windflower, magnolia blossom had been produced. The results of the process were as follows; First, the transformation of shape through the simple process taking the image of shaping flower as subject matter could be a motive of new hair design art. Second, if the various images of flowers were expressed as hair art with three-dimensional shape, it could be works with value of beauty. Through the process of this study, it was proved that nature could be endless subject matter for art. Therefore, with continuous studies, it can be motive of developing designs in producing work activities of many hair designers. In addition, academic development will be achieved through wide and diverse studies.

• Archives of design research
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• no.18
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• pp.153-162
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• 1996

underground space have many negative environmental clements which should be confirmed on location and line of action by the artificial signs. iccordingly, environmental graphics as visual language for popular signification-function have to be studied on sign theory of symbolic meanings. Ho\/ever, its usage has not only decorated by microscopiC appreciative eye but also lost its meanlllg as a visual language which was caused by the negligence of systematic management of the facility in charge Result of study, Visual environmental factors as a cause of behavioral attitude based on the study, which has been carefully considered as a communication of the visual language. Therefore, considering the underground environmental graphics as the: sign or the signification-function, It has to be studied on syntactic, semantic and pragmatic viewpoint. SpeCifically, to maKe the color and formation language a signification-function as a generalized connotation to the public, a distinctive classified Visual language must be applied.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.71-84
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• 2000

In this study, design characteristics of Village Parks in Seoul are investigated through an analysis of structuring themes expressed in spatial design. The goals and objectives of this study are: to emphasize the significance of design themes; and to demonstrate an approach to the design of landscapes through an analysis of structuring themes. For conducting this study, geometric forms and naturalistic forms were examined first. That is, the following 15 structuring themes were examined, as guiding themes: the 90$^{\circ}$rectangular theme; the 45$^{\circ}$/90$^{\circ}$angular theme; the 30$^{\circ}$/60$^{\circ}$ angular theme; circles on circle; concentric circles and radii; arcs and tangents; circle segments; the ellipse; the spiral; the meander; the free ellipse and scallops; the free spiral; the irregular polygon; the organic edge; and clustering and fragmentation. Forty five Village Parks in Seoul, built between 1996 and 1997, were analyzed through these 15 structuring themes. An analysis of Village Parks was conducted by the following two categories: land shape and structuring themes; and design directions and structuring themes. The research results are as follows; 1) Geometric forms are more frequently applied than naturalistic forms. 2) Regardless of land shape, geometric forms derived from simple primary shapes, the square and the circle, are frequently used. And the meander and the irregular polygon among naturalistic forms are frequently used. 3) Regarding design directions and structuring themes, design concepts, symbolic meanings and spatial forms are, to some degree, integrated. 4) The spiral is not applied among geometric forms. And the meander and the irregular polygon, as naturalistic forms, are frequently utilized. Research findings obtained from this study could be used in the designing of future Village Parks. For a profound study, future, research is needed in two-dimensional plans and three-dimensional elements of Village Parks.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.867-877
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• 2009

These days, the fantastic in opposition to classic beauty becomes a genre of creative body expression. The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of body types and meanings in recent fantastic fashion illustration. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In literatures, pictures and movies, the category of the fantastic body's expressive types were classified as dominant mutant based on SF, multi body or fragment body by disruption, heterogeneous compound based on myth, personified humanoid and non substance in supernatural boundary. The dominant mutant based on SF was expressed image morphing, composition of machine image with body and modern metamorphosis of classic SF body. It means propensity to post-feminism and reservation of meaning analysis based on human unconsciousness. The multi body or fragment body by disruption in fashion illustration was expressed distorted composition of same body pictures, replacement of different bodies, deconstruction and partial omission of body and composition of meaning or non meaning images. It means permanence of self and basic narcissism. The heterogeneous compound based on myth was expressed general composition or optical illusion of various and aggressive animal motive. It means reinterpretation of original myth, metaphor of basic femme fatale, pursuit of permanence and sign of primitive mind in unconsciousness. The personified humanoid was expressed real human body description of mannequin or ball joint doll and anthropomorphism of robot image. It means representative satisfaction and nostalgia of childhood. The non substance in supernatural boundary was expressed grotesque description of ghost, zombie, vampire, angel, fairy, using of symbolic red, black color and non body. It means human's basic desire about immortality and taboo. Through the result of these study, the expression of fantastic body in fashion illustration will expend expressive method and we will understand human and cultural codes of today.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.99-108
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• 2001

The Charm is composed of various kind of ancient signs, letters and systematic characters so that they delivers messages with many expressions. They, compared with the experimental typography, are more logical and experimental than we generally think. Also, they have meanings and attributes as characters do, in which there are symbols, hieroglyphs, pictures and other similar words. Each attribute diverse from symbolic meaning, associates to deconstruction of letters. It is needed to review the experimental attributes of charms with the view of structural typography for potentialities of expression. The purpose of the study is to analyze and classify the morphologic construction of charms so that we can find the possibilities of applying the attributes to visual languages and typography. Future study seems to be extending the area of expressing of typography fit for our own culture, not for Western

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.30-44
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• 2020

Bootleg fashion emerged from the fashion industry after 2010, and has been used across a range of different genres. However, it has yet to be theoretically established; therefore, this study will explain bootleg fashion as a new genre, which will help in the planning and designing of products within domestic fashion brands. The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion as a recently emerged fashion phenomenon that borrows from other brands without permission. The research methodology included a theoretical literature review of fashion sites and related materials and empirical research using case analysis. Results of the analysis of both characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion suggest the following characteristics: "unauthorized use of symbolic elements," "disorganization of boundaries between fashion," "multiplicity through globalization," and "newness through deconstruction and recombination." Internal meanings derived from the analysis were "parody through symbol," which is seen as "a parody and homage resulting from the unauthorized use of a brand," while "decomposition through disorganization" is seen as a break-up of the boundaries between different fashions from a mainstream-oriented perspective. A juxtaposition of elements was demonstrated by "playfulness through transformation," which showed that such fashion cannot coexist with positional transposition. Finally, "spread as a cultural phenomenon" was derived through the diffusion through digital media with DIY culture. As such, bootleg fashion has been reborn as an innovative fashion genre, breaking the taboo of the illegitimate from the past and demonstrating new endeavors.