• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.179-184
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• 2020

Elasticity and softness of the skin depend on the level of moisture present in the stratum corneum, which is known to be affected by various environmental changes, such as cold and hot winds and dry environments. However, not many studies have been conducted on changes in skin moisture and the degree of recovery due to individual skin differences. In the present study, we aimed to investigate the effect of warm air heating on skin hydration levels and develop moisturizing formulas to improve lowered skin hydration levels. In order to deliver warm air heating condition, heating dryer (40 ℃, 6 m/s, 30 cm apart from forearm) was applied into inner forearm of healthy subjects (male: 10, female: 39, age: 25 - 63) Among 49 subjects, 26 subjects showed significantly lowered skin hydration levels until 30 min after warm air heating exposure (lowered group). In addition, moisturizing cream with high water holding capacity was applied to forearm of 10 subjects in lowered group for 3 weeks and skin hydration levels after warm air heating were significantly improved at the levels of before application of warm air heating. From this study, we found out that there is a skin type that skin hydration levels are significantly decreased under warm air heating condition (dehydrated skin) and this dehydrated skin can be improved by moisturizing formulas with high water holding capacity.

• Journal of Veterinary Clinics
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.330-339
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• 2008

Ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids are the major intercellular lipids, maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. However, the roles of these lipids in canine skin barrier function are little known. The aim of this study was to evaluate the repairing effects of 2% ceramide (CER), 2% cholesterol (CHO), 2% linoleic acid (LIN) and 2% intercellular lipid mixture (ILM) on damaged canine skin barrier by 1.25% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, skin pH and skin thickness were assessed. Histological profiles and transmission electron microscopic (TEM) profiles were assessed on day 12. SLS effectively induced the canine skin barrier damage. TEWL was significantly decreased by topical application of CER and ILM in SLS and vehicle-treated skin on day 8 and 12, respectively (p < 0.05, p < 0.0 I). By end of the experiment all lipids significantly decreased the TEWL as compared with SLS and vehicle control, but CER and ILM more significantly decreased the TEWL than UN and CHO, respectively (p < 0.01). Skin hydration was significantly increased by CER and ILM during experimental periods (p < 0.01). Skin pH was significantly decreased by CER, LIN and ILM. In histological profiles, the thickness of the stratum corneum (SC) was significantly increased by the SC lipids as compared with vehicle and SLS (p < 0.01). Especially, CER and ILM showed more prominent improvement of barrier recovery. In TEM of the SC, SLS induced exfoliations of corneodesmosomes in the SC, and CER and ILM effectively protected exfoliations of corneodesmosomes on SLS-damaged canine skin. These results indicated that topical application of CER and ILM dramatically improved damaged-skin barrier function by SLS. Also, it was considered that the use of CER or ILM was recommended for the management of skin barrier dysfunction by irritant and inflammatory skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.484-495
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• 2020

This study is a mixed surfactant (MimicLipid-MSM1000) that forms the same structure as that of the stratum corneum, sucrose distearate, polyglyceryl-2 dioleate, fermented squalane, ergosterol, 10-hydroxystearic acid, mixture consisting of was synthesized. When using 2~5 wt% of this mixed surfactant, it was possible to make an artificial skin mimetic that forms a multi-layer lamellar structure of 5~30 layers. An emulsion was prepared using this mixed surfactant, and a multi-layered lamellar phase was formed and analyzed mechanically. The appearance of this surfactant was a light brown hard wax, the hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) was 12.53, the critical parameter value was 0.987, and the acid value was 0.13. Stability according to pH change was also stable in acidic (3.8), neutral (7.2) and alkaline (10.8). The particle size of the liquid crystal was found to be the most stable maltese cross lamellar crystalline droplet at 5~25mm. The size of the emulsified particles according to the change in the speed of the homo agitator is 2500 rpm (17.9mm±2.6mm), 3500rpm (12.5mm±2.1mm), 4500rpm (6.2mm±1.8mm) particles were formed. Liquid crystal forming particles were observed through a polarization microscope, and the formation structure of the liquid crystal was precisely analyzed with a scanning electron microscope (cryo-SEM). As an application field, it is expected that it will be widely applicable to the development of various prescriptions, such as various skin care cosmetics, makeup care cosmetics, and scalp protection cosmetics, by using a skin-mimicking surfactant.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.205-232
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• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1 mg/ml UA or 0.1-1 mg/ml ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) was measured . The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1 mg/ml UA and 0.5 mg/ml ONA) at 6 h more than $20\%$ compared to vehicle treated group (p<0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from f week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent $(ONA{\geq}UA>Vehicle)$. LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Veh). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;\alpha$. Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either $ONA\;(10{\mu}M)$ or UA $(10{\mu}M)$ for 24h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;{\alpha}$. Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.337-342
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• 2005

