• Title/Summary/Keyword: Surf zone

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On-offshore Distribution of Longshore Current in the Surf Zone (쇄파후(碎波後) 발생(發生)하는 연안류(沿岸流)의 유속분포(流速分布)에 관한 연구(研究))

  • Kim, Kyoung Ho;Koo, Bong Kuen
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.6 no.4
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    • pp.11-19
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    • 1986
  • This study aims at the elucidation of the distribution of longshore currents after wave breaking. Longshore currents have relations to the beach process and dispersion of contaminants in the nearshore region, thus the understanding of its. mechanism is very important. In the present study, using the electromagnetic current meter, the water particle velocity is measured in the 3-dimensional wave field and Eulerian mean velocity is obtained. At the same time, from the dispersion of tracer, the Lagrangian mean velocity is also obtained. It is observed that the longshore currents were confined within the surf zone and the maximum value of them exists in the surf zone. The longshore currents were considered to be constant toward the depth and we obtained the similar distribution of longshore currents between the measured value and the theoretical ones by Longuet-Higgins model.

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Diel, Tidal and Seasonal Effects on the Distribution of Acartia omorii (Copepoda: Calanoida) in a Sandy-shore Surf Zone of Dolsan Island (돌산도 모래해안 쇄파대에 나타나는 요각류 Acartia omorii 분포에 미치는 주야$\cdot$조석$\cdot$계절효과)

  • PARK Eun-Ok;SUH Hae-Lip;SOH Ho Young
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • v.34 no.6
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    • pp.594-599
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    • 2001
  • In a sandy shore surf zone of Dolsan Island, diel, tidal and seasonal effects on abundance of Acartia omorii were investigated at three sites, the bottom and surface of 1 m depth and water's edge using a sledge-net. Of these sites, the abundance of A. omorii was the highest in the bottom. Seasonal abundance data showed that A. omorii was more abundant in winter than other seasons. During the study period, the abundance of A. omorii was always higher during ebb tide than flood, The distribution patterns of A. omorii were more influenced by tide than diel change, Strong current during spring tide possiblely affected the diel migration pattern, In winter A. omorii showed a diel vortical migration in neap tide, whereas it showed a reverse vortical diel migration in spring tide. Distribution centers were located at a layer of $50\~100\;cm$ below mean sea level (MSL) during neap tide, and then it moved slightly upward during spring tide.

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Field observation of sediment suspension in the surf zone (쇄파대의 저질부유에 관한 현지관측)

  • 신승호;율산서소
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.141-146
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    • 2003
  • Time seres of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1) The relationship between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

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Surface current measurements using lagrangian Drifters in Anmok (소형 표류부이를 이용한 안목해안 표층 연안류 관측)

  • Lim, Hak Soo;Kim, Mujong;Shim, Jae-Seol
    • Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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    • v.4 no.spc
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    • pp.245-253
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    • 2017
  • In this study, surface currents measured by small lagrangian GPS drifters (Aquadrifter) in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of nearshore surface current and wave-induced current to understand sediment transport mechanism near the crescentic bars in the surf-zone and near Kangneung breakwater and submerged breakwater in Anmok. The 8 times lagrangian drifter experiments were conducted mostly during in 2nd, 3rd, 4th intensive measurements in winter, summer, and spring seasons with long-term wave observation at the station W1. The analysed surface currents near the breakwaters in Anmok show that wave-induced currents at the middle of the submerged breakwater were separated and flowed toward the shoreline but offshore currents were dominant through the channels between the breakwaters. The longshore currents near the shoreline were flowed to the northwest (southeast) depending on the incoming waves from ENE (NNE). The surface nearshore offshore currents were generated mostly by waves and winds in case of high and low wave energy environments. Using the small-size lagrangian surface drifter experiments, we successfully measured longshore and offshore wave-induced currents in the surf-zone and near submerged breakwater close to Kangneung breakwater. The drifter experiment results show the availability of direct observation of nearshore surface currents to understand the mechanism of sediment transport analysing observed wave-induced current and ebb-current in the surf-zone generated by incoming waves and local winds.

Diel and Tidal Distributions of the Sand-burrowing Mysids Archaeomysis kokuboi and Acanthomysis nakazatoi on a Sandy Shore Surf Zone of Yongil Bay, Eastern Korea, in Relation to Growth Stages (동해 영일만 쇄파대에 서식하는 곤쟁이 Archaeomysis kokuboi와 Acanthomysis nakazatoi의 성장단계에 따른 주야 및 조석간 분포)

