• Title/Summary/Keyword: Sleeve

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A Study of Costumes lllustrated in the Ten folding screens on Queen Myong-hun's 70th Birthday Celebration(헌종왕후 칠순 진찬도병) and Described in the Prospectus of the Celebration Ceremony(신축진 찬의궤) (헌종왕후 칠순 신찬 10곡도병과 신축신찬의궤에 나타난 복식연구)

  • 유송옥
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.32
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    • pp.31-43
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    • 1997
  • The costumes on a royal ceremony and the changes thereafter during the Korea Empire(1897-1910) have been elucidated through the review on the paintings on Queen Myong-Hun's 70th birthday celebration and the prospectus of the ceremony. Queen Myong-Hyn wore ceremonial gown in deep blue with 51 embroidered phoenix on it. The deep blue color the royal color in the Korea Empire replaced former red color. Go-jong wore violet crown and ceremonial suit in gold color. Twenty one kinds of court dance were offered during the celebration ceremony. Costumes therein appear to have an order according to the role ofdancers. most female dancers(in 17 performances not else-where specified) wore a rather common cos-tume-flower cap outer silk garent in green hand veils in 5 colors silk skirt in red) embroidered silk belt in red and shoes in green. In Sun-you-ak two female lead dancers were red hat decorated with tiger whisker deep blue outer garment wide red belt silk boots in black bow and arrows on back and a sword and a whip in hands. In Choonaang-jon a fe-male solo dancer wore a silk outer garment in yellow silk skirt in red green lorum embroidered silk belt in red wrist band of gold embroidered red silk and 5 color hand veils. In Yon-wha-dae two young girl dancers wore lotus-form crown green outer garment wide pants in red silk red silk skirt red silk belt hand veils in jade color and silk shoes in deep red. In Moo-go 4 female dancers each wore long waist coat in blue red white and warm light green in addition to the above-mentioned common costume. In Gumkee-moo 4 female dancers wore hatlike wool helmet outer garment with narrow sleeve long silk waist coat in blue combat belt in deep blue silk and dance swords in both hands. In Youk-wha-dae 6 female dancers each wore a long waist cost in red deep blue violet pale pink green and jade color. Green color of outer garment in the above-mentioned common costume of female dancers appears intersting. Although the color was shown as yellow in the screen paintings actually it was green as evidenced by the prospectus of the celeebration ceremony.

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Benefit·Cost Analysis of Combine Method Using Hollow Precast Concrete Column (중공 PC기둥 복합공법의 편익-비용 분석)

  • Kim, Jae-Yeob;Park, Byeong-Hun;Lee, Ung-Kyun
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Building Construction
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.429-436
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    • 2016
  • Because of the shortage of construction workers due to The rising labor costs and an aging labor force, construction time has been extended. As a solution, The construction time of high-rise buildings can be reduced by adopting precast concrete construction methods. Most relevant studies have focused on the development and structural analysis of such methods and not on their construction management. Therefore, this study focused on the construction management of the hollow precast concrete column (HPC) method. The objective of this study was to evaluate the performance of HPC formulations through the analytic hierarchy process and benefit-cost analysis. After a gap analysis of the available literature and expert interviews, the evaluation criteria were selected. A questionnaire survey was administered to professionals with ample experience in precast concrete construction for the pair-wise evaluation of the benefit and costs of the HPC method. The results show that the benefits of the HPC method outweighed its costs. Therefore, the HPC method is a suitable substitute for the half-slab method.

The Actual Wearing Conditions and Preferred Design of Tailored Jackets for Obese Women in Their 20s and 30s (20~30대 비만여성의 테일러드 재킷 착용실태 및 선호디자인)

  • Oh, Young-Soon;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.9
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    • pp.1479-1490
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    • 2010
  • This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

A Study on Women's Wear Manufacturing Industries (II) - Automation of the Facilities and Ratio of Impaired goods - (숙녀복(淑女服) 봉제업계(縫製業界) 실태(實態) 연구(硏究) (II) - 생산설비(生産設備) 자동화(自動化)와 생산제품(生産製品) 불량수준(不良水準) -)

