• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1995

In this paper, previously proposed mechanisms of generation and maintenance of rip currents are grouped into three broad categories; (1) prismatic topography models, (2) non-prismatic topography models and (3) structural controls by natural and/or constructed features, such as headlands, piers. groins, jetties. etc. The prismatic models can explain the occurrence of a rip current on a planar beach, while non-prismatic model needs undulatory topography inside the surf zone to generate and maintain a rip current. Yet more detailed and thorough studies need to be conducted to include all relevant variables and to clarify the mechanism(s) governing rip current. Next a simple model is presented to predict mean longshore currents behind a longshore bar (or submerged breakwaters) by considering mass transport over the bar and the bar morphology. This hydrodynamic model could be extended to include the sedimentary feedback mechanism.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.159-166
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• 2004

The beach, a margin between the sea and the land, is an extremely dynamic zone, for it is here that the motion of the sea interacts with the sediment, rock of the land or the artificial barriers. In order to prohibit or retard erosions due to the extreme Typhoon or storm induced waves, man has constructed these of temporary or more permanent nature, but they caused problems of other erosions from the secondary effect of them and a bad influence on the seascape. In considering the energy available to accelerate sediment transport and erosion in the surf zone, where the waves are broken, and offshore beyond the breaker line, the wave height and the wave period should be taken account. Hence, we tried to present an applicability of the submerged artificial Bio-reefs analyzing waves by a numerical model such that they could reduce the wave power without the secondary effect and restoration of marine ecologies. A new technique of beach preservation is by artificial reefs with artificial and/or natural kelps or sea plants. By engineering the geometry of the nearshore reef, the wave attenuation ability of the feature can be optimized Higher, wider and longer reefs provide the greatest barrier against wave energy but material volumes, navigation hazards, placement methods and other factors require engineering considerations for the overall design of the nearshore reefs.

• Korean Journal of Ichthyology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.182-202
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• 1990

Gobiid fish were collected monthly in Cheonsu Bay by a beach seine from the shallow water and by an otter trawl from the deep water from September, 1984 to August, 1986. Seasonal variation in species composition and biology of the major species were examined with the data of length and age composition. Fourteen speices of gobies were identified. Gobiid fish were more abundant in the shallow water than in the deep water. In the shallow water, they constituted 66% and 39% of the fish collected in the mud flat and the sand beach, respectively. The suction discs of the gobies explains that they inhabit successfully in the surf zone where the wave action is strong. Of the major species, Chaenogobius mororanus predominated in the shallow mud flat. A large number of adults of this species were obtained in Spring and their juveniles were collected from Summer through Autumn. Favonigobius gymnauchen was abundant in the shallow water, especially in the sand beach. This fish seemed to spawn from May through June, about two months later than Chaenogobius mororanus. Acanthogobius hasta juveniles lived in the shallow water and moved into the deep water as the fish grew. Chaturichthys stigmatias was collected mainly in the deep zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.162-168
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• 2017

Shallow-water bathymetry survey has been conducted using high definition color images obtained at the altitude of 100 m above sea level using a drone. Shallow-water bathymetry data are one of the most important input data for the research of beach erosion problems. Especially, accurate bathymetry data within closure depth are critically important, because most of the interesting phenomena occur in the surf zone. However, it is extremely difficult to obtain accurate bathymetry data due to wave-induced currents and breaking waves in this region. Therefore, optical remote sensing technique using a small drone is considered to be attractive alternative. This paper presents the potential utilization of image processing algorithms using multi-variable linear regression applied to red, green, blue and grey band images for estimating shallow water depth using a drone with HD camera. Optical remote sensing analysis conducted at Wolpo beach showed promising results. Estimated water depths within 5 m showed correlation coefficient of 0.99 and maximum error of 0.2 m compared with water depth surveyed through manual as well as ship-board echo-sounder measurements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.369-381
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• 2017

It has been presumed that highly nonlinear skewed waves frequently observed in a surf zone could significantly influence the transmission behaviour via a porous wave breaker due to its larger inertia force than its nonlinear counterparts of zero skewness [Cnoidal waves]. In this study, in order to confirm this perception, a numerical simulation has been implemented for 6 waves the skewness of that range from 1.02 to 1.032. A numerical simulation are based on the Tool Box called as the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. Skewed waves are guided by the shoal of 1:30 slope, and the flow in the porous media are analyzed by adding the additional damping term into the RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation). Numerical results show that the highly nonlinear skewed waves are of higher transmitted ratio than its counterparts due to its stronger inertia force. In this study, in order to see whether or not the damping at the porous structure has an effect on the wave celerity, we also derived the dispersive relationships of Nonlinear Shallow Water Eq. [NSW] with damping at the porous structure being accounted. The newly derived dispersive relationships shows that the phase lag between the damping friction and the free surface elevation due to waves significantly influence the wave celerity.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.179-186
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the developemnt could be easily neglected.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.243-249
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• 2000

Seasonal variation in species composition and abundance of shallow water fish off Yongwon, Jinhae in the southern coast of Korea was determined by the analysis of monthly samples collected by a beach seine from January to December, 1998. Among 54 species identified, the resident species such as Favonigobius gymnauchen, Chaenogobius laevis, Pholis nebulosa and juvenile Hyporhamphus intermedius were predominated in abundance. The temporal species such as Sardinella zunasi, Leiognathus nuchalis and Takifugu niphobles were collected between April and September. Mean abundance (322 individuals/1000 $m^2$ or 806 g/1000 $m^2$) was higher than that in the shallow sand surf zone of Teachon, but lower than that in the shallow mud area of Chonsu Bay in the western coast of Korea. A large number of H. intermedius were collected in cold months between November and January. The dominant resident species began to be collected from february, and the number of species and biomass were increased until July. A small number of temporal species were collected and subsequently the abundance was low from August to October when high abundance was expected as in the other shallow waters by recruitment of a large number of juveniles of temporal species. The low abundance in these warm months seemed to be related to the water quality by weak water circulation in this shallow mud area.