  • Jo, Soo-Gun;Kim, Chung-A;Suh, Hae-Lip
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.112-119
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    • 2012
  • This study investigated the diel and tidal distributions of the two mysids, Archaeomysis kokuboi and Acanthomysis nakazatoi, in relation to their growth stages in the sandy surf zone of Yongil Bay, located on the southeastern part of Korean Peninsula. Sampling was conducted with a sledge net at every two hours for almost 24 hours at three sites: water edge, water surface and sand bottom both in 1-m deep water areas. The abundance of Archaeomysis kokuboi juveniles was too low to count both in day and night samples. While there was no difference in immature A. kokuboi abundance between day and night in the bottom or water edge, that at the water surface was significantly higher at night than daytime. The abundance of A. kokuboi adults, especially of males, in the bottom was significantly higher in daytime than night and no individuals appeared to the water surface either day or night. In comparison, the abundance of Acanthomysis nakazatoi juveniles between day and night did not differ significantly at all the three sites, with the highest number being distributed in the bottom. The abundance of immatures between day and night also did not differ significantly and no individuals appeared to the water surface either day or night. The abundance of A. nakazatoi adults, especially females, in the bottom was significantly higher at night than daytime and there was no significant difference in abundance between day and night in the other sites. There was also no significant difference in abundances of the two species between ebb and flood tides, except for A. kokuboi immatures which appeared significantly more during the ebb tides at the water surface. Overall, the distribution of the two sympatric species, A. kokuboi and A. nakazatoi, was not the same in the sandy surf zone. Its difference seems to depend on their stages of growth, and the change in their abundance may be influenced more by diurnal rhythms than tidal effects. The population density of A. nakazatoi in the sandy surf zone was much higher than that of A. kokuboi, and relatively higher densities in all growth stages of the former were found in the sandy bottom ranging from juveniles to adults. These results indicate that A. nakazatoi has exceedingly better ability of sand burrowing even from the juvenile stage, and thus is an ecologically better adapted species in the sandy surf zone than another sympatric species, A. kokuboi.

Comparative Study of Design Methods for Sliding of Perforated-wall Caisson Breakwater (유공케이슨 방파제의 활동에 대한 설계법 비교 연구)

  • Kim, Nam-Hoon;Suh, Kyung-Duck
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.26 no.5
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    • pp.267-277
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    • 2014
  • The conventional performance-based design method for the solid-wall caisson breakwater has been extended and applied to the perforated-wall caisson. The mathematical model to calculate the sliding distance of a perforated-wall caisson is verified against hydraulic experimental data. The developed performance-based design method is then compared with the conventional deterministic method in different water depths. Both the expected sliding distance and the exceedance percentage of total sliding distance during the structure lifetime decrease with decreasing water depth outside the surf zone, but they increase with decreasing water depth inside the surf zone. The performance-based design method is either more economical or less economical than the deterministic method depending on which design criterion is used. If the criterion for the ultimate limit state is used, the former method is less economical than the latter outside the surf zone, whereas the two methods are equally economical inside the surf zone. However, if the breakwater is designed to satisfy the criterion for the repairable limit state, the former method is more economical than the latter in all water depths.

Subtidal Zonation of the Cumacean Bodotria biplicata in the Surf Zone of Dolsando, Southern Korea (돌산도 쇄파대에 사는 쿠마류 Bodotria biplicata의 조하대 대상분포)

  • SUH Hae-Lip;KOO Young Kyung
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • v.30 no.1
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    • pp.39-45
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    • 1997
  • Subtidal zonation of a cumacean Bodotria biplicata was investigated in the sandy shore surf zone of Dolsando, southern Korea. Three replicate samples were taken with a sledge net at three sites, such as the surface and bottom of 1 m depth and waters edge, at hourly intervals over the neap and spring tide cycles on January 1993 (n=225). B. biplicata, the most dominant cumacean in this area, exhibited peak density at the bottom while about $0.6\%$ of total catch was collected at the surface. Mean density during the neap tide cycle was slightly higher than that during the spring tide cycle. The depth of subtidal zone influenced the total catch of B. biplicata. The changes in density were related to the depth of subtidal zone rather than day-night cycle or ebb-flood tide. The results obtained in this study suggest that the diel vertical migration is not distinct. During both neap and spring tide cycles, B. biplicata attained a density maximum at the same level of about 90 cm below lower low water (LLW). It is likely, therefore, that this species performs shore- and seaward horizontal migration fortnightly. The speed and distance of migration may be directly related to the beach slope and tide range. Ontogenetic differences in subtidal distribution were observed. Juveniles and manca larvae tended to occur lower areas than the adults. Such differences may reduce intraspecific competition for diets.

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Biomechanical study of the Spider Crab as inspiration for the development of a biomimetic robot

  • Rynkevic, Rita;Silva, Manuel F.;Marques, M. Arcelina
    • Biomaterials and Biomechanics in Bioengineering
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    • v.2 no.4
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    • pp.249-269
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    • 2015
  • A problem faced by oil companies is the maintenance of the location register of pipelines that cross the surf zone, the regular survey of their location, and also their inspection. A survey of the state of art did not allow identifying operating systems capable of executing such tasks. Commercial technologies available on the market also do not address this problem and/or do not satisfy the presented requirements. A possible solution is to use robotic systems which have the ability to walk on the shore and in the surf zone, subject to existing currents and ripples, and being able to withstand these ambient conditions. In this sense, the authors propose the development of a spider crab biologically inspired robot to achieve those tasks. Based on these ideas, this work presents a biomechanical study of the spider crab, its modeling and simulation using the SimMechanics toolbox of Matlab/Simulink, which is the first phase of this more vast project. Results show a robot model that is moving in an "animal like" manner, the locomotion, the algorithm presented in this paper allows the crab to walk sideways, in the desired direction.