• Title/Summary/Keyword: Stitch density

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A study on the Sewing Condition of the Lower part of the Armhole Seam by Cap Heights (소매산 높이에 따른 소매달림선 하부곡선상의 봉제조건에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Myung-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.229-234
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    • 2002
  • An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

A Study on the Dimensional Characteristics of the Weft Knitted Fabrics with Bamboo Knitted Yarn (Bamboo사 평 편조직 위편성물의 형태안정성에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Jae-Woo;Jang, Bong-Sik;Lee, Eun-Woo;Kim, Dong-Yeub
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.79-82
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    • 2012
  • Aim of this study is to investigate the dimensional characteristics of the weft knitted fabrics with Bamboo knitted yarn. This Bamboo knitted yarn was made of the biodegradability fiber. The structure of weft knitted fabrics that was utilized for this study is the plain stitch, which is the most basic structure among all weft knitted fabrics. The loop density, courses density, and wales density are more increased as the loop length is shorter. The loop density increased as pre-treatment process and dyeing process progressed after dry treatment process, and on the contrary, the heat setting process made it decreasing. After the dyeing process proceed, the loop density and the course density were displayed the highest values. When the knitted fabrics were fully relaxed, the loop density was $2000/in^2$, the courses density was 52/in, the wales density was 39/in.

Analysis of Types of Gather Drape with Visual Evaluation (시각적 평가에 의한 개더 드레이프 형상 분석)

  • Lee Myung-Hee;Jung Hee-Kyeong
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.33-40
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    • 2005
  • Gathering is method used to control fullness along a seam line. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the quantitative research and qualitative method; the effect of gather and the types of gather drape. The experimental design consists of four factors: (l) three kinds of different weight and thickness of fabrics (2) three kinds of stitch densities (3) five kinds of ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of grain directions. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. And utilized SPSS WIN 10.0 Package in data analysis. The results of this study were as follows; First, after frequency analysis, side height, hem line width, node depth, node count, node width accorded with these result data recording. Second, after correlation analysis, side height related with front statements. Side height and entire visual was negative correlation. Hem line width, node depth, node count with section statements was negative correlation but node width at section statements was positive correlation. Third, after $k^2$ analysis, front picture parts getting excellent evaluation were 1st side height, 3rd hem line width, 4th node depth, 3rd node count, 3rd node width. And section illustration parts getting excellent evaluation were 4th side height, 1st hem line width, 2nd node depth, 3rd node count, 4th node width.

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Dyeing Properties of Sulfur Dye Using Nylon High Density Knitting Fabrics (황화염료를 이용한 고밀도 나일론 편성물의 염색성)

  • Chung, Myung-Hee;Cho, Ho-Hun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.117-123
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    • 2014
  • This paper examined dyeing using sulfur dye with nylon and the characteristics of high gauge knitting for generating high functionality including light weight, wind resistance and elasticity using fine nylon threads. Yarn tension, stitch field and knitting speed of high and fine gauge knitting were measured. The influence of reducing agents on sulfur dye, optimum dyeing conditions and fastness features in nylon dyeing were analyzed. The analysis results are presented below. When nylon (Hyoseong, 40d/34f) and spandex (Hyoseong, 20d) for use as hosiery yarn were used to knit high gauge and flat weave, 44 gauge, the effective knitting conditions were a stitch field over 8.2cm in 1 course length, yarn tension of less than 5g and knitting speed below 18rpm. Nylon dyeing using sulfur dye showed effective results when a rongalite reducing agent was used at more than 10% o.w.f. and dyeing was maintained at $98^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. For dyeing nylon and spandex composite using sulfur dye, color fastness in washing, water, daylight and friction were higher than Class 4 or 5, which indicated a superior property. The analysis results verified that the existing problems in nylon dyeing could be solved by using sulfur dyes that don't use heavy metals due to superior fastness and therefore quality, high gauge nylon knit products could be produced.

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A Study on Adapting Patterns to Stable Knit Fabrics in Relation to Drapability

  • Song, Mi-Ryong;Yang, Soo-Yung
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.80-96
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    • 1999
  • This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

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The Study on the Fabrics of King Muryeong's Tomb at the Baekje(百濟) Period (백제 무령왕릉 출토 직물 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin;Jeon, Hyun-Sil
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.8
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    • pp.37-47
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    • 2007
  • This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

An Analysis of Papers used in Historical Manuscrips (조선시대 고문서(古文書)에 사용된 종이 분석)

