• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.305-313
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• 2008

This subject investigated visual evaluation of preference and fitness level of set-in sleeve in sleeve types(form)and studied suitable sleeve type at silhouette and targeted female students in twenties. The results of study were as follows: 1. Visual evaluation factors in set-in sleeve of sleeve types were selected 6 factors; the 1st factor is decorativeness, the 2nd factor is attractiveness, the 3rd factor was activeness, the 4th factor was feminine, the 5th factor was charming and 6th factor was a figural element. Decorativeness and attractiveness factors in visual evaluation of sleeve types were the most important level. 2. The visual evaluation differences of sleeve types in set-in sleeve were as follows; in the 1st factor, S and P2 were the most decorative sleeve type. in the 2nd factor, S, P2 and P3 are the most attractive sleeve type. in the 3rd factor, B and P3 were the most active sleeve type. in the 4th factor, L was the most feminine sleeve type. in the 5th factor, P1, L and P3 were charming sleeve type. in the 6th factor, P3 was evaluated that it shows narrowened shoulder sleeve types. 3. The analysis result of preference and wearing level in each sleeve types were as follows. 20's female university students like to wear S, P1, P2 and P3 sleeve types and the most favorite sleeve types are S, P2 and P3. 4. The analysis result of silhouette set-in sleeve in sleeve types; S, B and P2 in H-type silhouette, P2, S and P1 in A-type silhouette, B and P3 in O-type silhouette, L and P3 in X-types silhouette were show the most suitable sleeve types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2015

This study analyzes the form of sleeve heads, which is an important internal element that affects the appearance of jacket sleeves. It characterized sleeve head forms by investigating angles, materials, and a combination of formations for 50 sleeve heads. It conducted an appearance evaluation by comparing and analyzing the results. This paper develops a sleeve head appropriately for sleeve construction. The study results are as follows. First, the product was divided into three parts: based on, force receiving, and sleeve cap parts. There were four types of man's sleeve head: straight, arc, and curve A and B types. The woman's sleeve head had two types: straight and curve B type. Second, the feature of each type of sleeve head was analyzed. A straight type emphasized the based on part. An arc type highlighted the force receiving part while the based on part decreased. The sleeve cap part, force receiving part, and based on part were emphasized in the arc type sleeve head. Third, as a result of the appearance evaluation, each type was rank as straight type < arc type ${\leq}$ curve A < curve B. The straight type did not get positive results as it had extra ease when the sleeve head was attached to a Jacket Sleeve. The arc type was evaluated poorly due to an inappropriate sleeve cap composition. The curve type received an excellent overall outcome as it fit into the sleeve cap part well and highlighted the force receiving part in order to minimize front and back wrinkles. Therefore, the curve type made the resemblance of the jacket appearance perfect and closest to the sleeve pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.78-94
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• 2012

This study devised and drew custom sleeve patterns by using a regression equation with the data from 7 models along with the sleeve that was slightly modified to make the general-purpose sleeve pattern. To devise a general-purpose sleeve pattern, the sleeve pattern was drawn as an object for comparison by applying the Bunka drafting system (sleeve pattern by the Bunka drafting system) to the basic upper garment. Actual sleeves, made by using the three types of patterns above, were created and tested by models. Next, 30 panel members participated in a sight test of the compatibility of the sleeves to examine the validity of the sleeve drafting method acquired using the regression equation. The test proved that the custom sleeve pattern and the general-purpose sleeve pattern were more suitable for the characteristics of arm structures. Thus, the new sleeve-cap part drafting method using the regression equation was shown to have validity. As a result, since a very significant correlation was obtained for the body measurement figures and the basic pattern of the adequate basic pattern of the sleeves, this study concludes that it is possible to come up with primary data that can be widely used by increasing the number of subjects.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.189-198
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• 2012

This study aim was to understand the effects of the change of the sleeve cap height on the sleeve cap line and the sleeve appearance by making nine different sleeve cap height patterns. When a subject sews the virtual and real garments with this, it provides data base through which she can make the suitable sleeve by conducting a comparative analysis of the appearance and cross-sectional diagram and grasping the relation between the sleeve cap line ease and the shape of the sleeve. As a result of the analysis of the image of 3D virtual garment, the shape of the armscye and the position of the bust line and sleeve baseline, the sleeve cap height and the sewing ease of the sleeve cap line affect on the shape of the sleeve and the armscye. Although the real garment is slightly different from the virtual garment they have shown similar tendency. Therefore, if the 3D virtual clothing system is used appropriately, it is possible to expect various study results in the apparel field without making real garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2001

In this study, both kinds of materials, that is, leather and woolen fabrics, which have similar thickness, have been adopted. To determine proper length of ease, not only sleeve cap height but also sleeve width has been adjusted mainly based on 5cm length of the ease, which follows maximum sleeve cap height, and then different length of ease, for example, 4cm, 3cm, 2cm and 1cm of ease, have been made. As a result, eighteen kinds in total of sleeves have been made: In other words, each nine kinds of both leather and woolen fabrics have different ease lengths. In addition, each sleeve has been inspected visually and functionally. Following conclusion has been gotten based on outcome of the study: 1. Proper ease length for manufacture of leather garment is said to be 1∼2 cm. As a result, ease length with higher sleeve cap height shall be 1∼2cm, while the length with lower sleeve cap height shall be 1cm or less. 2. Wider sleeve width has better function. Considering relations with sleeve cap height, sleeve width shall exceed +4cm of bicep line. 3. to satisfy a variety of those conditions while manufacturing leather garment, sleeve cap height, which is used for the manufacture of full dress and street wear garment, To lessen the ease length, body A.H shall be relatively loose under the arms, or pad shall be supplemented on the shoulder, so that the difference had better be lessened to solve such problems.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-11
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• 1986

The subject, in the blouses that sleeve caps and sleeve lengthes are different from, did sensory test by right arm movement and both arms movement. This sensory test which is used in fabric good, is Shef's. RESULTS : 1) The ease of bust size is very significant by cap height, at 5%, 1% level by sleeve length. 2) The front area of arm hole is affected by cap height, sleeve length movements more than the back and the under area of arm hole are 3) Sleeve width is affected by cap height, sleeve length both arms movement. That is, they should be designed according to the use because they affect the ease of blouse very much. Especially bust size should be considered with sleeve pattern because the ease bust becomes different with sleeve pattern.