• Title/Summary/Keyword: Stitch

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Priest's Robes in the Shoso-in of Japan and their maker (일본 정창원의 가사와 그 제작국)

  • 이춘계
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.33 no.3
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    • pp.265-277
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    • 1995
  • Shoos-in in Nara of Japan has two kinds of Priest's robe(Kasa : 袈裟) ; one is Jiksung Kasa(織成袈裟), the other Janap Kasa(刺納袈裟). The former is listed as the 'Jiksung Kasa of tree bark color in seven stripes' in the Treasures Record(珍寶帳) of objects dedicated by Empress Komyo on the 21st day of the 6th month 756 A.D. The warp threads are brown and the weft threads are in groups of two in two colors-dark blue, green yellow and red. The latter is the so called Janap Kasa, of tree bark colors in seven stripes, that was also dedicated by Empress Komyo, 'Ja' means to stitch, and 'Nap' means to sew. It is made of patches of silk of various color, placed overlapping one another in patterns the resemble a mountainous landscape. All are stitched together in a continous quilt-like manner with purple threads. Japan has been under the strong influence of Korea Buddhism during the Nara period. Acording to Nihonki(日本書紀) and Sokunihonki(續日本紀), from 668 to 769 A.D., Japan has bought numorous objects including Buddhist utensils such as priest's robes and banners from Korea. Also during the same period Japan has perchased many kinds of dyestuffs and paint. So we can be certain that priest’s robes were imported from Korea like many other objects of Shoso-in.

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Expression Techniques and Characteristics of Leather in Contemporary Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 가죽의 표현 기법과 특성)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.71-82
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    • 2011
  • This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

A Study on Moisture Related Properties and Human Sensations of Underwear (1) -A Study on Water and Water Vapor Transport characteristics of Underwear Fabrics- (시판 내의류소재의 수분특성 및 착용감에 관한 연구 (I) -시판 내의류 소재의 수분특성-)

  • 이순원
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 1988
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate water and after vapor transport characteristics of underwear fabrics. Experimental materials were cotton woven fabric and cotton knitted fabric, nylon tricot (untreated and hydrophilic finished) and cotton/polyester/cotton triple layer. Cotton knitted fabric have three types of knit structure (interlock, rib, plain stitch) and knit with either 38's or 60's combed yarn. And cotton woven fabric have plain weave with 60's combed yarn. As experimental methods, vapor cup test, dynamic method, vertical wicking test and transplanar uptake test were used. The results are as follows. 1) In cotton specimens, the order of water vapor transpiration (wvt) was plain > rib > interlock in the same yarn diameter. The knit fabric of thinner yarn showed the better wvt among the same knit structure. 2) In cotton specimens, the order of water absorbency was interlock > rib > plain in the same yarn diameter. the knit fabric of thicker yarn showed the better absorbency among the same knit structure. 3) When knit fabric (60's plain) is compared with woven fabric 960's plain), knit fabric showed faster rate of wvt, more amount of uptake and slower rate of water uptake than woven fabric did. 4) When compared untreated nylon with hydrophilic finished nylon, hydrophilic finished nylon showed much more water absorbency than untreated nylon did, but showed same rate of wvt. 5) The water transport characteristics of triple layer underwear fabric showed that the thinner and the lighter one, the better wvt and absorbency did.

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A Study on Fashion Design through Ethnic Costume Image of Chinese Miao Nationality (중국(中國) 묘족(苗族) 민속의상(民俗衣裳) 이미지의 디자인 연구(硏究))

  • Shin, Kyeong-Seob
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.33-44
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

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Study on the analyze brassiere pattern by brand

  • Park, You-Shin;Choi, Young-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.10 no.6
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    • pp.122-130
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to develop the appropriate brassiere pattern for women. Total of 6 brands with same design and 75A, 80A size brassieres(total 12 brassieres) were compared and analyzed for pattern, cup size and patterns. SPSS 10.1 statistic process was used for data analysis. The outcom of this study is summarized as follows. Total length of brassiere by grade were performed smaller than the standard difference 5cm. For 1/2 front cover length, There were no significant differences between 75 and 80. The reason for lower line of wing is shorter than upper line of wing is because side support is cut side ways considering lower line of wing is sewn more toward front than upper line of wing. Even it is same A cup size most cup related sizes become larger according to underbust comparing with cup capacity, they range from 146.67cc to 172.83cc for same A cups. Among same A cups with difference underbust there was average of 26.16cc differences. For relations of material, sewing technology and expansion rate, all 6 brands had zigzag type sewing for upper line tape. For every 0.3cm height, there were $17{\sim}21$ stitches. When urethane mixture is similar expansion rate is higher while number of 1 inch zigzag are high. For elasticity, zigzag stitch expand side ways for more expansion.