  • Son, Ke-Young
    • Journal of Korean Society of Archives and Records Management
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.79-105
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    • 2005
  • This study is that the name from Tagjijunjeol is compared with the actual papers used in historical documents. I have selected the families having had influencing power in Gyungi-Do(京畿道), Gyungsang-Do(慶尙道), Jeonra-Do(全羅道), Chungcheung-Do(忠淸道), and analyzed 1504 articles of historical documents owned by those families. I checked up each papers used in historical documents in it's shape of screens, density, raw material. I cannot find the feature of it's region, but prominent feature according to the types and period of historical documents. At first, I have surveyed the impressions of screen marks in papers. The number of strips can be divided into two cases, around 10 and around 17. The case around 17 is similar to the number seen in the book paper of the early Joseon Dynasty, but the case around 10 is rare. Dard Hunter said in his book, published in 1933, that screens were made of Korean grass(Miscanthus sp.) at that time in Korea. I guess the impressions of screen marks of the case around 10 was made of Korean grass, Miscanthus sp.. The case around 10 and the case around 17 were not different in period, but the contemporary appearance. However, if we look into the change of strips' number, we can learn that it becomes more dense as time goes by. The intervals of hair stitch, contrary to book paper, have appeared irregularly and a short hair stitch was frequently found between long hair stitches. This was the result of fastening extra stitch to increase the firmness of strips, as the part of screens which was frequently touched by hands would wear out easily. Then, have look into the density. Each kinds of historical documents had a wide range of density. But the average have had relationship with the kinds of paper written in Tagjijunjeol. The historical documents having the same item of paper have kept similar densities. From the density variation of Gosingyoji(告身敎旨), the letter of appointment the official rank over 5 by king, based on time periods, we can see a great disparity between before and after Imjin-waeran war. Before Imjin-waeran war paper's quality was high, right after Imjin-waeran war went abruptly down, and went gradually up just from 1650's, but since 1700's quality has not risen more, kept the value. On the contrary, the density of Gyocheop(敎牒), the letter of appointment the official rank under 5 by the Ministry of Personnel and the Ministry of Military, have not had a great disparity according to time periods, but had a lower density than Gosingyoji. Joseon Dynasty has strictly divided Gosingyoji appointing the official rank over 5 from Gyocheop appointing the official rank under 5, it seems to distinguish the appointment by king from the appointment by Ijo(吏曹), the Ministry of Personnel and Byeongjo(兵曹), the Ministry of Military.

Seam Strength of Hand Sewing and Machine Sewing according to The Seam Type in Korea Costumes (솔기유형에 따른 손바느질과 재봉질의 봉합강도)

  • Kim, Jeong-Jin;Jang, Jeong-Dae
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.146-149
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    • 2000
  • This study has been investigated the comparison of the seam strength of hand sewing with machine sewing using two kinds of sewing thread. On machine sewing, thread is used for sale, on hand sewing, thread is used for every fabric weft yarn. Breaking strength, efficiency and breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabric and three kinds of stitch type. The results obtained are as follows: The seam strength is not affected by sewing mechanism, but affected by a breaking mode : The type of slipped mode has a higher seam strength of hand sewing than that of machine sewing. When fabrics and threads were broken by a higher seam strength of machine sewing than that of hand sewing. Fabrics having low density using plain seam slipped more easily, so seam strength was greatly lesser. Fabrics having higher density had higher to seam strength. We should choose appropriate seams based on production, economy and aesthetics.

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Single-Domain-Like Graphene with ZnO-Stitching by Defect-Selective Atomic Layer Deposition

  • Kim, Hong-Beom;Park, Gyeong-Seon;Nguyen, Van Long;Seong, Myeong-Mo
    • Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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    • 2016.02a
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    • pp.329-329
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    • 2016
  • Large-area graphene films produced by means of chemical vapor deposition (CVD) are polycrystalline and thus contain numerous grain boundaries that can greatly degrade their performance and produce inhomogeneous properties. A better grain boundary engineering in CVD graphene is essential to realize the full potential of graphene in large-scale applications. Here, we report a defect-selective atomic layer deposition (ALD) for stitching grain boundaries of CVD graphene with ZnO so as to increase the connectivity between grains. In the present ALD process, ZnO with hexagonal wurtzite structure was selectively grown mainly on the defect-rich grain boundaries to produce ZnO-stitched CVD graphene with well-connected grains. For the CVD graphene film after ZnO stitching, the inter-grain mobility is notably improved with only a little change in free carrier density. We also demonstrate how ZnO-stitched CVD graphene can be successfully integrated into wafer-scale arrays of top-gated field effect transistors on 4-inch Si and polymer substrates, revealing remarkable device-to-device uniformity.

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End-Uses Studies on the Physical Chemical Properties of Socks in the Market (시판 양말의 물성에 관한 소비과학적 검사)

  • 조현혹
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.143-149
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    • 1981
  • Consumer consider the purpose for which they plan to use clothes when they purchase it, and the socks in textile products is evaluated in the same way. serviceability is judged by the extent to which the socks will be useful for its intended purpose. It should retain its original shape and size, good air permeability, good absorbency, good abrasion resistance, high fastness etc. Owing to importance of serviceability in socks, in this paper, these end-use requirement characteristics were tested. The results obtained were as follows: 1. Blend ratios were different between the indicated fiber contents on labels and the testing ones. 2. Air permeability was higher in the samples which contain less stitch density, and hydroscopicity was higher in those which contain natural fibers such as cotton and wool. 3. Shrinkage depended on the blend ratios of cotton and wool, and elastic recovery was better in the course direction than in the wale direction. 4. Pilling was conspicuous in the synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, and fastness of laundering and perspiration was higher in the fading grade than in the staining grade.

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