• 지역과문화
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.79-105
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• 2019

In the Geumseongsan Tumulus of the Uiseong area where the Jomunguk was existed in the Three Han Period, many relics such as metal craft ornaments and Uiseong-style earthernware were excavated. However, it is hard to find cases where the excavated relics were used to develop cultural products. In this study, symbolic relics which can express the culture of Uiseong Jomunguk were selected from excavated relics. Then, the basic design that can be applied to various cultural products were derived from symbolic relics. In order to select symbolic relics, the formative characteristics of the metal craft relics excavated from the Tablili Tumulus and the Dali Tumulus were examined. As a result, a gilt-bronze crown excavated from the Tablili Tumulus was selected as a symbolic relics. And then the basic desin was derived from the gilt-bronze crown. The basic design is expressed in the form of birds based on the bird's feather shape at the edge of the standing ornaments and the record of the Bongdae(鳳臺), the phoenix's habitat. And the application design that changed the expression of the birds' face was presented. The earthenware excavated from the Uiseong area was designed as a soil pot and applied various indoor air purification plants. The result of this study, which reinterprets and reconstructs the historical and cultural resources of the region in accordance with the modern sense, can be used as useful data for the development of cultural products of Jomunguk. Furthermore, if the design derived from the Jomunguk relics is used as a representative symbol of the area, it will be possible to derive an image of a differentiated region from other regions. Finally, it is expected that the result of this study will be a chance to re-evaluate the value of the historical and cultural resources in the region.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.68-75
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• 2000

The purpose of this paper is to define the spatial scope and landscape structure of the capital city of Shilla Dynasty. We have tried to analyze the locational characteristics, the location and landscape form of the Yonggang-Dong pond site which was assumed a part of a king's place, and had the important implicitness in delineating the spatial scope of capital city of Shilla Dynasty. The research took the theory of landscape cognition as a tool, and processed with the book review related simultaneously. The results of study are as follows; 1) It has been almost conformed that the Yonggang-Dong Pond Site was a part of the North Palace of Shilla Dynasty, and it took the form of fully enclosed by the forest, such as the names of Imjungsu and Gosungsu, and so on. This fact has leaded to the special landscape form of 'Forest with Palace' that is an similar pattern of Forest with Tumulus, Forest having Well, Forest having Well, Forest having Mountain. Each of them is symbolizing the place of holiness in the Shilla Dynasty. 2) The Yonggang-Dong Pond site and its surrounding forests made them together be the north border of the Capital City of Shilla Dynasty. This fact made it possible to consider the form of landscape of the Najung Forest with Posugjung Pavilion as the same on which was on the southern border of the city. 3) The above mentioned facts lead to clues that the border of the capital city of Shilla Dynasty does mean that it was not the mere functional one, but symbolic one. Thus, this paper suggests that the spatial scope of the capital city of Shilla Dynasty should include not only the area of block system, but also the surrounding natural area of mountains, forests, and so on, including the artificial elements of palace and pavilion. 4) This type of borders with the natural elements show basically the different type and function. We could find out some examples from China's and Japan under the same block systems and in the same era. It should be more identifiable in the form and the meaning of landscape of the capital city of Silla Dynasty in ancient Korea.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.243-254
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• 2003

The aim of this study is to analyze the skylights and roof structures designed by Marie Botta from the viewpoint of the space, the form and the light source, and thus to find out their characteristics. For this purpose, his 13 major works were selected and analyzed according to the principle of design, which could explain the characteristics of skylight and roof structures sufficiently. Trough this study, the followings are realized. 1) The skylights are the main light source in the interiors of his buildings that are comparatively dark, being enclosed by thick materials such as bricks. The roof structures have been precisely designed to disperse the light effectively 2) The skylight and roof structures play the role of form-creating elements in his buildings. They create the unique images for the exteriors and endow form to the interiors. 3) The skylight also serves as a window to communicate with nature outside. Through the skylight, people in his buildings are able to perceive the flow of time and enjoy the scenery of the sky. 4) The light that showers through the skylight and adjusted by roof structures produces special atmosphere in his projects. In his interiors, people can experience a somewhat miraculous and sacred feeling with the light from above. 5) The skylight has meaning as a symbol. It symbolize the relationship between the earth and the sky. Also, in religious projects, a skylight provides a symbolic vision of Heaven for Christians. Comparing with recent works presented in our country, which emphasize simple interiors using artificial light, Botta's works suggest another form of design differentiated from the works of our designers in that Botta's works not only take advantage of natural light by using skylights and roof structures but also utilize them as form-creating elements.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.84-95
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• 2010

