The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.21
no.1
/
pp.119-128
/
1997
The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.33
no.7
/
pp.1140-1151
/
2009
This study researches the formative character of 1920's fashion through cinema costumes from the perspective of the theories of W$\"{o}$lfilin and Delong. This study organizes a new perspective such as closed form & open form, part recognition & whole recognition, and flat & rounded to analyze the characteristics of form in the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby', 'Chariots of Fire', and 'Chicago'. The 1920's style in the fashion history is a closed form and flat because of simplicity and functionality. The costumes in Chariots of Fire' that focuses on the reappearance of 1920's fashion is a flat and closed form. However, the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby' that presents a symbolic meaning and 'Chicago' that expresses a splendid look are an open and rounded form. Evening dresses are open, with whole recognition and a rounded form because of sheer fabrics, beading, uneven hemlines, and lighting. Daytime dresses are a closed form and flat because of heavyweight fabrics, dark or achromatic colors and non-patterns. Also, open form and rounded, closed form and flat have a similar distribution in diagrams. When the viewer recognizes the form of clothes, they react in a similar way to two-dimensional and three-dimensional presentations that shows that the form of clothes is recognized by the relation with the body. In addition, this study researches the connection between diverse elements such as clothes, body, movements, space, and external elements such as lighting.
Character industry which introduces marketing techniques into cultural level and recreational tendency owned by man and which develops them to industrial aspects is not simple sale of goods, but knowledge-intensive industry which asks consumers intangible symbolic elements. In other words, it is a field of soft business which concretizes and maximizes ideas, goods and services which can satisfy pleasure and recreational tendency internal to human mind. For Korean character industry, forms or expressions proper to character not only have weak character, meaning or values as goods from the stage at which they are developed, but the absence of strategies about media by which to develop these or integrative character marketing strategies and tactics makes a ripple effect of character or strategies of merchandising it relatively inferior compared to the advanced countries in character such as the United States, Japan, England and so on. 1 want to contribute to developing Korean character industry to the levels of developed countries by applying the strategies and tactics of MPR, the strategic marketing method which worldwide famous enterprises or brands are positively utilizing in the condition of the lad(Eng study on character marketing with character as the subject, to character marketing strategies by which they can be grafted directly into fields of character business.
The purpose of this study is to examine the design characteristic of the facade of the main adminstration building in university. The main administration building which is a basic of educational facilities has various administration setups, such as the register's office, the student affairs section, the planing department, the general affair's office and so on. This building performs academic, administration, facilities management, and admissions service. Also, the building has an ideological, historical, and symbolic image, having an organic relationships with the other educational facilities. This study choose one hundred seven universities, except universities that does not provide information easily and the second campus which does not have the main administration building, as the subjects of the study. The analysis is derived from the design elements applied to facade design of the main administration building and this is divided into design principles(balance symmetry, contrast, rhythm), the formal composition(geometrical, linear), and the style of architecture(classical architecture and modern architecture). The results of the research are summarized as follows: The design characteristic of the facade of the main adminstration building in university has chronologically changed. First of all, in the 1940's, symmetry emphasized on the center of building, superimposition, division, pediment, and arch were marked. Then, superimposition was prominent in the 1950's and symmetry emphasized on the center of building was shown in the 1960s again. Flat roof was in the 1970's, 1990s and 2000's. Finally, pediment was dominant in the 1980's. The design elements of the main administration building can be samples of chronological styles of architecture. Facade design, with proper design of the past and recent times, includes the meaning that achieve the great purpose of the university by emphasizing visual images.
'Pattern' is the term that is frequently used in the aspects of history, society, and science. It always appears in the remains or relics of the age of civilization when recording was started, and its evaluation and value differ by time. Patterns in the ancient civilization were symbolic, social, and spatially crucial. However, after the modernization, they were considered to be immoral and unnecessary, so the range of their significance came to reduce. Due to the development of science, ornament patterns lost the limitation of its range of use along with new interpretation of them. Especially with the advent of new scientific theories such as the evolution theory from the biological aspect, quantum mechanics, and super string theory, morphological possibilities more than the human scale perceived by men came to be discovered. Living organisms maintain their lives through patterns, structures, and processes in order to produce a system alive. Among them, patterns are the organization of relations determining the characteristics of the system. The present patterns may correspond to this meaning. The pattern in a space is the matter of how to relate the components after all. In a space, however, there are numerous components mingled with one another. If these tasks are conducted as analogue work, it will take a lot of time and effort. However, if digital media are utilized to perform the tasks like analysis, generation, or fabrication, it will produce a result with higher precision and efficiency. In this sense, parametric modeling is quite useful media. Opening morphological variation, it realizes more possibilities, connects conveniently the relations between complex components composing a space, and helps produce creative patterns.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of Korean costume colors according to the diachronic stages of culture(Chosun dynasty, Modern times, Present age) and to interpretate the meanings of costume colors as a cultural code. To examine the color characteristics according to the cultural change, the quantitative analysis and the qualitative analysis were used. For the quantitative analysis 1535 color samples were collected and for the qualitative analysis on the sensitive aspect of Korean costume color, 340 color names were collected. The results of this study as follows; 1.'Red' and 'Blue' were preferred throughout the periods. In Chosun dynasty, the higher saturation of 'Red' and 'Blue', its symbolic meanings were more emphasized. 2. In the Modern times, 'Pink' was more distinctive than 'Red'. 'Pink' meant that the ecdysis of the traditional view of color. 3.'Yellow' of the low Saturation was used frequently in Chosun dynasty but in the Modern times, the use of 'Yellow' increased and the high saturation were used. In the Present age, the frequency of 'Yellow' was reduced relating to the increasing use of 'Brown'. 4.'Neutral Color' has changed according to the diachronic stages of the culture. 'Black' was increased and had a big meaning in the cultural aspect of the Modern times. In the Present age, 'Gray' and 'grayish colors' were increased related to Technology, Metals and High rise buildings.
