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http://dx.doi.org/10.12925/jkocs.2020.37.3.484

A Study on the Formation of Lamellar Liquid Crystalline Using Skin Mimicking Surfactant  

Kim, In-Young (R&D Center, Biobeautech Co., Ltd.)
Nam, Eun-Hee (R&D Center, Biobeautech Co., Ltd.)
Shin, Moon-Sam (Dept. of Senior Healthy Care and Beauty and Cosmetic science, Eulji University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology / v.37, no.3, 2020 , pp. 484-495 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study is a mixed surfactant (MimicLipid-MSM1000) that forms the same structure as that of the stratum corneum, sucrose distearate, polyglyceryl-2 dioleate, fermented squalane, ergosterol, 10-hydroxystearic acid, mixture consisting of was synthesized. When using 2~5 wt% of this mixed surfactant, it was possible to make an artificial skin mimetic that forms a multi-layer lamellar structure of 5~30 layers. An emulsion was prepared using this mixed surfactant, and a multi-layered lamellar phase was formed and analyzed mechanically. The appearance of this surfactant was a light brown hard wax, the hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) was 12.53, the critical parameter value was 0.987, and the acid value was 0.13. Stability according to pH change was also stable in acidic (3.8), neutral (7.2) and alkaline (10.8). The particle size of the liquid crystal was found to be the most stable maltese cross lamellar crystalline droplet at 5~25mm. The size of the emulsified particles according to the change in the speed of the homo agitator is 2500 rpm (17.9mm±2.6mm), 3500rpm (12.5mm±2.1mm), 4500rpm (6.2mm±1.8mm) particles were formed. Liquid crystal forming particles were observed through a polarization microscope, and the formation structure of the liquid crystal was precisely analyzed with a scanning electron microscope (cryo-SEM). As an application field, it is expected that it will be widely applicable to the development of various prescriptions, such as various skin care cosmetics, makeup care cosmetics, and scalp protection cosmetics, by using a skin-mimicking surfactant.
Keywords
mimic skin; liquid crystalline structure; polarized microscopy; stability; emulsification; skin care cosmetics;
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Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
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