This study is an introductory survey of the labyrinth/maze in gardens. The term 'garden labyrinth' may seem an oxymoron given that the garden represents the terrestrial paradise, while the labyrinth is a symbol of the most chaotic face of the world. In etymological and ontological terms, however, gardens are enclosed places and this characteristic corresponds to the character of the labyrinth, which is the one of the oldest signs in human civilization, symbolizing the paths of human life filled with uncertainty and complexity. The garden labyrinth has developed in various forms and shapes since the Renaissance period. Literature and paintings contributed to the dissemination of the concepts of the garden labyrinth, especially in the form of the 'garden of love'. While the labyrinths in ancient and medieval times focused on plane shapes and symbolic and/or spiritual meanings, later garden labyrinths emphasized the three dimensional form and synesthetic pleasures. New patterns, which deviated from the classical unicursal form, emerged in the Petit Parc at Versailles in the 17th century. The garden labyrinth/maze was easy to adopt in formal gardens because of its geometric form, but for that reason, it went on to decline during the fad of picturesque garden. In this study, a brief history of labyrinths, the patterns, forms, and arrangement of the garden labyrinths in the formal gardens of the Renaissance and Baroque periods and its meanings are reviewed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.17-34
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• 2014

This is a theoretical and empirical study on Kasaya, the Buddhist monk's robe, which is one of the traditional Korean costumes that has kept it original form, as well as it being the most symbolic ritual costume in Buddhism. The purpose of the study is to see the different types of Kasaya, and the transitions it has gone through since Mid Joseon Dynasty. The analysis was performed after categorizing Kasaya in the following manner: layers, the way to wear, symbolism in construction, sewing, etc. Having a variety of Ilwolguangcheop(日月光貼) is a feature of Korean Red Kasaya. In the beginning, Its shape was very similar to shape of Hyungbae(胸背), and this was a royal gift and had the same meaning as an official uniform for a Buddhist monk. So designs of the Cheop(貼) could have been transformed from those of Hyungbae with a Buddhist twist. The conclusion of the study is as follows: Double layered Kasaya shows its transition from double layer to single layer. The fastening ornaments have been simplified in all materials from Yeongja(纓子). The latch type and three-paired Yeongja type transformed into hook type and one-paired Yeongja type. Color is the most common feature above all, and it is mainly in red. The form of Korean Kasaya has a significant relation with development of Buddhism. The integration of the Zen sect would have influenced the integration of Kasaya, which shows diversity throughout the period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.389-401
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• 2011

Jewelry is not only symbolic meaning of the fortune, but also it completes or redound to fashion style and its image in this modern times which diverse culture live together. The instinct for adornment which is long as human cultures is developed as Artwork genuinely to show effective self-expression that is aesthetic and distinguished. It would be from that it made by using metallic materials. In contemporary fashion, jewelry takes so much importance that it sets the trend. They carry a sensible message that expresses esthetic desire and originality. Among the so many kinds of jewelry, especially the necklace is located beneath the face and linked as a part of fashion, so it frequently has showed in Fashion Collection, We tend to study the effect of that the form, hue and character of materials of necklace that is expressed in fashion collection influence fashion image. The method of this study is comprised with precedent studies and analysis of necklace photos in fashion collection. For the analysis of data, we implement content analysis and statistical analysis using SPAW Statistics 18. As the result, fashion and jewelry effect interactively and share esthetic forms, in the view of total image necklace image is more strong than fashion image. Because the hue and the form of necklace take a great role to make fashion image with the sense of its eyesight, its effective coordination go up the delicate feelings of the fashion. So, it is very effective things that we predict the trend of fashion, then, coordinate with well-matched necklace.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.191-206
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• 2016

A designer representing an avant guard fashion, Martin Margiela introduces experimental collections that seek ideational and ideal values, breaking away from limits of popular universality or usefulness of fashion. This study seeks to interpret Martin Margiela's design characteristics from the perspective of ambiguity, and thereby examine theoretical basis of meaning interpretation of his ambiguous and innovative design. In poetic meaning ambiguity is verbal nuance which gives room for alternative reaction the same piece of language. By way of study methods, concepts and characteristics of ambiguity were examined based on William Empson's seven types of ambiguity, and characteristics of Martin Margiela's fashion design were analyzed from the perspective of ambiguity. In the study, expression of ambiguity in Martin Margiela's fashion design was categorized into ambiguity of forms, that of meanings, and that of existence. Ambiguity of forms could be found indeterminate form of clothes and flat clothes. Ambiguity of meaning refers to ambiguity arising from the possibility of the meaning that fashion design is going to convey diverse interpretation. Ambiguity of meaning could be found up-cycling vintage clothes, semi-couture, signs of time, unfitting size, and symbolic letter. Ambiguity of existence could be found inanimate dummy, face shrouded with a veil and expression of multiple identity. In Martin Margiela's fashion design ambiguity gives rise to joy of something fresh, amusement felt about what deviates from normality and the possibility of fashion design's endless creations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.204-220
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• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.94-108
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• 2011

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.