• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.79-82
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• 2012

Aim of this study is to investigate the dimensional characteristics of the weft knitted fabrics with Bamboo knitted yarn. This Bamboo knitted yarn was made of the biodegradability fiber. The structure of weft knitted fabrics that was utilized for this study is the plain stitch, which is the most basic structure among all weft knitted fabrics. The loop density, courses density, and wales density are more increased as the loop length is shorter. The loop density increased as pre-treatment process and dyeing process progressed after dry treatment process, and on the contrary, the heat setting process made it decreasing. After the dyeing process proceed, the loop density and the course density were displayed the highest values. When the knitted fabrics were fully relaxed, the loop density was $2000/in^2$, the courses density was 52/in, the wales density was 39/in.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.33-40
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• 2005

Gathering is method used to control fullness along a seam line. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the quantitative research and qualitative method; the effect of gather and the types of gather drape. The experimental design consists of four factors: (l) three kinds of different weight and thickness of fabrics (2) three kinds of stitch densities (3) five kinds of ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of grain directions. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. And utilized SPSS WIN 10.0 Package in data analysis. The results of this study were as follows; First, after frequency analysis, side height, hem line width, node depth, node count, node width accorded with these result data recording. Second, after correlation analysis, side height related with front statements. Side height and entire visual was negative correlation. Hem line width, node depth, node count with section statements was negative correlation but node width at section statements was positive correlation. Third, after $k^2$ analysis, front picture parts getting excellent evaluation were 1st side height, 3rd hem line width, 4th node depth, 3rd node count, 3rd node width. And section illustration parts getting excellent evaluation were 4th side height, 1st hem line width, 2nd node depth, 3rd node count, 4th node width.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.117-123
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• 2014

This paper examined dyeing using sulfur dye with nylon and the characteristics of high gauge knitting for generating high functionality including light weight, wind resistance and elasticity using fine nylon threads. Yarn tension, stitch field and knitting speed of high and fine gauge knitting were measured. The influence of reducing agents on sulfur dye, optimum dyeing conditions and fastness features in nylon dyeing were analyzed. The analysis results are presented below. When nylon (Hyoseong, 40d/34f) and spandex (Hyoseong, 20d) for use as hosiery yarn were used to knit high gauge and flat weave, 44 gauge, the effective knitting conditions were a stitch field over 8.2cm in 1 course length, yarn tension of less than 5g and knitting speed below 18rpm. Nylon dyeing using sulfur dye showed effective results when a rongalite reducing agent was used at more than 10% o.w.f. and dyeing was maintained at $98^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. For dyeing nylon and spandex composite using sulfur dye, color fastness in washing, water, daylight and friction were higher than Class 4 or 5, which indicated a superior property. The analysis results verified that the existing problems in nylon dyeing could be solved by using sulfur dyes that don't use heavy metals due to superior fastness and therefore quality, high gauge nylon knit products could be produced.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• 한국기록관리학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.79-105
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• 2005

