• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.13-31
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• 2012

The purpose of the study was to analyze the work clothes' clothing comfort and wearer mobility of painting workers with the consideration of the work environment features in the machine and shipbuilding industries in South Korea. A questionnaire survey was conducted for the study, which consisted of questions on the clothing comfort and wearer mobility aspects of painting work clothes by clothes types and body parts. The work clothes' clothing comfort and wearer mobility levels were scaled in 5 points i.e. 1(: very tight/very uncomfortable) to 5(: very slack/very comfortable). The painting work environmental hazardous features were considered as high impact levels of workplace temperature, oxygen deficiency, organic solvent, toxic gas factors while metal fragment factor only impacts 'low' in the painting processes with the findings throughout this study. Since the painting work consisted of surface washing and the spray and touch-up painting processes, which was carried out in an outdoor work place, the painting work clothes should meet high performance of waterproofing from the painting material and air permeability specially in summer as well as thermal performance in winter. The subjects painting workers' assessment of the existing work clothes' clothing oppression was in the levels between 3 (i.e. moderate) and 4 (i.e. comfortable) in a range of 1 to 5 points. The existing painting work clothes' wearer mobility was evaluated 'very uncomfortable' in all work clothes parts, especially, armhole length, biacromial breadth, sleeve length of the jumper; and body rise, waist, hip, thigh and knee circumferences of the pants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.103-120
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• 1999

The purpose of the study is to show concretely the design features due to cltohes image after classifying the clothes image examining relations between clothes images and design factors. Samples of the study were 507 female university students. Materials of the study were 309 slide film using the spring and fall issues of magazines and catalogues in 1996 and 1997. SAS PC was used to analyze materials and finally priniciple component analysis the analysis by quantification theory 1. The results of the study were as follows. The most important images of clothes were fashion dignity activation and simplicity. In the relationship between the main image and item factor, one-piece jumper half-coat culotte skirt pantaloons and slim pants had an important effect on the fashion image while two-piece jacket, blouse, straight pants had an effect on the dignity image and three-pice, T-shirt, shirt-vest pantaloons normal pants culoote skirt and gather skirt strengthen active image. In the relationship between the main image and silhuette X-silhouette fitting upper and lower clothes upper clothes having waist line or hip bone length and mini-skirt were the factors that raisen fashion image. And in the A-, X-, Y-silhouette having normal fit upper clothes below the knee length skirt and the upper clothes below the hip line were main factors in dignity image. And H-silhouette big size sleeves mini-skirt the upper clothes below hip line were the factors that strengthened the active image. In the relationship between fashion image and detailed factors roll stand and sports collar set-in and shirt sleeves having 5-rate and long sleeves strengthened fashion image. And flat tailored collar boat and high nceckline and bow detail set-i sleeve had an important effect on the dignity image. And shirt collar boat and V-neckline shirt dolman and 7-rate sleeves were the factors that raise active image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.702-712
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.78-92
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• 2003

The upper-body characteristics of the right-handed and the left-handed are examined and compared through 1-dimensional measurement and 2-dimensional measurement. The results were as follows: 1. According to 1-dimensional measurement results, the clearest differences were seen in girth items rather than height or length items. In particular, hand girth, lower arm girth, and upper arm girth were bigger on the left side in the left-handed group and the right side in the right-handed group. This is thought to be relevant to the arm muscles frequently used. 2. According to 2-dimensional measurement results, significant differences appeared in the females of the left-handed group: shoulder point among width items. In the right-handed group, some differences of significance were shown in females (shoulder point, rear armpit point, and B.P. point among width items) and males (front neck point among extreme vertical distance items). In summary, the body type characteristics of the left-handed and the right-handed reveal great differences in the items related to arm length and arm girth. In other words, the sleeve and shoulder patterns production based on the right-handed don't rightly reflect the somatotype characteristics of the left-handed. In addition, in the cases of athletes, laborers, and the disabled who frequently use particular muscles or parts of the body, this sort of research in the patterns is consistently needed in order to reflect the size differences in girth items in upper body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1190-1201
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• 2008