  • Uh, Mi-Kyung;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.46-54
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to understand women's wear manufacturing industries. First, the study was to investigate the present production systems and how much the automatic facility are by comparing them. This study enhanced more efficient, stable, and suitable work line. This intern will direct the way in which automatic facilities will be created. Second, through this study on the general character of the inspectors, the ratio of impaired goods, and the reasons for unsatisfactory goods, I intended to find out a way to decrease the impaired goods and to produce competitive and high quality goods. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. The result of the research on the automatic industrial facilities shows that the majority of the factories (77.4%) are 40% below the automatic facility rate. The reasons for this according to order are that was a deficit in money, no reason for expensive machines, and lack of the technique and the number of workers required to handle the machines. 2. At this time, the most required equipments are shown according to its importance; automatic sewing machine, automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine, and finishing & pressing machine. So in the women's wear manufacturing industries, they think that they need more automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine in the cutting field rather than high price automatic machine in the sewing field such as pattern former, pocket welting, automatic sleeve connecting machine and automatic label connecting machine. 3. The result of the research in the goods quality shows that the average impaired rate is 12.7% at the first inspection. In addition the average rate for complete impaired rate is 1.52%. The line system shows that it has a impaired rate that is double the rate of the pair system. Because of this, the industries plan to combine the line system and pair system to create an improved and suitable production system which can boost the quality and productivity of the goods. 4. The fabric is the main point of the impaired goods. The factors of the impaired goods in manufacturing are the lack of mental abilities of the worker, impaired fabrics and a lack of cooperation in the working system. Furthermore, there is a lack of technique for new material. 5. To prohibit impaired goods in manufacturing, there need to be a way to educate the workers and to enhance the workers' mind on the productive goods. Also there need to increase in the investments of automatic production machines. Finally there need to be a standardized working line. Therefore, there need to be an improvement on the management of the production of goods, the development of technique and an increase in the education for the workers, with this there will be a decrease in impaired goods, and an increase in better quality of goods to enforce the domestic apparel industries.

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A Study on the Common Features of Western Clothing Style and the Style of Korean clothing - Focusing on the Three Kingdom and Unified Shilla era - (우리 나라 복식(服飾)과 서역복식간(西域服飾間)의 공통성(共通性)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 삼국시대(三國時代), 통일신라시대( 統一新羅時代)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Jeun, Jee-Eun;Shim, Hwa-Jin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.4
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    • pp.127-143
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    • 2001
  • This thesis looks into the characteristics and compares the clothing styles between the Three Kingdom to the Unified Shilla era. The purpose of this study is to see what common themes exists between the foundation of Korean clothing and how it has evolved and through see to what extent the Chinese influence has been to Korean clothing culture. Also by explaining the originality and creativity of Korean clothing, we will be able to make clear the status of Korean culture. These findings include the following; 1. The Korean strait line Gik-ryong Kyo-im can also be found at the Gochang region in the west. 2. The Ban-ryong-ui, worn by the aristocrats of the Three kingdom and Unified Shilla era, began to appear from the nobles from the Nam-Buk cho(South-north era). This combined with a Bokdu(headwear) became a part of casual dress wear. 3. Go(pants) became a traditional part of clothing for Unified Shilla and the west. 4. Ban-bi and Bae-dang, all forms of Bansu-ui ( short sleeve), came from Chinas Kucha and Hotan and came to Korea. 5. Chinas Pae-baek and Pae-za (Shawl) which is the same as Unified Shillas Peo was also to be found to have come from the west. 6. The way a different color line was added to clothing both can be found in Korean and western clothing. Similarities to material used are; First, expensive wool was used and mostly originated from the west. From far away Rome came the O-saek-gae (Five-color wool). Secondly, Kong-gak me (peacock feather) and Bi-chi mo were all originated from the west. Third, Sil-sil is stated in the Sam-kuk Sa-ki (Three Kingdom records) as being prohibited to be worn by Jin-gol women (Highest nobility during Shilla era) as headwear or comb (pin) or as a comb(pin) for yuk-doo poom ( 6th class nobility) women. Suggesting that it existed and other sources tell us that it came from Tashkent region of Russia and was a jewelry of some sort. From what we have seen above, we can see the similarities between Korean and western clothing cultures and that these interactions not only occurred with China but with many other nations. We can see that our ancestors were creative and original that when importing foreign cultures that they transformed them into a Korean style. That these foreign cultures were transformed into our own style is good evidence to these facts.

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A Study of the Physical Properties of Weft Knit Fabrics (위편조직(緯編組織)의 물성(物性)에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, In-Suk;Lee, Soon-Hong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.2 no.4
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    • pp.93-101
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    • 1998
  • Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

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Ultrastructure of Blacktip Grouper, Epinephelus fasciatus Spermatozoa (홍바리, Epinephelus fasciatus 정자의 미세구조)

  • Kim, Seong-Hoon;Lee, Chi-Hoon;Song, Young-Bo;Ju, Hea-Sung;Kim, Hyung-Bae;Lee, Young-Don
    • Applied Microscopy
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    • v.42 no.2
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    • pp.61-66
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    • 2012
  • Ultrastructural characteristics of blacktip grouper, Epinephelus fasciatus spermatozoa were investigated using transmission and scanning electron microscopy. The spermatozoa of E. fasciatus consisted of a spherical head part, a midpiece with cytoplasmic canal entrance and a flagellum with lateral fins. Internal ultrastructurally, the nucleus contains high electron dense chromatin having granular particles and has no acrosome. The centriolar complex lies outside of the nuclear fossa and it is connected by the osmophilic filaments. Also the osmophilic filaments connect between the centriolar complex and the nuclear membrane. The midpiece contains eight to nine spherical mitochondria, cytoplasmic canal and necklaces. The flagellum has a typical 9+2 axonemal structure. The lateral fins contain vesicles and a typical 9+2 axonemal structure. Consequently this study contributes to comparative grouper spermatology and provide useful systematic taxonomic characters.