With the increased quality of life, the meaning of houses is shifting from a functional space for the simple purpose of residing to a symbolic space representing life as personality. Starting with the advancement of IKEA into Korea last year, global brands are about to enter into Korea. As Korean brands are not certain about how to set their direction in the situation where global brands have rushed into the market, it was thought that a key to solve the problem could be found from the cases of the lifestyle stores of Japan, which is moving one step ahead of Korea. Considering the circumstances, the author limited the subjects of this study to the lifestyle stores that have already established their brand identity and have prominent expressional characteristics of interior design in Japan. Research and analysis were conducted through site inspection and books. As a study method, literature and previous research were reviewed to find the program characteristics of interactivity and participation, the spatial characteristics of accessibility and the expressional characteristics of symbolism, scene continuity and function complexity, as the basis for an analysis. The results of the analysis showed that Japanese lifestyle stores are appealing to consumers as the spaces with their own differentiated space composition and various programs, by establishing their unique concepts and explicit brand identity. It is expected that such expressional characteristics of interior design will be of help in defining the direction of interior design of Korean lifestyle stores in the future.
The cultural tendency based on sharing and cooperation, which has recently been a hot issue, accelerates throughout the world. This study began with a perception that a sharing culture is inherent in urban public spaces. This study aims to conduct a theoretical study of the sharing culture and to analyze the characteristics of the design composition of public spaces. This study selected squares in 16 European cities as cases for analysis. The results are summarized as follows:1)To analyze the design characteristics of public spaces in which a sharing culture is inherent, this study drew the shape and type of planes and sharing elements such as accessibility, symbolism and activity with the squares in the cases. 2)The shape of planes in the squares in the cases has been formed in close relations with the historic meaning and events of the area and the process of the construction of buildings surrounding the square. The squares in the cases were classified into seven plane types, and these squares have developmentally contributed to the formation of a sharing culture as a place for free participation and communication concerning social issues. 3)In the squares in the cases, the weight of road-centered access appears high, and in terms of the construction of human-friendly / environment-friendly infrastructure in the city or judging from the trend of the recent increase of pedestrian-centered plans for public space, it is judged that approaches with a high utilization rate of sidewalk or public transportation would be desirable. 4)Symbolic elements of the square become a device by which citizens can share the historic symbolism, along with artistic inspiration. In addition, by serving as an observatory from which people can take a view of the landscape of the city, it allows visual sharing of the entire city as well as the square. 5)A square is common pool resources in the community, and it is necessary to vitalize that in a direction of increasing the possibility of sharing, through the characteristics and methods of the composition of public design.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.21
no.2
/
pp.414-429
/
1997
This study aides at investigating the chang of habit in 'the Korean Catholic Womens's Religious Society' and analyzing its characteristics during the period from 1888 up to now. The research was carried out by investigating a wide range of documents including those on museums of religious society, and by considering the questionnaires and interviews on the present habit. The religious habit changed as a result of the social, cultural, and religious influence of period. The characteristics of their habit are analyzed in terms of four differnt periods as follow; (1) From the arrival of 'the Congregation of Sistersof 57 Paul de Chartres' to the year of Korean Endependence. (1888-1945) : The western style religious habit was introduced and settled later in korea by the members of forign religious society. The design of this religious halite might be originated from the mediaval times. (2) From the year of Korean Independence througt before the Vatican Council ll (1946 -1965) : Traditional habit style had been slowly modified. In this periord, ancient style coexisted with the reformed style. Also ordinary clothing style were observed in the religious society. (3) After the Vatican Council II(after 1965) : 'Decree on the up-to-date renewal of religious life'of the Vatican Council II affected strongly the traditional habile design. This led to a change from the ancient habit design to practical, modern and hygienic one. In addition, the habit was suited to the time and place as well as to the need of the apostolate. (4) Currently Situation(1996) : Mostly religious habit of korea is maintaining the style changed after the Vatican Council II. Present style is very simplyfied than the traditional one. But many religious societies make efforts for keeping the symbolic meaning of religious habit. All over the world, religious societies allowing ordinary clothes, but most korean women's religious societies still hold on religious habit.
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