The objective of this study is to compare and analyze middle and high school boys' and girls' uniform wearing conditions. The survey was conducted online and data were obtained from 907 middle and high school boys and girls. The results of this study are as follows. First, most boys and girls did not know their body sizes other than their height and weight. Second, when purchasing the school uniforms, over 70% of the boys and girls chose to try on the uniforms before their purchase and over 60% of the boys and girls had trouble selecting their sizes just by reading the labels. Third, both boys and girls considered the fit as the most important factor. When purchasing jackets, both middle and high school boys considered the shoulder width as most important. Middle school girls considered the jacket and sleeve length as most important, whereas high school girls considered the shoulder width, waist, and bust as most important. When purchasing skirts or slacks, waist girth was considered as most important. Fourth, boys repurchased more school uniforms than girls. Boys have outgrown their uniforms usually in the length categories, whereas girls have outgrown in the girth categories. Fifth, more girls(72.7%) modified their uniforms than the boys(56.8%). Boys usually bought bigger uniforms, modified them to fit and when they grow out of their uniforms they planned to modify their uniforms again whereas girls modified their uniforms to follow the trend. Sixth, the online shopping mall survey has revealed that both boys and girls liked the idea of 3D model that reflect their own body shapes, but they had low preference to purchase school uniforms online. Online purchase has been more attractive to the boys than to the girls, while the way of fashioning uniforms has been more attractive to the girls than to the boys.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1092-1101
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the size of ready-made clothing for elderly women and to evaluate their fit according to body type. Subjects were 33 women aged 60 and older, and they were classified by stature and drop index. The size of clothing which manufactured by four apparel brands were measured and compared with body size, and the size designation of four brands was compared. The questionnaire was carried out to subjects, and the size recognition and dissatisfaction with ready-made clothing were analyzed. The fitting test were carried out, and the subjects evaluated the fit of jackets and slacks of four brands. In the result of questionnaire, we found that subjects had little recognition about their clothing size. Subjects responded that they often felt dissatisfaction in their jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, bust girth, slacks, and waist girth. We found that each apparel brands had different sizing system and that even if the size designation of label was same, the clothing size was quite different. So the elderly women who didn't have so much knowledge about their own clothing size had a tendency to confuse with choosing proper clothing for themselves. In the wearer's evaluation, the significant difference in the degree of unsatisfaction were certified in several body parts according to wearer's body type. Especially, the degree of unsatisfaction in the case of subjects of having very small stature or very small hip was higher than other body types. From the result, we certified that it was necessary to consider the characteristics of each body type to increase the satisfaction of elderly women with clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.157-167
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• 2015

This study was initiated to understand design and detail characteristics of coats that targeted new senior women by analyzing shape, color, fabric and detail. For the new senior, youthful appearance has more appeal than products that represent elder's style. Among, the coat can be effectively utilized as a trendy fashion item that targets seniors since it is more useful to hide figures than pants, blouses or jackets. The objectives of this research were to: First, examine design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Second, understand design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Third, analyze the relationship between the design of collars and details according to type of new senior women's coat. Photographs collected were categorized according to type of coat. Three types of coat (balmacaan, redingote and trench) were chosen to analyze with the highest frequency. The results of analyzing shape, length, color and fabric of the products made in domestic and foreign brands were similar; however, the collar and way of fastening showed significant results that required specific analysis since the design elements were related to maincoat characteristics in protecting against the cold. The depth of the V-zone can change without change of collar width and design changes in V-zone that influence the coat image that lead to changes in sleeve type and length (or fastening and closing position) method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2021

This study attempted to develop winter jackets and pants patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school boy avatars having various body shapes. Jacket and pants pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on the results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed according to body shape. Jackets were assessed using 25 factors, while pants were assessed using 19. Then, correlations between the jackets and pants were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & tuck position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on jacket patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories, except for fit and shape at the front bottom, sleeve length on the side, and the center back line. The virtual wear assessment on the pants patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories, except for pants length. In jackets, a significant influence was observed around the shoulders and waist in Type 1 and around the belly in Type 2. On the contrary, for pants, a significant influence was found around the hip and waist in Type 1 and around back crotch in Type 2. Therefore, they should be considered when making of jackets and pants. The above results suggested that jacket and pants patterns should vary depending on body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for middle school girls and school uniforms by body shape.