A STUDY OF THE ANTI-ROTATING INNER POST SCREW SYSTEM AS A MEANS OF PREVENTING ABUTMENT SCREW LOOSENING (회전 방지용 Post Screw 시스템의 임플랜트 지대나사풀림 방지효과에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Jong-Hui;Lim Ju-Hwan;Cho In-Ho;Lee Joon-Seok
    • The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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    • v.43 no.5
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    • pp.671-683
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    • 2005
  • Statement of problem: The most commonly reported problem associated with dental implant restoration is the loosening of the screws. Purpose: This study compared the efficacy of an implant system incorporating an anti-rotational locking sleeve(Anti-Rotating Inner Post Screw System(ARIPS-system)) with other, traditional implant systems as a means of minimizing vibration loosening. Materials and methods: Three implant systems were examined; the conventional external hex type, the ARIPS-system, and the internal taper type implant system 30 specimens(10 samples per group)were fabricated and each abutment screw was secured to the implant future with 32Ncm of torque force and loosening torque was measured using a Torque Gauge. The procedure was repeated 3 times, recording initial loosening torque each time. The re-tightened abutment screw was subjected to a cyclic load having a maximum forte of 200N and minimum of 20N at 2Hz over a period of 12,600 cycles. after which the loosening torque was measured. Measured values were calaulated for statistical analysis. Analysis of measured value was performed by 3 methods: (i) as a percentage average of the initial 3 loosening-torque values(initial loosening value) to the tightening torque of 32Ncm, (ii) as a percentage of the loosening torque value after a load of 200N(experimental value) to the initial loosening value, and (iii) as a percentage of the experimental value to the 32Ncm of tightening torque. The analyses shows the amount of initial loosening at the screw, loosening by repetitive load and the the final loosening value. Results: The results of this study were as follows (1) Percentage of initial loosening value to tightening-torque was increased in order of external hex, ARIPS-system and internal taper and all values between each groups showed statistical significance (p<0.05). (2) Percentage of experimental value to initial loosening value was increased in order of external hex, ARIPS-system and internal taper. Value of internal taper showed significant difference with those of external hex and ARIPS-system (p<0.05). (3) Percentage of experimental value to tightening torque was increased in order of external hex, ARIPS-system and internal taper and all values between each groups showed statistical significance (p<0.05). Conclusion: The results of the analysis of the final loosening level value, which are closely correlated to clinical use, show that the ARIPS-system can be a useful means of minimizing abutment screw loosening when compared to the external hex type system. Although further clinical studies need to be made, the ARIPS-system should be considered to maximize the long-term success of the implant prosthesis.

Self-Expandable metallic Stent in Benign Tracheobronchial Stenosis (양성기관지 협착증 환자에서 팽창성 금속성 스텐트의 사용경험)

  • Shin, Dong-Ho;Park, Sung-Soo;Lee, Jung-Hee;Jeon, Seok-Chol;Chung, Won-Sang;Kim, Kung-Hun
    • Tuberculosis and Respiratory Diseases
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    • v.39 no.4
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    • pp.318-324
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    • 1992
  • Acquired tracheobronchial stenosis has resulted from vehicular accidents, prolonged tracheal intubation, sleeve resection, tuberculosis and sarcodosis. Various modalities of therapy for the relief of such stenosis included surgery, cryotherapy, laser photoresection, and sometimes balloon dilatation. Several recent reports have described the use of self-expandable metal stents for the dilatation of stenotic areas in the tracheobronchial tree. Three patients of benign acquired tracheobronchial stenosis were treated with self-expandable metal stents, who had shown little response to several times of balloon dilatations; One patient had a tracheal stenosis caused by intubation, one a right main bronchial stenosis developed after reconstructive surgery of traumatic bronchial rupture, and the other a left main bronchial stenosis caused by longstanding endobronchial tuberculosis. We found that the using stent in benign acquired tracheobronchial stenosis can be effectively performed with alleviation of clinical symptoms and lung function. And even in longstanding localized stenosis of main bronchus without distal bronchial destruction, lung perfusion also improved.

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- The Review of the Collar Consideration of G go-ri to Improve Drafting Method - (제도법 개선을 위한 저고리 깃 구성의 재고찰)

  • 정옥임
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.34 no.4
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    • pp.249-263
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    • 1996
  • According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.

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