본 연구는 조선시대의 고문서에 사용된 종이를 분석하여 그 특징을 고찰함에 그 목적을 두고 있다. 현존하는 종이 실물의 분석을 통하여 조선시대 고문서에 사용된 종이의 상태와 변화를 실질적으로 관찰해 보고자 한다. 분석대상은 문중에 소장하고 있는 고문서 1,504건으로, 그 종류는 17종 23항이다. 분석방법으로는 종이의 발형태(발초 발끈의 형태), 밀도, 섬유종류를 분석하는 방법을 시도하였다. 우선 발의 형태는 발초수와 발끈폭으로 나누어 관찰하였는데, 3cm내의 발초수는 크게 10개 내외의 경우와 17개 내외의 경우로 나누어진다. 17개 내외의 경우는 조선초기의 책지에서 보이는 발초수와 유사하나, 10개 내외의 경우는 그 사례가 드물다. 10개 내외의 발초수를 갖춘 것은 1933년 Dard Hunter의 조사에 보이는 억새발인 것으로 파악된다. 발초수를 시기적으로 살펴보면, 조선전기에 비해 중기부터 말기로 갈수록 발초가 더욱 촘촘해짐을 확인할 수 있다. 발끈폭은 상당히 불규칙적으로 나타나며, 이외에도 다양한 현상을 발견할 수 있다. 예를 들면, 발끈과 발끈 사이에 짧은 발끈이 있는 경우, 발끈이 이중으로 나타나는 경우, 발끈폭이 좁게 나타나는 경우 등이 그것이다. 발끈폭은 조선후기로 갈수록 좁아지는 현상을 보이는데, 특히 1800년대 이후에 확연히 좁아짐을 알 수 있다. 다음으로 밀도를 살펴보면, 문서종류마다 나타나는 평균밀도가 "탁지준절(度支準折)"에 기록된 종이 종류와 무관하지 않다. 종이 종류의 항목이 같은 문서는 서로 유사한 평균밀도를 보이며 초주지, 상품도련지, 하품도련지, 저주지의 순으로 밀도가 점점 낮아진다. 이외에도 같은 종류 문서의 밀도를 분석해 보면 당시에 문서를 둘러싼 다양한 이해관계를 알 수 있다. 마지막으로 문서지에 사용된 식물섬유의 종류를 살펴보았다. "탁지준절"에서 구분한 상품도련지, 하품도련지, 초주지, 저주지를 사용한 각 문서지의 섬유를 관찰한 결과, 모두 같은 형태의 닥섬유임을 알 수 있다. 이는 문서지 제조에 사용된 종이가 식물섬유의 차이에 의해서 구분되었던 것이 아니라, 제작 가공방법 등의 차이로 구분되었음을 알려주는 것이다. 문서의 작성목적에 따라 종이의 종류를 다르게 사용하고, 시기에 따라서도 종이의 특징이 다른 양상으로 나타난다. 본 연구를 통해서 책지(冊紙)와 문서지(文書紙)의 비교를 할 수 있고, 중국의 고대 종이와 조선시대 종이의 비교도 가능하게 되었다. 이와 같은 연구를 통해 당시의 종이 종류와 문서종류별 시대별 변화과정을 구체적으로 이해할 수 있는 계기가 되리라 믿는다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.146-149
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• 2000

This study has been investigated the comparison of the seam strength of hand sewing with machine sewing using two kinds of sewing thread. On machine sewing, thread is used for sale, on hand sewing, thread is used for every fabric weft yarn. Breaking strength, efficiency and breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabric and three kinds of stitch type. The results obtained are as follows: The seam strength is not affected by sewing mechanism, but affected by a breaking mode : The type of slipped mode has a higher seam strength of hand sewing than that of machine sewing. When fabrics and threads were broken by a higher seam strength of machine sewing than that of hand sewing. Fabrics having low density using plain seam slipped more easily, so seam strength was greatly lesser. Fabrics having higher density had higher to seam strength. We should choose appropriate seams based on production, economy and aesthetics.

• 한국진공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국진공학회 2016년도 제50회 동계 정기학술대회 초록집
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• pp.329-329
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• 2016

Large-area graphene films produced by means of chemical vapor deposition (CVD) are polycrystalline and thus contain numerous grain boundaries that can greatly degrade their performance and produce inhomogeneous properties. A better grain boundary engineering in CVD graphene is essential to realize the full potential of graphene in large-scale applications. Here, we report a defect-selective atomic layer deposition (ALD) for stitching grain boundaries of CVD graphene with ZnO so as to increase the connectivity between grains. In the present ALD process, ZnO with hexagonal wurtzite structure was selectively grown mainly on the defect-rich grain boundaries to produce ZnO-stitched CVD graphene with well-connected grains. For the CVD graphene film after ZnO stitching, the inter-grain mobility is notably improved with only a little change in free carrier density. We also demonstrate how ZnO-stitched CVD graphene can be successfully integrated into wafer-scale arrays of top-gated field effect transistors on 4-inch Si and polymer substrates, revealing remarkable device-to-device uniformity.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.143-149
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• 1981

Consumer consider the purpose for which they plan to use clothes when they purchase it, and the socks in textile products is evaluated in the same way. serviceability is judged by the extent to which the socks will be useful for its intended purpose. It should retain its original shape and size, good air permeability, good absorbency, good abrasion resistance, high fastness etc. Owing to importance of serviceability in socks, in this paper, these end-use requirement characteristics were tested. The results obtained were as follows: 1. Blend ratios were different between the indicated fiber contents on labels and the testing ones. 2. Air permeability was higher in the samples which contain less stitch density, and hydroscopicity was higher in those which contain natural fibers such as cotton and wool. 3. Shrinkage depended on the blend ratios of cotton and wool, and elastic recovery was better in the course direction than in the wale direction. 4. Pilling was conspicuous in the synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, and fastness of laundering and perspiration was higher in the fading grade than in the staining grade.