Real-Time Panorama Video Generation System using Multiple Networked Cameras (다중 네트워크 카메라 기반 실시간 파노라마 동영상 생성 시스템)

  • Choi, KyungYoon;Jun, KyungKoo
    • Journal of KIISE
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    • v.42 no.8
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    • pp.990-997
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    • 2015
  • Panoramic image creation has been extensively studied. Existing methods use customized hardware, or apply post-processing methods to seamlessly stitch images. These result in an increase in either cost or complexity. In addition, images can only be stitched under certain conditions such as existence of characteristic points of the images. This paper proposes a low cost and easy-to-use system that produces realtime panoramic video. We use an off-the-shelf embedded platform to capture multiple images, and these are then transmitted to a server in a compressed format to be merged into a single panoramic video. Finally, we analyze the performance of the implemented system by measuring time to successfully create the panoramic image.

An investigation on the mechanical properties of cable stitches in weft knitting (위편성 케이블 조직의 편성법에 따른 물성 평가)

  • Choi, Wonseok
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.20 no.4
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    • pp.73-82
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    • 2018
  • This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.

The Development of Embroidery Textile Design Using Machine Embroidery CAD System (기계자수 CAD시스템을 활용한 자수 텍스타일 디자인 전개)

  • Jungha Lim;Seungyeun Heo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.87-99
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study is to develop machine embroidery textile designs for each technique that can be expressed using a single-headed computer embroidery sewing machine through a machine embroidery CAD system. For research, embroidery CAD utilized the Artistic digitizer, and the guillotine computer-mechanical magnetization machine used ELNA. The design concept was limited to portraits and relics of independence activists in six memorial halls built in Korea. The results of this study are as follows. First, it was found that the machine embroidery texture, which could only be produced by industries in the past, can be expand in the infinite creative embroidery design area by enabling the digitalization of motif images and the simulation of machine embroidery techniques through various layout options. Second, in the development of machine embroidery textures, it was found that the setting of the width, height, axis ratio, stitch, object, path, length, density, layer order, etc. in embroidery CAD is a very important part of determining the completeness of the embroidery results. Third, mechanical embroidery textile designs, which can be represented by single-head computer machine embroidery machine were able to show colorful embroidery results that differs from the original image by using seven main techniques and five deep technique alone or in combination, according to the designer's intention.

Exploring the Mechanisms and Target Diseases of Sasang Constitutional Prescription based on Multiscale Interactome (다계층 상호작용 네트워크 기반 사상처방의 작용 기전과 대상 질환 탐색 연구)

  • Won-Yung Lee;Ji Hwan Kim
    • Journal of Sasang Constitutional Medicine
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    • v.35 no.4
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    • pp.10-22
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    • 2023
  • Objectives The aim of this study is to explore the mechanism of action and target diseases of Sasang constitutional prescriptions using a multiscale interactome approach. Methods The compound and target information of Sasang constitutional prescriptions were retrieved from various databases such as the TM-MC, STITCH, and TTD. Key targets for Sasang constitutional prescriptions were identified by selecting the top 100 targets based on the number of simple paths within the constructed network. Diffusion profiles for Sasang constitutional prescriptions and diseases were calculated based on a biased random walk algorithm. Potential diseases and key mechanisms of Sasang constitutional prescriptions were identified by analyzing diffusion profiles. Results We identified 144 Sasang constitutional prescriptions and their targets, finding 80 herbs with effective biological targets. A cluster analysis based on selecting up to 100 key targets for each prescription revealed a more cohesive grouping of prescriptions according to Sasang constitution. We then predicted potential diseases for 62 Sasang constitutional prescriptions using diffusion profiles calculated on a multiscale interactome. Finally, our analysis of diffusion profiles revealed key targets and biological functions of prescriptions in obesity and diabetes. Conclusions This study demonstrates the effectiveness of a multiscale interactome approach in elucidating the complex mechanisms and potential therapeutic applications of prescriptions in Sasang constitutional medicine.

The Development of Contemporary Fashion Designs Specialized in the Traditional Costume of the Miao (중국 묘족(苗族) 복식을 특화시킨 현대적 패션 디자인 개발)

  • Lee, Keum-Hee;Yoon, Ji-Won;Han, Jung-Ah
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.15 no.5
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    • pp.902-915
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    • 2007
  • This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

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