• Journal of architectural history
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.99-118
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• 2006

We have focused on the building appearance according to the change of conservation policy and urban fabric in Bukchon, Seoul. The Urban Hanok, urban traditional housing type, had been evolved in modern contort from 1920's to 1960's, that is to say, many buildings(Urban Hanok) in Bukchon area has built up with a lot and road at the same time. But the change of conservation policy has an effect on the urban fabric and building(wooden structure, RC and brick building). Thus many types of building in Bukchon has undergone a various change. The purpose of this paper is to define a change factor of Bukchon buildings. Thus we need to pay attention to policy and urban fabric. We reached the result as follows. First, the change of architecture regulations according to the several policies(an aesthetic area, an altitude area for sky line restriction and so on) brought into building deformation and eventually the historic scenery of Bukchon has been spoiled. Second, the change of policy had an effect on the change of roads and lots. Buildings on a widen road and a united lot was built newly. But new buildings built up with a concrete or brick structure was not in harmony with the historic scenery of Bukchon area. Third, a development method of a large lot with lack prudence(disregarded a scale and size of lot) did damage to Urban hanok and urban fabric. With the understanding on the relationship of buildings, a urban fabric and a policy in Bukchon, we can define the identity and correspond with the urgent request for a the conservation of historic urban scenery In addition we can suggest the policy and the design guidelines for the reservation and rehabilitation for Bukchon, Seoul.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.7
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• pp.15-24
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• 2002

In this work, the effect of fusible interlining on the appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of Lyocell fabric after fusing was investigated. Two different types(20's and 10's) of Lyocell face fabric with six different interlining(by thickness and structure) for earth Lyocell fabric were examined. In order to establish the optimum fusing condition for the different face fabric and interlining, peel strength of each fused fabric was measured, which was dependent on the fusing temperature, pressure, and time. The characteristics related appearance and mechanical characteristics of each fused fabric were determined. The results are as follows: The peel strength was excellent, when the fabric was fused with the force of 3kgf/$textrm{cm}^2$ at $120^{\circ}C$ for 15seconds. Flex stiffness, G, 2HG, 2HG5(shear), B, 2HB(bending) of 100% Lyocell fabric 10's were higher than those of 100% Lyocell 20's. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, B, 2HB of thicker woven interlining were higher than those of thinner woven interlining. Crease recovery of twill interlining were higher than those of plain interlining. In case of shear and bending properties, however, plain interlining was higher than twill interlining. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB of nonwoven interlining were higher than those of woven interlining. In case of drapability, however, woven interlining was higher than nonwoven interlining.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.28-41
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• 2015

Properties of textile fabrics influence the appearance, aesthetics, and performance of garment. Drape and related properties of fabrics affect profoundly the static and dynamic appearance during wearer's movement. The three dimensional shape of the folded structure often deforms with time or with subtle vibration around the fabric specimen during the drape measurement. Due to the uneven and complex nature of fabrics, the overall shape of the fabric specimen on the drape tester often becomes unstable. There is a need to understand the fundamental mechanisms of how draping may generate pleasing forms. Two drape test methods, conventional Cusick drape test, and in-built drape tester, based on a depth camera, are compared. Fabric specimens including cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyester, and rayon are investigated for the fabric drape and other physical/mechanical parameters. Drape coefficient values of fabric specimens are compared based on the final drape images, together with the intermediate 3D drape images of the specimens during elevation process of the drape tester equipped with a stepper motor system. The correlation coefficient between the data based on the two methods is reasonably high. Another advantage from the depth camera system is that it allows further analysis of three-dimensional information regarding the fabric drape shape, including the shape of nodes or crest and trough.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.5-16
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• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• Architectural research
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.45-52
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• 2001

In this paper, a pressurized single vertical arch and a pressurized leaning arch composed of flexible fabric material are considered. These arches have also been considered as a possible support structure for the tent-like structures. Two different boundary conditions are considered in leaning arches with fixed bases and pinned bases. The behaviors of the leaning arches are investigated for two tilt angles as 15, 30. For each angle, two loading conditions are considered as uniformly distributed load and wind loads. The F.E.M. is used through the all analysis procedures. For the results, load-deflection relationships, buckling modes, differences between two boundary conditions and deformed configurations are discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.313-317
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• 2005

The anisotropy in creep behavior of two types of nonwoven fabrics (needle-punched and thermobonded spun laid) has been studied. It has been observed that the amount of time dependent extension depends on the direction, amount of loading and the structure of nonwoven the fabrics. The time dependent extension (creep) for the nonwoven fabric increases with the increase in amount of load. The higher initial extension and creep are observed for needle-punched nonwoven fabric as compared to thermobonded spun-laid nonwoven fabric. The creep behavior of needle-punched nonwoven shows a logarithmic relationship with time, but the thermobonded spun-laid nonwoven fabric does not show such logarithmic relationship. For a particular fabric, the creep is dependent on the fiber arrangement and is minimum in the direction in which the proportion of fiber is maximum and visa versa.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-37
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• 2009

Studies on plants such as lotus leaf suggested that dual-scale structure could contribute to super-hydrophobicity. We introduced super-hydrophobicity onto poly(ethylene terephthalate)(PET) fabric with dual-scale structure by assembling $TiO_2$ nano sol. PET fabric was treated with $TiO_2$ sol, water-repellent agent using various parameters such as particle size, concentration. Morphological changes by particle size were observed using field emmission scanning electron microscopy(FE-SEM) and AFM measurement, contact angle measurement equipment. The contact angle of water was about 138.5$^{\circ}$, 125.8$^{\circ}$, 125.5$^{\circ}$ and 108.9$^{\circ}$ for PET fabric coated with 60.2nm, 120.1nm, 200nm and 410.5nm $TiO_2$ particles, compared with about 111.5$^{\circ}$ for PET fabric coated with water repellent. When we mixed particle sizes of 60.2nm and 120.1nm by 7:3 volume ratio, the contact angle of water was about 132.5$^{\circ}$. And we mixed particle sizes of 60.2nm and 200nm by 7:3 volume ratio, the contact angle of water was about 141.8$^{\circ}$. Also we mixed particle sizes of 60.2nm and 410.5nm by 7:3 volume ratio, the best super-hydrophobicity was obtained. In this paper, we fabricated various surface structures to the water-repellent surfaces by using four types of $TiO_2$ nano-particles, and we found that the nanoscale structure was very important for the super-hydrophobicity.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.131-134
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• 2004

In this paper, a representative unit volume (RUV) model was employed to simulate thermoforming process of carbon fabric-polymeric foam sandwich structures. Thermoforming simulations, which capture crimp angles and amplitude changes of carbon fabric with respect to different types of foams under the operating pressure were conducted with the help of RUV model. Changed shapes of tow structure after thermoforming were reflected in the two dimensional to determine mechanical properties of skin parts, i.e_ carbon fabric composites after thermoforming. Bending simulations with respect to different foam systems as well as different moduli of carbon fabric composites were successfully carried out by using properties obtained from two-dimensional analyses.