The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested $0{\sim}27%dml$ Polyols and $0{\sim}35%dml$ oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.1383-1392
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• 2021

It has been reported that emodin, a major pharmacologically active ingredient of herbal medicines such as Polygonum cuspidatum, Polygonum multiflorum, Rheum palmatum, and Aloe vera, is effective in antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and liver protection. In this study, to investigate the potential of emodin to be used as a skin disease and functional material, the activity related to the improvement of inflammation and skin barrier function was confirmed. To observe the anti-inflammatory effect on HaCaT cells, which are human keratinocytes, cytokine inhibition was confirmed by ELISA kit and protein expression by western blot. In HaCaT cells activated with TNF-α (10 ng/mL)/IFN-γ (10 ng/mL), emodin was treated with each concentration (5, 10, 20, 40) µM. As a result, It was confirmed that the production amount of TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6 decreased as the concentration of emodin increased. In the experimental results on the expression levels of inflammation-related proteins iNOS and COX-2, it was confirmed that 48% of iNOS and 29% of COX-2 were inhibited compared to control at a concentration of 20 µM of emodin. As an indicator of skin barrier function improvement, the mRNA expression level of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn and the production amount of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn were confirmed. and excellent results were obtained with an emodin concentration-dependent increase. In particular, filaggrin, which was produced twice as much as the control at a concentration of 20 µM, is a protein involved in the formation of NMF, a natural moisturizing factor, and is known to play an important role in moisturizing the stratum corneum. In conclusion, it was confirmed that emodin can be used as a material for improving inflammation and improving skin barrier function, which is part of the potential for use as a skin disease and functional material. It is believed that if additional research is performed in the future, the scope of its application can be further expanded.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2019

The epidermal growth factor (EGF) has a intrinsic function of inducing growth and proliferation of cells through interacting with cell membrane receptors in human epidermis and dermis layer. These functions of EGF are used as a main ingredient for wound healing medicines and anti-aging cosmetics. As a cosmetic ingredient, the EGF has a problem in exhibiting its natural efficacy due to the lack of the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum, which is known as the skin barrier. In this study, a recombinant human epidermal growth factor ($MTD_{151}-EGF$) fused with the macromolecule transduction domain $(MTD)_{151}$ with the skin penetration ability was developed to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the EGF. Expression of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was performed in E. coli transformed with a vector encoding the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ gene and then purified. The purified $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was evaluated using cell proliferation assay, cytotoxicity test and skin penetration test by franz diffusion cell assay and artificial skin. Cell proliferation activity of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ purified to high purity of 99% or above was equivalent to the EGF or better, and cytotoxicity was not observed. In addition, the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ showed an excellent penetration efficiency compared to the EGF in the skin penetration test with EGF and $MTD_{151}-EGF$ labeled by FITC in an artificial skin penetration model. Based on the quantitative analysis of the penetrating substance using franz diffusion cell assay, the amount of penetration was about 16 times more than that of EGF. These results can be regarded as an effective alternative to improve the existing physical transdermal penetration method related to the use of various active ingredients for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.