• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.826-841
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• 1995

This study is concerned with the functional utility of movement in sleeve from an ergonomic viewpoint. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are. 1. The expansion rate of upper extremity was higher in length than in circumference mesurements. The amounts of expansion were, especially high (more than 60mm) for inner arm length, axillary arm circumference, and outer arm length. Therefore, a lot of ease is necessary for these parts. On the other hand, armhole circumference, forearm circumference, and wrist circumference had low rates of expansion. The sleeve cap length was also contracted in all motions. 2. The expansion rate and the range of expansion and contraction were higher in the upper arm than in the forearm. The main points of expansion were the axillary and elbow parts. The segment of maximum expansi (rate of 44.8%) was Iii of axillary parts. As the body surface expands mainly in some segments, it is desirable to allow ease to the main segments of expansion. 3. In a basic sleeve, necessary ease was lacking in the measurements for outer arm length and axillary arm circumference, while it was too large in armhole circumference, forearm circumference, wrist circumference, and sleeve cap length. Therefore, a basic sleeve is inadequate as a functional sleeve for hard work in point of functional utility of movement. Wider application of these findings would lead to an improvement in the comfort of workers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.641-650
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• 2008

In this study, seven models with distinctly different body types were researched and explanatory variables were reviewed. Review was done by using body measurements and the measurements of the appropriate bodice patterns in 1D, 2D, and 3D measurement methods in order to review the pattern making system and the equations for calculating the dimensions of the sleeve caps, which are readily available. Data on human bodies, which can be the criteria for each body part required for the new system for making sleeve cap part, were selected considering conditions such as items with a significantly high contribution rate from the results of regression analysis and the easiness of measurement. As a result of research, an explanatory variable required for the system for making sleeve caps with high general use was extracted. All items with the exception of the waist circumference and upper arm circumference were about the measurement of the form of human bodies, which were newly set in this study. As a result of this study, the equations for calculating the dimensions of each part of the sleeve caps showed distinct differences in comparison to the conventional system of construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1181-1189
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• 2009

This research analyzes the relationship between the height of the sleeve cap and the mobility of arm movement. Ten Korean women participated as subjects. For test clothes, the AH/4+3, AH/4+1, and AH/4-1 height of the sleeve cap were varied. The sleeve circumference was adjusted according to the variation of the height of the sleeve cap. To analyze test clothing objectively, the range-of-motion of two selected movements (Arm Adduction/Abduction and Arm Flexion/Extension) was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, a wearer acceptability rating was examined for acceptance by the subject. Anova and Duncan's multiple range tests are used for statistical analysis. According to the results, the mobility of test clothing 2 and 3 improved 14.9% and 27.7% in Arm Adduction/Abduction, and 12.7% and 31.9% in Arm Flexion/Extension compared to the test clothing 1.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.113-125
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• 2021

This study aimed to develop a new Hanbok Jeogori prototype based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Jeogori. This study was conducted based on K-patterns selected as excellent patterns in prior research and utilized the SPSS 27.0 program for analysis of appearance evaluation. As a result of the first appearance evaluation and garment pressure evaluation, the shoulder area was required to be modified, so the shoulder end point was moved within 1cm to rearrange the armhole line. Modification of sleeve length and circumference was also required, reducing sleeve length by 1.5cm and sleeve circumference by 0.5cm at both ends. As a result of the second evaluation, the length of Jeogori, hem circumference, and sleeve length were required, reducing the length of the front and back Jeogori by 1 cm and reducing the sleeve length by 1cm. The hem circumference was reduced by 0.2cm each in the princess line, which was highly evaluated in the final evaluation. In future research, it is thought that pattern studies by material, length, and age should be conducted and corrections should be derived through actual wear experiments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.696-710
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• 2023

This study investigated the problems of Korean female combat uniforms and collected primary data for developing new combat uniforms with improved functionality. We analyzed fit and motion suitability by administering a questionnaire evaluating the current uniforms to 20 Korean female soldiers. The evaluation of fit suitability found that satisfaction with the combat uniforms was generally high. However, short sleeve length, large wrist circumference, small hip circumference, large ankle circumference, and low crotch height were discomfort factors. In the evaluation of motion suitability, dissatisfaction was found with the sleeve circumference, elbow circumference, armhole circumference, knee crease and crotch height, and back waist height during motion. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a more segmented size system that suits the physique of current female soldiers and to devise appropriate solutions for improving motion suitability. This study is meaningful for its evaluation of the current combat uniform of female soldiers, and it is expected to serve as a reference for the future development of military combat uniforms for this group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.930-942
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• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.